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Messages - Yager200i

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376
Technical | How To / Re: Diesel oil for a scooter?
« on: February 19, 2011, 07:15:52 AM »
my oil has been breaking down rather quickly...

Below is a link to a page talking about the Kymco scooter manual stating that a SG-rated 15W-40 oil must be used. Turns out, the SG rating for oil is OLD (I think it's now up to SM rating), and the Kymco rep states that a regular 10W-40 automobile oil should be just fine.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1692715

Now that we've established that we CAN use either 10W-40 or 15W-40 oil in our scooter engines, which is the best one? Well, that's a tough thing to figure out.

As for me, because it's a high-revving engine, I want to be sure that there's no foaming, and little viscosity breakdown over the life of the oil.

So, after engine break-in (in which I'll be using a conventional 15W-40 oil and changing the oil and filter very frequently (ie.: after 25 miles, then 50, then 100, then 200, then 400, then 800, then 1600), I'll be using a diesel-rated synthetic 10W-40. Oil and filter change interval after break-in will be every 1000 miles.

The diesel-rated synthetic oils not only have more detergent in them to keep the engine clean, but they've got anti-foaming agents, and stand up to extreme use better, so there's less viscosity breakdown.

377
Yager GT 200i / Yager GT 200i air filter
« on: February 19, 2011, 06:08:50 AM »
Ok, I took the air filter assembly apart today, just so I could see what filter element was in there.

The only thing printed on the filter element is "Kymco KKC3".

Cross-referencing this with the Dink 200i parts list gives a part number of 1721A-KKC3-900. The picture in the parts list looks like the filter element in the scooter.

This is exactly the same part number that the Kymco Grandvista 250, the Grand Dink 125, and the Dink 125 uses.

I found the following vendors selling them:
KymcoPartsOnline.com $19.80
MoxieScooters.com $17.99


378
Technical | How To / Re: Kymco xciting 250 noise under acceleration
« on: February 19, 2011, 04:19:36 AM »
Zen and djrider:
All that sounds to me like the symptoms of a belt that is too loose, not too tight.

The squeal, the fluttering sound, the surging at low speeds, the vibration, all sound like symptoms of a loose belt.

Perhaps your rear pulley's contra-spring is weak or broken? It may be that they didn't optimize your variator setup to ensure enough belt tension. Going with a stronger contra-spring and slightly heavier weights might give the belt enough tension to stop the slipping, while ensuring that you have the top end speed of the original setup.

A belt that is properly tightened generally won't vibrate except at very specific frequencies that are related to their tension (sort of like a guitar string), a harmonic, if you will. If you're accelerating, you'll fly past those frequencies so quickly that you won't notice them.

However, a belt that is too loose will vibrate most of the time, regardless of the harmonic frequency it is experiencing due to tension and speed of rotation. Especially when it's under a heavy load.

Although I'm no expert, I maintain hundreds of air handling units and fans that have belts ranging from AP16 to CX155 in size, ranging from one belt to 5 belts per unit. So I know a bit about belts.

379
Yager GT 200i / Parts List
« on: February 18, 2011, 07:08:01 AM »
Ok, I've found the Parts List for the Dink 200i. Hope it's the same as the Yager GT 200i.

It's too big to attach (1.5 MB), so here's the link:
http://www.kymco.com.tr/html/pdf/ypkatalog/DINK%20200%20i%20SJ40AA(TK).pdf

Now to find the Service Manual.

380
Yager GT 200i / Wiring Diagram
« on: February 18, 2011, 06:45:35 AM »
Well, I'm making progress. I found the wiring diagram for the Dink 200i (I'm hoping it's the same as the Yager 200i).

It's attached to this post.

381
Yager GT 200i / Random Yager GT 200i questions
« on: February 18, 2011, 06:24:33 AM »
1) Where can I get the service manual for this scooter? I found one for the Dink 200, but it's not the fuel-injected variety.

2) Kymco also has a parts list book for each scooter. Anyone know where I can get one for the Yager GT 200i? Already found this.

3) Are the iridium spark plugs better than the standard DPR6EA-9 sparkplug? What's the best plug? Anyone find they have to run a hotter or colder plug? Already ordered the iridium plug (one heat range cooler, as they don't make an iridium plug in our heat range).

4) I can't find were to order an air filter. Anyone know the part number, or a cross-reference so I can get it somewhere? Already found this.

5) What belt size does this scooter take?

6) In regards to aftermarket LED lighting (for better night-time visibility), I'm considering adding some LED lights to the sides of the scooter to make the profile more visible. Anyone got any good suggestions for LED lights? What's the maximum wattage the charging system can take (on top of what it's already got to handle) and not cause problems?

7) Anyone up for helping to create a sticky thread or threads detailing every aspect of the Yager GT 200i (parts numbers and descriptions, where to order parts, maintenance procedures, etc.)?

8) There's a diagnostic port inside the battery compartment, does anyone know where I can get the diagnostic tool that plugs into that port? Is it an actual OBD-type tool, or is it a computer-interface type setup? Found this, just have to figure out how to order it.

382
Yager GT 200i / Re: Noisy belt!
« on: February 18, 2011, 06:03:42 AM »
My old scooter did that with a new belt, but it subsided after the belt had worn-in a bit (if you're running a Kevlar belt, it might take a couple thousand miles for it to subside).

Oddly enough, for a long road-trip once, we rented a Jeep Liberty that had the CVT transmission, and it made the exact same noise!

383
Yager GT 200i / Re: Yager GT 200i
« on: February 17, 2011, 04:34:18 PM »
There are two schools of thought on breaking in an engine.
There are those who say to baby the engine until the first 1000 miles, to be sure you don't break something.
And there are those who say there is a specific technique you can use that will ensure the engine is properly broken in, but without abusing it in its infancy.

I subscribe to the second train of thought, as it makes sense. It goes something like this:
Limit idling periods to under 2 minutes at a time, except for initial warm-up.

Don't go to WOT for long stretches until you hit the 1000 mile mark. Keep it to a maximum of 50% throttle for long stretches until you hit 300 miles, and 75% throttle until you hit 1000 miles. But DO go to WOT when taking off from a dead stop, until you hit cruising speed.

When decelerating, snap the throttle closed, don't 'throttle down' to a stop.

When you're taking off from a stop, hit the throttle hard up to cruising speed. The added pressure in the cylinder will force the piston rings out against the cylinder wall, ensuring they wear to a flat surface that has greater sealing capability, longer life, and less oil usage. If you 'baby' the engine, your rings won't seat properly, they'll have a more rounded profile, which will wear them out faster, have more blow-by, and cause more oil usage.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm



384
General Discussion / Re: your thoughts on 87 octane gas
« on: February 16, 2011, 06:14:44 AM »
It seems the Kymco manual states, "Use unleaded gasoline with a research octane number of 91 or higher."
 
The Research Octane Number (RON) is not what we use in the US, we use the Anti-Knock Index (AKI). There is also the Motor Octane Number (MON), further confusing the issue.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
 
In order to translate between RON (which the Kymco manual uses) and AKI (which US gas stations use), we have to do some math.
 
MON is a more stringent octane test than RON, so the MON will generally be 8-10 points lower than the MON.
 
So, we let this website do the calculations:
http://www.wolframalpha.com/entities/calculators/anti-knock_index/ra/6k/ue/
 
We know Kymco wants a RON of 91 or higher, so we plug that into the RON input on that page. We'll assume MON is 10 points lower than RON for this first run, so MON is 81.

The result is an AKI of 86. So, Kymco says with a RON of 91 and a MON of 81, we can run 87 AKI octane gas just fine (in other words, the 87 octane number as it shows at US gas pumps).
 
Let's do another calculation with the MON set 8 points lower than the RON.
That gives an AKI of 87. So again, we should be just fine running 87 octane gas in the scooter, according to the Kymco manual.
 
So, it would appear that running 87 octane (AKI) gas should be just fine for these scooters.

385
General Discussion / Re: Yager gt 200i
« on: February 16, 2011, 04:29:33 AM »
Where would be the best place to get a service manual for the bike?
Check your inbox ;)

Hi, InfernoST.
Just got my Yager GT 200i two days ago. Haven't ridden it yet, because I'm recovering from foot surgery (walked so much at work that I broke off the sesamoid bone under the big toe joint, had to have it removed), but I want to do as much maintenance as possible on it.

I gained experience fixing scooters on a cruddy Tank Urban Racer 150 DE, which despite having many, MANY problems (mirror mount fatigued and fell off, rear brake disc was warped from the factory, brakes squeaked even when not applied, it chewed through belts even though driven gently, wouldn't even kick start if the battery was even a bit low (and the alarm drained the battery in about 12 hours), lights burned out quickly, blinkers only worked intermittently, front fork downtube had a bad weld and moved when front brakes were applied, it came from the factory with no bolt holding the bottom of the motor to the frame, etc., etc., etc.), I was able to coax almost 10,000 miles out of it before the engine developed electrical problems and I'd had enough.

So, can you forward me the link to buy the service manual for the Yager GT 200I? Thank you.

Anybody want to buy a gently used 2007 Tank Urban Racer 150 DE? Eh, I didn't think so...

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