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Motor compartment at min 2:10


Drivetrain from min 9:40 onwards


Conclusion: Nothing spectacular revolutionary new under the sun. 

I wonder what brand this blue grease might be the mechanic used for the new variator pins and the clutch needle bearings...?

A few yrs ago we had a LIKE200i owner find his ground cable loose as well.
Usually factory shot nuts, bolts and screws are crazy tight.
Stig

Yes , that was probably me. It happened during the break in period within the first two weeks of ownership in July 2014 if I remember correctly. Took the scooter for a longer ride outside of town and stopped at a gas station. Afterwards the scooter wouldn´t start again, just clicking noise from solenoid.
At first I got upset and angry because I trhought that I needed to be towed, but then shortly after I calmed down again and started to inspect the scooter around the starter and found that loose hanging ground cable from the starter. Bolt got loose and lost enroute. I just made contact manually to restart and got the bolt replaced and fixed with screwlock by the dealer the next days. Since then never had an issue again, except this more or less regularily grunting noise and hesitation at first start when engine is cold. But I am living with it now since 2014 and.

Solenoids mostly only do go bad when used with weak batteries over a period of time (because of sizzle).
That´s why I use the better, stronger and lighter LiFePo Battery. Mine has been in there now for 4 years without any problems and absolutely no maintanance needed. Starts even great after 3 month of winterbreak period.

@Snoop...
So, to get a glassclear confirmation on that topic: Does your answer mean that these legshield LEDs are completely enlighted from top to bottom with white LEDs only? And therefore without the potential option of using them also als turning light LEDs (yellow/orange LEDs) like the european models?

here in this austrian testrun video of the standard Like II 125 (e.g. @ min. 5:29) you can clearly see how these turning light leds are designed and constructed and how they work (with white and yellow leds):



It´s cool man. 

Of course Tom, I would like to have that little brake reservoir service lid....
I have already thought about drilling and cutting out a service hole myself, but haven´t found a good solution for it and for a selfmade lid afterwards so far.
And I don´t understand either why there is still no service lid on the new Like model.... patents issue? stupidity? ignorance? intentionally?

Stig´s concerns about a worn Kenda after "860" miles are legit.
My Kendas might have been good enough for 10.000 miles or even more.
I would love to see a picture of the thread of that "worn" tire.

What this genius state inspection "technician" eventually could have overlooked, is the fact, that the Kenda comes with no tread in the centerline right from the factory and brandnew...

Hey Tom, allright, then this was again a little misunderstanding from my side. In this case it´s for sure good to check for seized pins in the thread.
On the other hand, I use for these pins and threads either Copperpaste or "Loctite Never Seize" and with that kind of precaution, I have never had seized caliper pins on my vehicles for many many years. And I do not torque them like crazy. A common sense snug is just perfect for these pins.

And by the way: This is  - or at least should be - a standard service job at the shop for the first 300 or 500 miles check. My dealer at least did it back then.

But it´s for sure a good service job for heavy duty rain- and winterriders.

Thanks boo. I just tried to find some exploded views of these assembly parts for better understanding. But failed for the GT300i.

Anyway, I understand the most of what you are explaining. If I understood you right, your scooter does have TWO breather hoses. ONe goes directly into the drivetrain to the clutch (which is indeed strange) and the other one into the airfilter housing. Right?
Fortunately my scooter (Like 200i) does have only ONE breather hose coming from the rear axle gearbox and going directly into the airfilter housing.
And that´s most probably right that way and a good thing, because I want this blow by fumes hose opening be protected from water and dirt. The best place to achieve this imho, might be the airfilter housing. Doesn´t it? Don´t want to have water and dirt/sand in my gearbox.
Of course there might be a problem with excess gear oil in there when overfilling the gearbox. Hence overfilling should never be done. 
I always use(d) synth gear oil and never overfill(ed). And therefore never have and had the slightest problems, either with oilfoam , fume or excess oil itself. :-)

So, even if there was an overfilling going on and some oil came into the airfilter housing, it shouldn´t have a harmful effect on the drivetrain. In my case there is no connection from the gearbox to the drivetrain whatsoever.
The oil maybe could only drop down from the airfilter housing to the outside of the drivetrain housing doing no harm, except making a oily mess and dripping further to the ground. And the drivetrain housings should be connected via a rubber or paper gasket, so that no oil, water or dirt can get in there.

But I understand, that different vehicles might have different systems and solutions here, which I dont know yet and never have seen.