KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Like 50 2T => Topic started by: 245luigi on December 03, 2013, 02:37:19 AM
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Link to my discussion on the 70cc BBK install for the record
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=10244.0 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=10244.0)
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Additional link for the record: http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=6960.0 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=6960.0)
BBK install on people, alot of the images and theory apply to what you will see on the Like50 2t
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In effort to reduce future Like50 BBK installer headaches and so I remember, Im posting my most successful setup (however not final).
2012 Like 70 :) for SEA LEVEL
Assume stock unless otherwise noted
Malossi 70cc BBK (Malossi PN 319987)
Note: Did not install provided reeds, reeds are stock
Dell'Orto PHBG 19 AS (Malossi PN 1611028)
Note: Did not put hole in airbox as instructed
Kymco 20mm Intake Manifold
Naraku Sports Variator (Dont get this) using 10g rollers
1500 rpm contra spring
Tecnigas Next R Exhaust
General Notes:
The intake manifold spacer (stock or the larger version) for use between the carb and manifold is not needed. The Malossi carb kit comes with a paper gasket and screws too short to accomodate the spacer. Works just fine without it.
The oil pump outlet went to the intake manifold and the stock carb slide. Replace this line with a single hose from the oil pump outlet to the intake manifold as the PHBG AS does not have an oil inlet.
I have removed the airbox restriction between the airbox intlet hose and the actual airbox. I am talking about the inlet diameter collet reducer thingy majigger.
My carburetor has these items in it:
Idle Jet 42
Main Jet 96
Choke Jet 55
Atomizer DL262
4 Stroke Atomizer Bushing
W16 Needle
Slide #30
For the record, the idle jet is nice @ 42, my current idle is 1580 - 1640. I know my air screw is out 1 turn, no idea for speed screw. I believe WOT is a little lean but not much. The PHBG came with the above in the kit EXCEPT the MJ was 80.
Also for the record, the 4 stroke atomizer bushing works just fine on this 2T bike.
I am using 93 octane with Seafoam. I dont think the oil pump is gonna cut it so Im gonna either switch to premix or zip tie the oil pump to always open.
The bike feels much stronger than before, kinda like a rocketship between my legs :) :)
Top end is 50+ I have not GPS confirmed yet but I can tell you there's no more room for the needle to go on the speedo :)
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Wooo I have not logged in on here in a while. Mostly because life has gotten busy and I was pretty happy where my scoot was. I have been answering PMs though
Here is an update!
Very soon after this post I went up to 102 MJ just to be safe with the BBK. I have had that jet in for about a year now. I think I can go down. The bike still seems rich.
Yesterday I finally was able to install the Malossi upgear kit. I have not changed anything else in the CVT. So im still running the Naraku Sports Variator using 10g rollers and 1500 rpm contra spring, rest stock. I have a Malossi Var. and some stronger torque springs and fly springs in the closet. With the upgear kit I have found that there certainly was a trade off. I have lost the acceleration that the BBK initially provided but I am now between 500 - 700 rpm lower for a given speed compared to the stock gearing. My top speed is higher. This gearing is perfect for where my parents live (and where I'm doing the work to the bike) which is suburban country roads. I'm not quite sure if I have done the right thing for myself as I live in the city (Baltimore) where I have to stop every block and rarely get to hit top speed. We'll see if I miss that bottom end acceleration.
Is there a "rule of thumb" as to what modifications should happen to the CVT post upgear install? I would like to get my acceleration a bit better in the 0 - 30 mph range. Not looking to hop off the line before but to be honest the acceleration feels kinda like the stock restricted bike. Its a bit slow getting up to 30 mph then the power band hits and there is a nice accel. to abt 53 mph on a windy day. I noticed though when I come to a 90 deg turn, ill slow down, take the turn, and the bike takes so long to get back to speed. Im looking to fix that and I think ill be pretty happy with the mods.
Cheers!
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Missed you Lougi!
The bike sounds great!
Try going to stiffer fly springs (small clutch springs), and 2 gram lighter rollers.
This will get you closer to the pipe, and get you back some nice accell.
Your posting all the mods, and results are fantastic. That is what make this forum work. RESULTS, whether good or bad.
Keep us in the loop, and I hope life is treating you well Brother!
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Zombie
Good to hear from you!
I've taken a look at what parts I have on hand. Any recommendations would be awesome.
I have a malossi variator, a 2000 rpm torque spring, white malossi torque spring, (1500 rpm currently installed), and yellow white and black malossi clutch springs (stock springs are in currently)
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Slap in the Var, and the Black springs. That will get you almost on the pipe.
It will take some getting used to but when that clutch locks, it will be a rocket.
You're present rollers should be fine then.
IF it starts shifting too soon then the 2000.
I have a very similar set up in the ZX, and it's a frigging beast at 78cc's
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Thanks for the advice.
Mods will happen in about a month when the bike comes back to Bmore. Its currently riding the winter out at my parents house in the garage.
Im excited to get ride of that Naraku Variator...what a piece!
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Yeah Nrkaru /Naruka whatever is China crap with fancy paint.
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Finally got the bike back in Baltimore. Racingplanet say "Malossi racing clutch spring set for original clutches in 3 spring weights. black = light (touring) White = medium (sport) Yellow = hard (racing) harder springs are necessary when tuning work has been carried out. Clutch engages at higher revs for greater pull. Easy to swap over, but the clutch must be removed."
I just wanted to verify, Zombie, that I should swap my stock springs for the black. Touring sounds booooooooooooooring but I have no experience with clutch springs!
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Finally got the bike back in Baltimore. Racingplanet say "Malossi racing clutch spring set for original clutches in 3 spring weights. black = light (touring) White = medium (sport) Yellow = hard (racing) harder springs are necessary when tuning work has been carried out. Clutch engages at higher revs for greater pull. Easy to swap over, but the clutch must be removed."
I just wanted to verify, Zombie, that I should swap my stock springs for the black. Touring sounds booooooooooooooring but I have no experience with clutch springs!
With your list of parts, I would try yellow. Black would be basically stock stiffness if I had to guess.
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Here is an update on my setup, for my own record and to help others getting engine tuned.
Malossi BBK PN. 319987
Used everything except provided reeds, they don't fit. Running stock reeds and cage
PHBG 19 AS carb
52 Pilot Jet
1.75 turns on fuel screw
40 slide
W7 needle 4th notch from the top i.e. richest setting
92 Main jet
AU 262 atomizer
2T atomizer bushing
With this setup in the carb, I've seen engine temps up to 350 (CHT under spark plug). With W16 needle, top notch, and 88 main jet I saw engine temps up to 330, definitely drive-able with small rich spot
20mm intake
Malossi E8 air filter
https://www.treatland.tv/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=malossi-phbg-E8-filter-046199 (https://www.treatland.tv/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=malossi-phbg-E8-filter-046199)
Technigas Next-R Exhaust
Hope this helps!