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Hi Guys,

Have anybody replaced themselves the steering handles or just steering handles grips? My "non throttle" handle is extreamly worn out (heat wires exposed) and I need to replace it. The throttle grip is ok.

Is it possible to replace just the grips, or do I need to replace complete handle? Has anybody a manual for this / youtube video? Unfortunatelly Kymco's service manual says nothing about this procedure:(

Hello Lads and Gents,

I just recently bought my AK550 and I absolutely love it (I've been riding a DT300 for the last 8 years with over 25k miles on it).

My scoot is equiped with the aftermarket J Costa variator, and I knew it has specific characteristics (high revs etc). What I didn't expect (however I should have, as I test driven a few AKs at the dealer shop before buying) is that the AK clutch catches rather high (on mine first signs of clutch engageing comes at 4500 rpm). The above mix results it the fact, that starting from dead stop or even accelerating ie from 15 MPH or 30 MPH (doesnt matter) comes with the revs going up to 6-7k (even if accelerating very softly).

Just to make it clear, I love the acceleration and 7k at WOT is something completely normal, however, it would be really nice if delicate starting from a dead spot or delicate accelerating would come with 1-2k less rpm.

Now the question: how is the best way to do it (I am ok with jeopadizing the performance a little, as the scoot has more than enough acceleration for me in every speed range). Would you start with buying heavier sliders for the J Costa? My first thaught was just softer springs in the clutch, but that i noticed this one has not a simple centrifugal scooter clutch but wet multidisc, so it would be way more difficult if no impossible in modding it to engage at lower rpm.

Thanks for all the tips and thaughts.

Hello,

Its been a while since my last post (and a lot of new miles on my DT). I am facing for a while a strange proplem. In general I feel something there is something wrong with the charging / battery system, but no idea what and i dont want to replace parts that are ok.

First of all, my battery has something about 3-4 years, so its not brand new and is one of my main suspects. However, I have never faced problems with powering one the engine (even if a longer reving was needed), so it seems the battery should be ok. But to the point, when i ride with only the LED light on, everything is ok, however, after turning on the main beem after a few secongs the red battery charging light turns on on the dashboard. I have this problem quite for a while, but as where I leave it is ok to ride with the led lights only during the day, when i turned the main beems on (mainly while riding in denser traffic) and this battery light turned on, I just used to turn the lights off and after a few seconds so did the battery light.

Now just after a few seconds after turining on the main beems the battery light also goes on, and it keeps on (even if I turn all electrical equipment I can off). However, if i turn of the engine and on again, the red light doesnt turn on (until turining on the main light and then the history repeats). The bigger problem I noticed today, that with this red light on, and main beems on, my ABS does not work (looks like the voltage is to too low or something). However, if i turn the maing beems off (the red battery light still on) ABS works propperly.

Have anyone faced such an issue or have any ideas? My main suspects are: battery or voltage regulator. The connections should be ok as i celanned carefully all the electrical istalation and connections 4-5 months ago. Same, alternator should also be ok, as 2-3 months ago I had to replace (in Kymco shop) the CPS (crankshaft pos. sensor) as it was faulty and the part cames together with the stator wheel  (also new).

Peter

Hello guys. I am experiencing another annoying issue... When the engine is running, and espiecially after the revs reduce to idle i hear anoying clanking from the variator. Initially i thaught its something with the engine, but after removing the vario, there was no longer any worrisome noises.
When everything gets hot (after a 10-15 km ride with high speed, it tend to be less noise, however I can still hear it from time to time.

The belt has about 2 k milles on it. However the vario has over 10k milles.
Any ideas? Is the vario weared and should be repleaced or it might be something else?
For sure its not the rollers as i have Dr. Pulleys which are in perfect conditions.

Regards,
Peter

Hi,

Has anyone tried to disassembly Downtowns head lamp? I mean the front glued transparent plastic? What i need is to get to the reflector of the lenticular lamp.

The above is due to the fact, that in europe the lenticular lamp if used as low beam (high beam is the other, reflecotr lamp). As far as i know this is different than in the US version?

I ask this because i am afraid the reflectors behind the lens in my scoot are probably tarnished (the power and range of the light is quite poor, IMO of course) in comparison to standard projector lamps. The fact that i replaced standard halogen bulbs with HIDs didnt help a lot.

I will be thankfull for any advice, tips, fotos, etc.

Kind regards,
Peter

Hello, recently i observed a strange problem with my Downtown.

When i turn the key on the pre-check is done and the oil pressure (please do not misunderstand me - its not the red oil servie light) is on (this is normal and was always like this). When i turn on the engine, this light goes off and this is also perfectly normal. But than, when i turn on the lo beams, for a few secs. this oild pressure warning turns on and then it turn off again and does not light anymore (before another engine start).

Anyone faced such issue? Any sugesstions what migh this mean / should anything be done about it?

Peter