KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Xciting 250 => Topic started by: Forbes1964 on May 20, 2016, 05:29:30 AM
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Well... Breakdowns are becoming too regular. Because of rain, I did not ride by scooter to work today. But I Went on a 40 mile ride after work. Anyway, on my way home about 20 miles from home, I turned I to get gas. Looked down and the battery light had just come on. VERY shortly afterward, it stalled. Jumped it off, and it would run as long as I had the rpm's up high. But once it dropped anywhere near idle, the lights would dim and it would stall.
I suspect a bad stator. Just purchased battery on Monday . I will double check everything just to make sure.
If it's the Stator, I'm debating whether to try to tackle it myself vs pay the mechanic money I don't have. According to the manual, it seems straightforward.
How common are stator failures at 12000 miles? And is this something you all recommend that I tackle myself. If it were an automobile, I wouldn't hesitate. But it isn't.
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12000 miles is not that much for this scooter , thats like 20000 thousand km? Ive seen more than one with over 40000km on it with no proble.Indeed bad things come all together >:(
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12000 miles is not that much for this scooter , thats like 20000 thousand km? Ive seen more than one with over 40000km on it with no proble.Indeed bad things come all together >:(
Yes, getting discouraged. Hope this is not an indication of things to come.
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I did replace my stator. As a Back-Up, I now have a digital Voltmeter that plugs into any 12 VDC. Receptical. You can also use a Volt Ohm Meter, But you can pick-up the digital type for $10-15. Mine is on all the time now and it's an easy check. I'd do this first.
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I did replace my stator. As a Back-Up, I now have a digital Voltmeter that plugs into any 12 VDC. Receptical. You can also use a Volt Ohm Meter, But you can pick-up the digital type for $10-15. Mine is on all the time now and it's an easy check. I'd do this first.
I found a way to test the stator. The resistance was within specs. But the output a/c voltage was low. So I ordered one today. I went ahead and ordered it through my dealer, since there was not a big difference in price between that and the online stores.
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I replaced the stator. It now charges fine. I hope this is the last problem for a while. I didn't order the housing gasket. So I had to make one using gasket material. So far, so good.
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Not too many of us left who can make a replacement gasket! NOW, this would be a good time to boil all of what you did to get to the right conclusion of this problem. For instance, the path you took to get the solution without all the wrong sidetrips we all make. Another point you made was the stator tested within resistance specs but output voltage was low. Could the service manual have an error (or more)? :P Whatcha think?
Karl
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Not too many of us left who can make a replacement gasket! NOW, this would be a good time to boil all of what you did to get to the right conclusion of this problem. For instance, the path you took to get the solution without all the wrong sidetrips we all make. Another point you made was the stator tested within resistance specs but output voltage was low. Could the service manual have an error (or more)? :P Whatcha think?
Karl
I've noticed that it has SEVERAL glaring omissions. And that's an understatement.
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Don't mean to hijack anyone's thread but it seems the original author hasn't replied for quite some time, so I take the initiative hoping it might help someone save some $$ on gaskets.
As a kid I learned from my father how to make a gasket on your own. In certain areas with less heat you can use ordinary hammer paper. (thicker white paper for technical drawings 120-150g or so) elsewhere you'll need proper gasket material that can withstand heat better than paper.
Making a gasket for a cylinder base would be a bit more difficult this way but still doable. I've done it many times on smaller 2T engines. Making gaskets for removable deckings is much easier so I'll base my guide on that. Please note I can't take responsibility for your actions following this guide.
Once you have your decking off (and the old gasket material carefully removed in case it got stuck, (use wood/plastic to scrape off not to damage the aluminum surface)), cleaned you put a small amount of oil around the edges where the new gasket would go. Spread it with your finger evenly then on a flat surface put it on top of the gasket material and leave for a few seconds. If you do it right the oil will leave a perfect silhouette of where you need to cut.
Job done!
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That is genius, nushipwright! Exactly what I learned in the Navy from shipwrights and senior Machinist Mates!
Karl