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Downtown 300 / CELP codes
« on: October 22, 2023, 07:43:45 PM »
Does anyone know what code 66 represents? I ran the self diagnostics on the bike and it kicked out a '66'....I can't find that anywhere in my repair manual.
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2
Downtown 300 / Clutch Replacement " How Do You Know"
« on: October 19, 2023, 05:19:40 PM »
My local Kymco dealer has offered to sell me a NOS clutch replacement assy part # 2301A which is the full assembly minus the bell housing that has been sitting on his parts shelf for about 7 years and he's begging me to PLEASE buy it off his shelf..asking price, $275 out the door, seems like a fair deal to me.
My question is this: If the springs are broken inside the clutch housing will there be a rattling sound when you remove it and shake it? I have not received my new rollers yet from my buddy Jingyu in Taiwan but expect them any day now and was wondering since it's all apart, should I go ahead and invest the $275 and replace clutch assy while I have it all apart?
At the moment the clutch "looks" fine, it's tight, there are no noises when shaking it and I am not in tune with replacing a part that might never need it for the life of the bike. On the other hand, much like insurance and a good lawyer, sometimes it's better to have it and not need it rather than need it and not have it.
I guess I won't know clutch condition until I get it all re-assembled with the new belt and rollers and give it a whirl.
My question is this: If the springs are broken inside the clutch housing will there be a rattling sound when you remove it and shake it? I have not received my new rollers yet from my buddy Jingyu in Taiwan but expect them any day now and was wondering since it's all apart, should I go ahead and invest the $275 and replace clutch assy while I have it all apart?
At the moment the clutch "looks" fine, it's tight, there are no noises when shaking it and I am not in tune with replacing a part that might never need it for the life of the bike. On the other hand, much like insurance and a good lawyer, sometimes it's better to have it and not need it rather than need it and not have it.
I guess I won't know clutch condition until I get it all re-assembled with the new belt and rollers and give it a whirl.
3
Downtown 300 / belt size DOES MATTER!
« on: October 08, 2023, 09:05:12 PM »
Went to replace my belt today after yesterday's ride resulted in some late ride shuddering, and what I thought was a possible clutch problem due to the bike not wanting to behave at stop lights, it just wanted to keep going. I just checked that belt last weekend and it looked fine, but not now. Glad it didnt break on me and I got home, running a few red lights and stop signs..... 
Clutch looks good, no loose material or parts, shoes look ok, but the belt is missing about 7-10 teeth.
Thought I had 2 belts in reserve but when I went to install it there was a problem with the belt seating into the pulleys and had the hardest time getting variator plate back on. Then I remembered that these two belts came from a chinese supplier and like most stuff from there, not quite up to specs.
I believe the DT 300i requires a 24mm width but the ones from Hornet were 25mm.....makes all the difference, and when I went to ebay today to find a replacement, many are selling those replacement belts with the same 25mm widths....and claim its the right one! Have tried locating and sizing a Dayton and Gates brand but no cigar. Kymco OEM are almost double the price of generic but worth it if you cannot use the generic.
BEWARE! 25mm will not work! Wish we had a better supplier here in the states but we don't, Kymco USA is terrible about replacement parts. Fortunately I've become good friends with a supplier in Taiwan and though shipping takes a bit longer, I give him my part number, he gets me my part!
Clutch looks good, no loose material or parts, shoes look ok, but the belt is missing about 7-10 teeth.
Thought I had 2 belts in reserve but when I went to install it there was a problem with the belt seating into the pulleys and had the hardest time getting variator plate back on. Then I remembered that these two belts came from a chinese supplier and like most stuff from there, not quite up to specs.
I believe the DT 300i requires a 24mm width but the ones from Hornet were 25mm.....makes all the difference, and when I went to ebay today to find a replacement, many are selling those replacement belts with the same 25mm widths....and claim its the right one! Have tried locating and sizing a Dayton and Gates brand but no cigar. Kymco OEM are almost double the price of generic but worth it if you cannot use the generic.
BEWARE! 25mm will not work! Wish we had a better supplier here in the states but we don't, Kymco USA is terrible about replacement parts. Fortunately I've become good friends with a supplier in Taiwan and though shipping takes a bit longer, I give him my part number, he gets me my part!
4
Venox 250 / Kymco Spade stolen, found, need to replace ignition
« on: March 06, 2023, 05:56:02 PM »
My nephew purchased a 2019 Kymco Spade about a 5 months ago, had it all of a week while riding it back and forth to work at Discount Tire. Went outside after work one day and it was gone...stolen to be more precise. For some odd reason the dealer never told him it had a steering lock and he never knew he could lock it up to keep it from being stolen.
Well as luck would have it the Amarillo Police actually located it while out cruising. They knew only 2 Spades were listed in all of Amarillo and when attempting to pull over this particular Spade the offenders took off down an alley way, parked it and took off running, so we were able to get it back, though it had been repainted and a different ignition had been used and the original discarded.
My question.....will handle bar and steering assy need to be removed to access steering lock?
Thanks
Well as luck would have it the Amarillo Police actually located it while out cruising. They knew only 2 Spades were listed in all of Amarillo and when attempting to pull over this particular Spade the offenders took off down an alley way, parked it and took off running, so we were able to get it back, though it had been repainted and a different ignition had been used and the original discarded.
My question.....will handle bar and steering assy need to be removed to access steering lock?
Thanks
5
Downtown 300 / Bound to happen
« on: April 11, 2022, 01:39:21 PM »
Well after 60,000 miles my sweet baby has decided to leave me stranded by the side of the road. Today I did a full blown maintenance of the bike...oil and filter, tranny fluid, air filter replacement and valve adjustment. Got out on the road and it was performing better than ever....that should have been a red flag right there!
An hour into the ride she started cutting out and then she died. Would not restart immediately but after sitting for about 20 minutes started right up but would die after a minute or so. Managed to get it back home and this morning it started right up but died after 3 minutes and wouldnt start again. But an hour later started right up, but then again died after a minute or so. Sounds like a fuel problem to me but have no idea where to begin.
I know you'll read this Karl and I await your expertise!
Thank you!
An hour into the ride she started cutting out and then she died. Would not restart immediately but after sitting for about 20 minutes started right up but would die after a minute or so. Managed to get it back home and this morning it started right up but died after 3 minutes and wouldnt start again. But an hour later started right up, but then again died after a minute or so. Sounds like a fuel problem to me but have no idea where to begin.
I know you'll read this Karl and I await your expertise!
Thank you!
6
Downtown 300 / valve adjustmet
« on: March 28, 2022, 01:47:47 PM »
Ok...doing my first EVER valve adjustment on my 2013 DT300i with 65000 miles on it. Got up this morning and it was hard starting and once it started wouldn't stay idling. So two questions that that seem vague in my DT manual is that the "T" on the flywheel has a line next to it...do I line up the "T" or the line next to it with the cranckcase housing notch and the valve adjustment seems to be a misprint because .10mm seems WAY TOO MUCH since putting it there caused so much valve clatter. Any suggestions please?
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Downtown 300 / Speedo malfunction
« on: September 14, 2020, 03:20:22 PM »
Howdy Folks! So my speedo quit working last week. Both dials on tach and speedo still do their thing when key is on to start. Thinking it must be the front wheel speed sensor has gone bad, how I am not certain but because the needle still goes from zero to 110 at start up I do not anticipate the problem is in the instrument cluster. Found replacement speed sensor for about a 1/2 a C-note. Anyone have an alternate theory before I place order? Thanks......
BTW, after putting 50,000 miles on this kymco my wife allowed me to finally move up to either purchase a used FC600 Honda silverwing or a BMW C650GT. After trying both out and reading all the reviews I went with the BMW and man is that one awesome scooter....it is the cream of the crop when it comes to scooters. I gave the nod to the BMW because Kymco provides the power for the Beemer and since my DT300 has been so dependable I went with what I knew, even though the Honda is also a great bike, the BMW just feels so much better.
BTW, after putting 50,000 miles on this kymco my wife allowed me to finally move up to either purchase a used FC600 Honda silverwing or a BMW C650GT. After trying both out and reading all the reviews I went with the BMW and man is that one awesome scooter....it is the cream of the crop when it comes to scooters. I gave the nod to the BMW because Kymco provides the power for the Beemer and since my DT300 has been so dependable I went with what I knew, even though the Honda is also a great bike, the BMW just feels so much better.
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Downtown 300 / clutch symptoms
« on: October 22, 2019, 04:11:12 PM »
Bike has turned over 46,000 miles. Other than standard parts that wear out or need replacements from time to time (tires, plug, filters, belt, etc.) the bike has been stellar in performance and reliability, far exceeding my expectations when I bought it in 2013. Recently I have found the bike idling higher than usual but under 2000 rpm. Having replaced all the parts in the drive pulley assembly with the exception of the clutch I am curious as to what symptoms would indicate a faulty or even "past due date" clutch. At this point and this mileage accumulated I am considering moving up to a bigger scooter, such as a Suzuki Burg or a Yamaha 400 Majesty or even possibly this 650 BMW that is floating around the metroplex with an asking price under 5k, rather than put anymore money into a scooter that might be nearing the end of it's run. I want to keep it till the end but not throw good money after bad. Thank you.
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Downtown 300 / hi/low beams together?
« on: September 23, 2019, 02:10:05 PM »
When I flip my high beams on I lose the low beam but if I hold the "flipper" switch and turn on the high beams I get both high and low beams and it is much better at night. My question....is this the way it's supposed to be or do the low beams shut off when you turn on the highs?
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Downtown 300 / broken fins on variator plate
« on: June 02, 2019, 06:15:36 PM »
Got my rollers, sliders and belt installed but I broke a few fins on the face plate. Will this throw off the balance and would it be best to let 'er sit until I get replacement face plate?
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Downtown 300 / "Too good to be true" on the replacement belt
« on: May 25, 2019, 11:17:44 PM »
Received my belts from Mad Hornets and as one might expected the belts I paid almost half for (which should have been a dead giveaway) have turned out to be too wide and too short, and not at all kymco brand as their website implies......(my late Father's voice was screaming in my head "don't do it boy, too good to be legit") . So I got back to reality and tried to order 2 from kymcopartsonline.com but for some reason it wont let me place an order as "clock error" message keeps popping up. Anyone else experience this? Guess I'll look on ebay for the belt. But Stig is right....always go with the Kymco brand in the bag to avoid any headaches...here it is the long memorial weekend and my hog is down ....... 
12
Downtown 300 / busted belt..my fault too!
« on: May 20, 2019, 08:30:05 PM »
Well it happened...always wondered what it was like and found out first hand. So I am out about 70 miles from home on the east side of Weatherford on 199 when a few chunks of rubber started coming out from underneath. And 5 seconds later...poof! No power and I forgot the cruise was on but fortunately I got her to the side of the road. I checked the belt three days ago and knew it was time because I had already put over 17500 on that belt. I have the belt on order and some new rollers and sliders since those are original I figured it was time to go full bore and replace those too but they hadn't arrived yet and thought I'd be safe by taking it easy, no hard acceleration and keeping RPM's low and bike under 60 mph. On the plus side I wasnt by the road more than 5 minutes before a guy with an empty trailer who happened to be going all the way past my place to Dallas to pick up a Honda 4-wheeler picked me up and dropped me off at my front door! On top of that he refused to take any money from me. Yes Texans are an odd bunch but so courteous and most often willing to help! So I ordered from a new supplier, 2 OEM kymco belts for under 90 bucks shipped. Anyone buy from these people???
http://www.madhornets.com/drive-belt-for-kymco-downtown-300-350-shadow-gti300-k-xct-nikita-kawasaki-j300-black/
http://www.madhornets.com/drive-belt-for-kymco-downtown-300-350-shadow-gti300-k-xct-nikita-kawasaki-j300-black/
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Downtown 300 / Finally.....a topbox.
« on: May 13, 2019, 05:28:20 PM »
Well after 7 years of bungie strapping my lunch bucket and what nots to my seat I finally broke down and got a really decent priced top box off of ebay for a tick under $60 bucks including free shipping so in essence I paid maybe 50 bucks and shipping because we all know "free shipping" is figured in the price. It was easy to mount as it included the hardware and mounting plate. Just locate bracket on your grab bar, leaving room to open your seat, mark the four holes, drill 5/16 holes thru grab bar. The hardware included is all you need, but as a safety precaution I ran up a second set of nyloc nuts to both the four mounting and I use a second wingnut on the topbox hold down screw on the bottom...can never be too safe! Should have done this years ago but never found a box I could justify the costs of ownership. Hope the pics show up as this is my second attempt at posting pics but so far no luck. Why is it so hard to post pics here and so easy when I sell on ebay? Also learned something about grab bar..I thought it was aluminum or cast but it turns out to be a very hard rubber. Comments welcomed!
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Downtown 300 / popping sound at high speed over 50
« on: April 15, 2019, 03:07:19 PM »
Got a problem folks! Got up and went for a ride and then stopped and filled up with gas at Valero, where I seldom if ever get gas. Ran great and is running great other than it sounds like there is a popping sound at high speeds. Thought it was my helmet strap slapping up against my helmet but that isnt it. Could be backfiring but it could also be bad gas? Valve adjustment? Runs great other than the popping sound. Thanks!
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Downtown 300 / TPS reset
« on: October 12, 2018, 02:48:55 PM »
I got up today for a ride and my bike is rough idling. Thought I'd do the TPS reset but I am not sure as to the process as the manual is not really spot on so someone enlighten me. This is how I see it:
1. Switch to run. 2. Key to off. 3. Open throttle. 4. Key to on. 5. Wait 8 seconds. 6. Key to off. 7. Key to on.
My question is this....Do you hold the throttle open all through the process or only to the 8 second countoff? Is the throttle still open during steps 6&7?
On another topic. My bike is bumping up against the 40,000 mile mark and will hit it this month. Thinking of replacing parts before they go bad. My practical side says "DO IT" but my experience says "If it aint broke, dont mess with it".....Any opinions?
Thank you
1. Switch to run. 2. Key to off. 3. Open throttle. 4. Key to on. 5. Wait 8 seconds. 6. Key to off. 7. Key to on.
My question is this....Do you hold the throttle open all through the process or only to the 8 second countoff? Is the throttle still open during steps 6&7?
On another topic. My bike is bumping up against the 40,000 mile mark and will hit it this month. Thinking of replacing parts before they go bad. My practical side says "DO IT" but my experience says "If it aint broke, dont mess with it".....Any opinions?
Thank you