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Messages - Yager200i

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16
Yager GT 200i / Re: I think I overfilled my gas tank
« on: November 24, 2015, 10:43:42 PM »
Quote from: Fogie on November 24, 2015, 08:07:30 PM
I haven't tried anything; I left it for the dealer to sort out. They were going to get to it today; so, I should  know something tomorrow or the next day.

Another thought that crossed my mind: Since the problem started shortly after I filled the bike, I may have gotten a tank full of bad gas. We'll see.

It'd have to be really bad gas to affect this engine... it's kind of an omnivore when it comes to fuel. I've put as much as 200 ml of acetone and 200 ml of water into a tankful of fuel and it ran better than ever!

If you think you've got water in your fuel, your best bet is to put acetone into the fuel (mix acetone and fuel together, pour it into the tank, then flush the filler neck by pouring in some straight fuel with no acetone). The acetone will bind the water and fuel together and your engine will burn it just fine. In fact, the water expanding to steam in the cylinder should give you a bit of a power boost.

Although I must say, I did get a bad batch of fuel once... it wasn't water, it was sediment smaller than 12 micron, and it coated everything downstream of the fuel injector. Had to tear the bike apart and clean it from the fuel tank to the intake manifold, including the fuel injector itself.

The Yager doesn't have a fuel filter installed from the factory, so that crud ends up in the fuel injector. That could have happened to you. I'd recommend installing a 5 to 12 micron fuel filter in the fuel line (make sure it's a metal-bodied fuel filter that can withstand the pressure).

I use 12 micron Wix 33031 / Napa 3031 filters. They're good up to 60 psi. I can't find any 5 micron fuel filters that would fit on the bike, or I'd install one of those instead.

17
Yager GT 200i / Re: I think I overfilled my gas tank
« on: November 24, 2015, 10:35:41 PM »
Oh yeah, I almost forgot about the TPS... I've fiddled with it quite a bit, too. In trying to get the engine to run a bit leaner so it'd get better fuel mileage, I shifted the position of the TPS, thinking that the ECU would think the throttle wasn't open as much, and thus would inject less fuel... that doesn't happen.

What happens instead is that the ECU becomes confused because the engine is operating outside of its fueling map, thus it'll cut out. You can make it run richer (at least until the O2 sensor heats up and starts inputting to the ECU and leans it back out... so you could adjust the TPS to get a richer cold idle mixture), but not leaner.

But that's not load-dependent, that's engine speed dependent. If you're getting a miss on high engine load (say, you're pulling up a long up-sloped freeway onramp at WOT) and it starts cutting out as the engine works harder, that's likely the spark wire or spark coil... the harder the engine works, the higher the cylinder pressure. The higher the cylinder pressure, the harder it is for the spark to jump the spark plug's gap. The harder it is for the spark to jump the spark plug's gap, the higher the spark voltage. And if you have a faulty coil or spark wire, it might just reach a high enough voltage to arc, which is what happened in my case.

It ran fine once I was on the level, even at WOT and full speed... but acceleration up a long slope caused it to miss... at least until I backed off the throttle and accelerated slower, then it ran fine.

18
Yager GT 200i / Re: I think I overfilled my gas tank
« on: November 24, 2015, 10:20:11 PM »
Quote from: CROSSBOLT on November 24, 2015, 02:45:46 PM
I got to thinking about this and there IS  vapor can on the Yager! The PAIR device is where I incorrectly said the vapor cannister was. The vapor can is all the way to the rear of the bike, rubber mounted to the rear cross frame which is just forward of the tail light.

Have you tried a TPS-ISC reset? Also called initialize. I know I harp on this but it is ignored by most techs for various reasons. Requires no tools and there is no downside.

Karl

No, that "vapor can" is a valve and the "rocks and bugs" air filter that goes into the PAIR system, I believe. It should have an open-ended hose to suck air in, one hose to go to the main PAIR filter, and a vacuum tube that connects to the intake manifold. When the engine is decelerating or idling, engine vacuum opens the valve and allows exhaust vacuum to suck fresh air into the exhaust manifold so unburned hydrocarbons can get the oxygen needed to burn.

I've been all over the fuel system on this bike, there's no vapor canister nor any hose connections to the fuel tank or filler neck that go to one. The only hose on the filler neck is a "burp line" that runs from the top of the tank to the top of the filler neck to get air out of the tank, so as you fill it all the way up, that air trapped at the top of the tank has somewhere to go.

Unfortunately, that "burp line" is too small to get all the air out quickly enough when you're filling. That's why it's a good idea to put the bike on the main stand to fill up, and rock it back and forth a couple times after the fuel level gets up into the filler neck. I generally fill it up until it's a few inches from completely full, rock it back and forth (a huge air bubble will come out), fill it back up to within three inches or so of completely full, rock it again (a small air bubble will sometimes come out), then fill it right up to the lip of the fill opening.

19
Yager GT 200i / Re: I think I overfilled my gas tank
« on: November 23, 2015, 09:56:00 PM »
Quote from: Fogie on November 21, 2015, 02:14:35 PM
Many thanks for the info. I don't have a  parts list catalog, but I do have the service manual. I spent a bunch of time trying to find the vapor canister in the manual, all to no avail. So, I ended up dropping the bike off with the dealer (I don't have it back yet, and don't know for sure what the problem is). The dealer seemed to think the most likely cause of my symptoms is a faulty coil (that coincidentally began acting up after I filled the bike).

My missing problem under hard acceleration was due to a tiny, tiny hole the spark punched through the spark plug wire, right where the wire goes through the frame, between the spark coil and the spark plug. You might check that. I wrapped it with a thick wrapping of electrical tape, but it wore (or sparked) through it again. Not a problem, though, my electronics guy informs me he's got the bEMF spark coil isolator circuit done (it isolates a hot spark coil from the ECU to prevent blowing out the ECU), so I'll be swapping out the spark coil and spark plug wire soon.

But check for a very small hole in your spark plug wire... you'll likely need a magnifying glass to see it unless it's been there a while and had a chance to get charred a bit.

Quote from: Fogie on November 21, 2015, 02:14:35 PM
A few "by the ways":

1) Just as Karl suggested, I talked to another Kymco technician who also thought the problem might be a saturated vapor canister. He suggested that a high-speed run would result in some valve opening and causing air to pass through the canister, drying it out. I didn't try this (it's too damn cold for a lengthy high-speed run).

2) Is there any site where I can download the parts list catalog? It sound like it could be useful.

Here you go:
Kymco Diagnostic Tool Users Manual (PDF format):
http://www.filedropper.com/kymcodiagnostictoolusermanual

The maintenance schedule I use (OpenOffice.org .ODF spreadsheet format):
http://www.filedropper.com/maintenanceschedule

Yager 200i Parts List (PDF format):
http://www.filedropper.com/yager200ipartslist

Yager 200i Wiring Diagram (PDF format):
http://www.filedropper.com/yager200iwiringdiagram

And the Yager 200i Service Manual (PDF format):
http://www.filedropper.com/yager-200i-service-manual

Quote from: Fogie on November 21, 2015, 02:14:35 PM
3) Precisely what is a "PAIR filter"? Google hasn't been much help. I assume it has something to do with filtering the gas as it leaves the tank.

Pulsed AIR (PAIR) system... it pulses air into the exhaust manifold to allow any unburned hydrocarbons to burn, thus reducing emissions.

20
Yager GT 200i / Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - NOV 2015
« on: November 19, 2015, 04:56:26 AM »
-----
17 Nov 2015:
My 71st fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 11,555.5 miles
Miles Ridden: 215.1 miles
Fuel: 2.397 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.499
Total Cost: $5.99
Fuel Mileage: 89.737 MPG

The rheopectic grease I ordered on 31 Oct 2015 was delivered.
-----

21
Yager GT 200i / Re: I think I overfilled my gas tank
« on: November 19, 2015, 04:51:19 AM »
No! The Kymco Yager GT 200i has no vapor canister. It has a PAIR filter canister below and forward of the engine (behind the gas tank), but no vapor canister. The "burp line" that gets air out of the gas tank runs from the top of the gas tank to the top of the filler neck.

There's no way to "overfill" the Yager's gas tank. I've filled it all the way up to the lip each and every fill-up with no problems.

Look at page 82 of the Yager parts list catalog, you'll see where the "burp line" connects. There's no vapor canister.

22
Yager GT 200i / Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - OCT 2015
« on: October 07, 2015, 04:45:40 PM »
-----
02 Oct 2015:
I finally got confirmation from PartsForScooters.com that Dr. Pulley has my new clutch ready to ship. The Dr. Pulley HiT clutch I ordered has a custom pillow block angle to give a quicker lockup. The HiT clutch for scooters normally comes with a 35 degree angle pillow, mine will have a 50 degree angle. You can get them with pillows of from 35 to 60 degrees. A pillow with a higher angle gives a stronger clamping force to reduce or eliminate clutch slippage. I'll leave the pillow springs off, and put the weakest springs available on the clutch arms, so it engages at a low speed with minimal slippage. I'm hoping to get it to engage at around 2800 engine RPM, which will be about 8.5 MPH. If it engages too harshly, I'll put the weakest pillow springs on so it slips a bit more before engaging, although at the low speed it'll be engaging, that shouldn't be a problem.

This clutch will be a good interrim measure until I can find an IVT (Infinitely Variable Transmission) to mount to the bike.

Part Number   Dr. Pulley Kymco HiT Clutch (169-455)
Description   Dr. Pulley HiT Clutch - B201502 - 130R 175 (50 degree)
Total   $324.99      
-----
06 Oct 2015:
PartsForScooters.com called me today so I could pay for the clutch I'd ordered. It'll be shipped out today and should be delivered to me in about a week.
-----
13 Oct 2015:
The Dr. Pulley HiT clutch was delivered to me today. It came with all the clutch arm springs and pillow block springs, along with a torque spring washer to minimize torque spring binding, and a locknut holder to prevent the clutch nut from spinning loose.

I'll put it on the bike first chance I get.
-----
14 Oct 2015:
My 70th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 11,340.4 miles
Miles Ridden: 226.2 miles
Fuel: 2.561 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.619
Total Cost: $6.71
Fuel Mileage: 88.325 MPG

Fuel efficiency dipped a bit this tank. Likely because the temperature is starting to drop, but also because I took the bike out for a high speed run after the last oil change.
-----
18 Oct 2015:
As I was riding back home from work, I kept hearing a metallic rattling noise. Come to find out, the heat shield on the exhaust pipe has lost a screw. Not sure how that happened, as I cranked them down pretty tight. So I went around to the various hardware stores and pieced together what I needed to ensure that never happens again. I got two hex-head bolts, two fender washers, and some really thick exhaust gasket material (because when the screw fell off, so did the phenolic insulator washers, so I had to make my own). I used a socket and hammer to cut the gasket material to the right diameter, then a drill bit turned slowly by hand to punch the hole through the center. Then I cleaned up the threads with my thread tap, put it all together and cranked it down tight with a hex wrench. That's a good deal tighter than I could ever get the old bolts with a Phillips head screwdriver, so hopefully they'll not loosen again.
-----
19 Oct 2015:
I took apart the clutch and CVT today, cleaned it up, lightly greased all the moving parts and installed the Dr. Pulley HiT clutch I'd purchased.

I took off the clutch arm and pillow block springs that had been installed at the factory, very lightly greased the areas where the anti-rattle dots slide, used a file to round off a few sharp edges to ensure the clutch arms swung without any friction, and installed the lightest clutch arm and pillow block springs Dr. Pulley had provided along with the clutch.

When I took it out for a test ride, the clutch would start engaging at about 3750 RPM and lock up at about 5000 RPM... more slippage than the old clutch, so I went back to the garage, and tore it down again.

I then removed the pillow block springs and stretched the clutch arm springs a tiny bit to loosen them up. When I started the bike on the main stand, the rear wheel immediately started turning, but as the clutch pads wore in to the clutch bell a bit, it slowed way down to maybe a few RPM.

Taking it out for a test ride, it got even smoother as I rode it a few miles. When the engine is idling, there's no pulling at all. I crack the throttle just a tiny bit and the clutch starts pulling. Engine RPM about 3000. A few hundred more RPM and I can feel the pillow blocks engage and lock the clutch. The clutch disengages at 10 MPH. Very smooth and very controllable.

I think I'll try to find some 8 or 8.5 kg clutch arm springs. Those should be just about perfect. I'm worried that the 10 kg clutch arm springs will come loose, since I stretched them a bit, so lighter springs that aren't stretched should be perfect.

I also want the variator to gear up at a lower engine speed. Right now, it starts variating at about 4750 RPM, which is right below the engine speed that I use now when I'm riding around town. I twist the throttle to get 5000 RPM, and it'll eventually (over the length of a couple blocks or so) get up to 40 MPH. Slightly heavier weights will get me up to speed a bit sooner. So I ordered the 20x15 21 gram Dr. Pulley sliders. They're 1 gram heavier than the Dr. Pulley sliders I'm using now, which should shift the speed at which variation happens a bit lower.
169-259-21g Dr. Pulley 20x15 Sliding Roller Weights - 21g   
Roller Weight Size: 21 Grams
Subtotal: $29.99
Shipping & Handling: $3.35
Total: $33.34
Confirmation Number: 298-497506
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20 Oct 2015:
I got notification via email that the Dr. Pulley sliders I ordered yesterday have been shipped.
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27 Oct 2015:
I received the Dr. Pulley 21 gram sliders in the mail. I'll put them in first chance I get.
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31 Oct 2015:
I ordered some very thick rheopectic grease for a clutch experiment I want to try. The clutch has a slight judder to it as it's engaging, so I'm going to put a thin film of rheopectic (shear thickening) grease on the clutch bell where the clutch pads engage. That should allow the clutch pads to touch down without grabbing, then the grease will thicken up with the shear stress and provide a smooth engagement. It should make the clutch work smoothly and not heat up much at all. If it doesn't work, I can use brake cleaner and degreaser to remove it. This is the same stuff small plane owners use to prevent front wheel shimmy on take-off and landing, so it's some pretty thick stuff, and gets thicker when it's sheared.

Non-Newtonian fluids, a modern technological marvel. Heh.

Ordered from:
Newgate Simms Limited
Unit 6, Broughton Mills Road,
Bretton, Chester CH4 0BY

Nye Lubricants Extra Heavy PG­44A, 50gram jar NL1182 22.50 BP
-----

23
Technical | How To / Re: Tailblazer pulsing brake lights
« on: September 30, 2015, 03:30:54 PM »
Quote from: 2wheelfun on September 15, 2015, 12:57:56 PM
Some times those Chinese can really mess up a description using engwish. Why in the world would they design a tail light to flash is beyond me. I'm thinking it's wrong, for the price I probably will take a gamble. The solution is that $84 bulb listed above. Probably for 2, hard to swallow that price for an 1157 bulb. Hard to put a price on safety huh? I've been wanting to add an extra tail/brake light for months now and have been leaning towards a license plate holder addition. There's a million choices and just haven't made up my mind yet. I hate splicing into the stock wiring on a new bike but will when I've decided exactly what I'm going to do. This flashing bulb is plug and play and I like that. Plus it seems like a great safety feature. Probably will order the elcheapo and post on the results. If it's worthless the 80 buck bulb will probably be in my future.

For splicing into the wiring, get those little locking caps that clip over the existing wire. You don't have to cut any wires and it's a very quick way to wire in your extra lights. Since the lights are low current draw, the locking caps work with no problems.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-x-Nylon-Mid-Way-Spades-Quick-Connector-Wire-Terminals-Splice-22-18AWG-SALE-/310410306962

24
Yager GT 200i / Re: Oil drain bolt size??
« on: September 30, 2015, 03:24:07 PM »
If you've got a Costco membership (or know someone who can get you a Costco cash card, which will get you into Costco), they have a full tool set in a large plastic housing that has every tool you'll need to work on your bike except for bearing puller, feeler gauges, and spark plug gapping tool. I got mine for only $100. The tools snap back into place in the plastic housing, so everything stays organized and neat.

25
Technical | How To / Re: Tailblazer pulsing brake lights
« on: September 14, 2015, 05:02:47 AM »
Hi, Stig.

I've got the Kisan Tech T50W TailBlazer brake light flasher installed, as well as this:
http://www.interstatecycle.com/oemcatalogs/p/all/aftermarket_street-electrical/51635d4e7841550e64e018d4/l-e-d-license-plate-carrier

That's wired in to the TailBlazer as well, so it flashes when the brake light flashes. It's clear acrylic with red LEDs embedded in it. I taped off the edges of the LED license plate carrier, and painted the inner parts of it with red paint. I was operating under the assumption that red reflects red light, so the red paint would reflect the red LED light outward toward the perimeter of the LED license plate carrier, making it appear brighter. It is pretty bright.

I'm 100% LED on this bike now. The brake light is this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1157-High-Power-5630-Chip-Cree-LED-Red-Turn-Signal-Brake-Tail-Lights-Bulbs-/231028588922

It's so bright that you can see it reflecting off reflective signs a block away at night. That, combined with the TailBlazer really grabs the attention of vehicles approaching me at stop lights. I keep a close eye on my mirrors and flash the brake light when cars are approaching.

26
Yager GT 200i / Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - SEP 2015
« on: September 14, 2015, 04:48:02 AM »
-----
13 Sep 2015:
My 69th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 11,114.2 miles
Miles Ridden: 237.9 miles
Fuel: 2.562 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.699
Total Cost: $6.91
Fuel Mileage: 92.857 MPG
-----
14 Sep 2015:
I finally got around to catching up on my maintenance items.

11,000 mile service:
Replace engine oil
Replace engine oil filter
Replace gear oil

Engine Oil - 1000 ml Royal Purple 10W-40 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil with Synerlec
Engine Oil Additive - 8.5 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)
Oil Filter - HighFlo HF562
Gear Oil - 200 ml Royal Purple MaxGear With Synerlec 75W-140
Gear Oil Additive - 1.75 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)

11,200 mile service:
Adjust valve lash

11,400 mile service:
Inspect brake system

Nothing to report on any of these maintenance items. I took the bike out for a high speed run to get the tungsten disulphide mixed into the oil well. I noticed the stumble when the engine is pulling hard has returned, so the electrical tape on the spark plug wire must have deteriorated enough to allow the spark to jump to ground again. I'll fix that first chance I get.

Considering that the oil comes out looking just as good as when it went in, I'm considering extending the oil change interval from 600 miles to 1000 miles. I'll get an oil analysis done on the next oil change.
-----

27
Yager GT 200i / Re: Yager for Cannonball?
« on: September 14, 2015, 04:31:50 AM »
Does the Scooter Cannonball allow modified scooters?

If so, put 15% taller rear gears in, put 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide in the engine oil and 1.75 grams in the gear oil, pump up your tires to 40 psi, put in 1000 RPM clutch springs, and drop in a Pulstar HE1HT9 spark plug. It'll hit 85 MPH and *still* get ~75 MPG. If you take it easier on the throttle, you'll be getting in the 90 MPG range. Drop 200 ml of acetone and 200 ml of water in with your fuel, and it'll have more than enough power for anything you want to do (only do that with E10 gasoline... with straight gas with no ethanol, you have to use less water).

If you want to get fancy, drop in ceramic or hybrid-ceramic bearings in your wheels and rear gears to lower friction... the thing will roll so easily it's not even funny. You can still cut bearing friction a good bit just by mixing in tungsten disulfide with your grease, though.

Even with the taller gearing, it'll still have plenty of oomph to pull up steep hills. Mine will do 68 MPH up the interstate hills around here, and can climb the steep hills in the Oakland Hills at only 5000 RPM without breaking a sweat.

I did all the above to my Yager. It cruises at 65 MPH at 6750 RPM. If I used the OEM belt (which is ~1 mm wider) instead of the Gates Boost+ Kevlar belt, I'd be hitting 65 MPH at 6500 RPM. Red-line on this bike is 8000 RPM, and the rev limiter is at 9200 RPM... so a hard break-in of the engine to get good ring seal means you'll  have plenty of headroom for a higher top speed.

28
Technical | How To / Re: Magic potions
« on: August 15, 2015, 04:40:24 AM »
Tungsten Disulfide (aka WS2), 0.6 micron. Add 8.5 grams to each quart of oil, and 1.75 grams for your 200 ml of gear oil. Add just enough to your grease that it blackens it.

It's the most lubricious material known to man. It decreases the piston ring / cylinder wall friction, along with protecting your bearings should they ever get oil-starved (for oiled bearings) or have the grease washed / melted out of them (for greased bearings).

29
Technical | How To / New idea... give me your thoughts...
« on: August 03, 2015, 09:48:28 PM »
Ok, so a little background. I'm looking at ways of evaporating (at least some of) the fuel prior to it hitting the engine, to increase fuel efficiency. In addition, given that water is an integral part of the combustion process (http://open-source-energy.org/?topic=2431.msg33797#msg33797), I'm looking at ways of adding moisture to the intake air to facilitate efficient combustion. And a third goal is to get rid of the PCV valve and put a slight vacuum on the crankcase to reduce windage losses, increase the effective pressure across the piston during the power stroke, and sweep blowby gasses out of the crankcase before they can contaminate the oil.

So as an experiment, I'll be doing something like what you see in the attached image:


The crankcase gasses are routed to an oil catch can, then to the top of the gas tank through a check valve.

The gas tank "burp line" at the top of the filler neck is tapped into (the original function, to burp air from the top of the tank during filling, is left intact) and routed to the water tank through a check valve.

The water tank "burp line" at the top of the filler neck is tapped into and routed through an En-Valve (which maintains a consistent 6 inches Hg of vacuum), which is then routed to the intake manifold.

The crankcase blow-by gasses and any oil vapor are dissolved into the gasoline in the fuel tank. Any gas that evaporates is routed through the water tank. Thus the gasses being pulled through the En-Valve and into the intake are fuel and water laden.

There's little risk of explosion, the crankcase gasses are low-oxygen exhaust gasses that slipped by the rings. There won't be a lot of flow... just the amount of blow-by past the rings, which is a product of engine speed... the higher the engine speed, the more blow-by gasses, thus the more flow through this system.

I'm considering putting a small venturi in the intake, so even at WOT, there will be a bit of suction on this system. Thus, at low throttle, the intake vacuum will maintain vacuum on this system. At high throttle, the venturi vacuum will maintain vacuum on this system.

The ECU will sense the extra fuel being added via this system and cut back the fuel injector PWM duty cycle to compensate. Eventually, I'll have a new programmable ECU that'll let the engine run lean, but for now, it's just an experiment with fuel evaporation and water vapor intake.

The entire premise behind this is that a good portion of the fuel injected into our engines is used not for propulsion, but to cool the combustion process prior to it hitting the exhaust valve. As combustion progresses, the fire goes out because the fuel:air ratio becomes too rich... not because all the fuel is burnt up, but because all the oxygen is consumed. The fuel droplets injected via the fuel injector have only a few milliseconds to absorb enough heat to vaporize, and some of them don't... by design. They continue to evaporate after combustion has ceased, thereby cooling things down so the exhaust valve doesn't get burnt. That's why we have such things as the PAIR system on our scooters... it injects extra air into the exhaust to burn off that fuel that didn't burn in-cylinder because the droplets didn't vaporize in time.

That's why, as you lean out the engine, it actually runs hotter... there's less fuel after combustion ends to vaporize and absorb the heat of combustion. I propose to replace the cooling effect of that extra fuel with water, which is needed by the combustion process anyway, and is an end result of the combustion process in any case. The water vapor in the diagram above won't do much to help cool the cylinder, it's there strictly to facilitate more efficient combustion. Eventually, after I get the new programmable ECU installed, there will be an ECU-controlled water injector on the bike.

And before you go all wild-eyed and start issuing warnings about water in the engine, you should know that I've dumped 90 ml of water straight into the gas tank the last couple tankfuls... an amount that is small enough that at prevailing temperatures, the ethanol in the fuel can absorb it. My fuel efficiency is at an all-time high, and the engine is running stronger than ever.

So... what do you think?

30
Yager GT 200i / Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - AUG 2015
« on: August 02, 2015, 05:23:17 PM »
-----
02 Aug 2015:
My 68th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 10,876.3 miles
Miles Ridden: 237.8 miles
Fuel: 2.517 gallons
Price/Gal: $3.199
Total Cost: $8.05
Fuel Mileage: 94.478 MPG

The trip odometer was at 214.8 when the gas tank gauge finally went down to the last segment and started flashing. It took another 23.0 miles of riding to remove that last segment on the gas gauge. I was just approaching Costco when the last segment disappeared on the gas gauge, so I didn't need to ride far to the pumps. I could have ridden maybe another 10 miles or so.

This is yet another all-time high fuel efficiency and miles-per-tank record. I really didn't think it'd do this well this tank... I rode over to Oakland to visit friends again, and the weather was just right, the wind was just right, the engine wanted to run strong, so I couldn't resist opening her up. There's about 20 miles on this tank at WOT.

I ordered an En-Valve:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260466425018
http://www.envalve.com/index.html
En-Ovation Technology Inc.
envalve at aol.com
Item number 260466425018
Subtotal $45.00
Shipping $10.00
Total $55.00

The En-Valve is a CARB-approved PCV valve replacement that draws a constant 6 inches Hg of vacuum on the crankcase. This has several benefits.

First, it sucks blowby gasses out of the crankcase before they can contaminate the oil.

Second, by lowering the crankcase pressure, the effective differential pressure between the top of the piston and the bottom of the piston is greater on the power stroke, delivering more power. It's not a lot, but every little bit helps.

Third, it lowers windage losses from the crank and connecting rod whirring around in the crankcase air.

Fourth, it prevents oil seal leakage.

Fifth, the lower pressure helps any water and unburnt blow-by fuel in the engine oil to boil off more rapidly.

I'll be using it in a slightly different way that will hopefully provide a sixth benefit... that of radically increased fuel efficiency... more details to come.

[EDIT]
Go here for the explanation of what I'm planning to do:
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=14466
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03 Aug 2015:
The En-Valve I ordered yesterday has shipped.
Shipped Via: USPS First Class Package
Tracking Number: 9114999944238683531802
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04 Aug 2015:
The position lights I'd ordered on 28 Jul 2015 arrived in the mail.
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05 Aug 2015:
I finally got around to putting in the license plate LED I'd ordered on 24 Mar 2015. And I put in the position lights I'd ordered on 28 Jul 2015.

The new license plate LED is a bit brighter than the old one. The new position lights are a bit shorter than the old ones, the LED inside is much larger diameter than the old lights (the old lights had a tiny LED inside, whereas the new ones the LED takes up nearly the entire diameter of the bulb), and they're a good bit brighter. The two position lights together are as bright as the headlight.
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06 Aug 2015:
I ordered a couple gauges from Summit Racing / Genuine Hotrod / Powersports Place to fit to the bike for testing:

VDO Cockpit Series Analog Vacuum Gauge 150042
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-150042/overview/
$56.24

Longacre Water Temperature Gauge 46515
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-46515/overview/
$46.97

Since I'd ordered previously from SummitRacing.com, I had a $20 off certificate number for any order over $100.

Total: $83.21
Order #5000782
Customer Number: 16558568

The order shipped out to me later the same day.
Tracking Number: C11406705559389
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07 Aug 2015:
I performed the 10,800 mile service today:
Inspect brake system
Inspect / Fill / Replace battery

Nothing to report on either service item.
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08 Aug 2015:
The gauges I ordered on 06 Aug 2015 were delivered to me.
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10 Aug 2015:
The En-Valve I ordered on 02 Aug 2015 was delivered to me.
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18 Aug 2015:
I paid the Geico insurance for the scooter for the period 01 Oct 2015 to 01 Oct 2016.
Cost: $78.76
Confirmation Number: 231A-97J1653H-328330
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