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Topics - Yager200i

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Yager GT 200i / Ok, dumb question...

« on: July 31, 2012, 03:12:56 AM »

I've ordered new fuel filters from FleetFilter.com, and I'm ready to put a new filter in, but I've checked from tank to injector (on the bike and in the manual), and I cannot find where there's an existing fuel filter!

Is there? If so, where is it? Do they just rely upon that sock in the tank?

If that's the case, I'll just cut the fuel line and install the filter somewhere convenient to reach.

Yager GT 200i / First emergency stop

« on: July 20, 2011, 05:11:42 AM »

Well, I had my first emergency stop today.

Heading toward a traffic light, the light was green, I was about 125 feet from the crosswalk, at 38 mph (2 miles per hour under the speed limit).

The light turned yellow, then almost immediately turned red. This intersection has a traffic camera on it, and it's a notorious intersection... they decreased the time that the yellow light shows so that it forces people to choose between 'running the red', or slamming on their brakes; as a way of getting more 'you ran a red light' traffic ticket income. Unfortunately, it also causes a lot of rear-ender traffic accidents.

I quickly glanced in my rear view mirrors to be sure I had room in front of the car behind me as I cranked down on the brakes, the rear wheel locked a bit so I let off it until I could just hear it barely squealing a little bit near its traction limit.

I stopped about 3 feet inside the crosswalk, then backed up.

Now, at 38 mph, this all took a total of about 2 seconds. A car wouldn't have been able to stop, and would have gotten a ticket (or gotten rear-ended if they'd tried to stop).

Somebody should tell the DMV that their policy of ultra-short yellows as an income generator is dangerous, which is diametrically opposed to the purpose of traffic cameras in the first place.

Yager GT 200i / Induction loops

« on: July 02, 2011, 11:17:18 PM »

Background:
----
My old scooter barely triggered the induction loops at the entrance gates to the parking garage at work, so my parking badge wouldn't work. They gave up trying to make it work, and told me to punch the button at the entrance gate to get a paper ticket, then get it validated in the parking office each day.

This worked fine for years. My new Kymco Yager GT 200i scooter worked similarly. No problem, as I park one floor beneath the parking office, so it's a short detour to get the paper ticket validated.
----

So, I'm pulling into the gate Friday before last, I punch the button and get the paper ticket, the gate opens, I goose the throttle to get rolling, and the gate comes down. I see at the last second that it's coming down, so I duck, and it hits square on my helmet and left mirror. My left mirror moved out of the way without damage, and my helmet took the brunt of the blow. Rather than retracting, it kept pushing, bouncing off my helmet and hitting me in the back twice, hard.

These are heavy gate arms, about 80 pounds.

I went to get my paper ticket validated, and told the parking office people about it. They assured me they'd get it fixed by Monday.

So, I spent all weekend with dizziness and a major headache.

Since there are only a couple gates that work with my scooter (the others don't even open, their induction loops are too weak to sense the bike), on Monday, I went through the same gate. It happened again!! But this time, I was quick enough on the throttle to get through so that the swing arm hit me on the back, not the head.

Now I'm spitting mad. I go to the shop, get a hacksaw, and go to the parking office.

Holding up the hacksaw, I declare to the parking office people, "This is for the next time that f***ing entrance gate hits me! It's done it twice now, and you said it'd be fixed by today."

They gave me blank stares, like they'd never even heard there was a problem.

So, now I'm down to one entrance gate that works with my scooter. Come to find out, they're replacing all the electronics with new stuff, that's less sensitive but cheaper than what they've got now. So eventually, none of the gates will work for me. And they increased the speed that the gates swing down, to try to get more cars through in the same amount of time, which is why it hit me so hard.

So, does anyone have any recommendations for an induction loop sensor magnet that I can mount on the bottom of the bike to get the gates to work again?

Yager GT 200i / Yager GT 200i drive belt

« on: May 07, 2011, 06:38:21 PM »

After inspecting the drive belt yesterday, I got to wondering if there were an aftermarket Kevlar belt for the Yager GT 200i. So, I did some digging. Here's what I found:

The belt is manufactured by Bando for Kymco, hence the Bando name printed on the belt. It has a number printed on it: 23100-LEA6-9000, which corresponds to Kymco Part Number KY.00127099.

The belt itself has the following measurements (according to a Bando PDF file I found that's in Italian):
799-19.2-28-9.5S

799 mm length, 19.2 mm width, 28 degree angle. I'm not sure what the '9.5S' part is. And I can't find any part number on the Bando website.

According to the Gates website, they have a special program (Gates Boost) just for scooters and such. They make a Kevlar (aramid fiber) belt that cross-references to the Kymco OEM number, and that belt has a number of 9802-31706. But, I can't find any dealers selling it in the US. It's called a Boost+ belt.

Anybody got any more leads on this Gates belt?

Yager GT 200i / Yager GT 200i recall

« on: April 26, 2011, 04:51:13 AM »

Got the following in the mail today:
====================
Dear KYMCO Owner:

KYMCO has initiated a voluntary recall of your vehicle related to the Vehicle Emissions Control Information or VECI label. The VECI label is designed to inform your service dealer about the emissions system equipment installed on your scooter in the event your emissions system requires service or repair.

KYMCO has determined that a discrepancy exists between the information contained on VECI label and the actual equipment installed on your vehicle. This discrepancy does not affect the actual performance of your vehicle or the emissions system requirements for your scooter. However, the VECI label installed on your vehicle does not reflect that a "Pulsed Air Injection" system, commonly referred to as "PAIR", is installed on your scooter.

This omission has the potential to negatively impact your vehicle by causing confusion at your service center which could result in the exclusion of the PAIR system from the five-year emission warranty service. In such an instance, a servicing dealer could fail to identify PAIR as part of your vehicle's emissions system and thus fail to consider it during diagnosis and repair of your scooter.

Therefore, KYMCO USA is providing you with the corrected VECI label (which properly includes the PAIR system information). Please locate the VECI label under the seat of your scooter and install the replacement label over the top of your existing label (see the instructions on the following page). Please keep in mind that the replacement label is designed to be tamperproof, and any attempt to remove it once it has been installed will result in its destruction.
====================

Now that is attention to detail. Good job, Kymco. I'm so glad I didn't buy a scooter from any other manufacturer, as I'm betting they'd not bother to fix something as small as a label.

Yager GT 200i / Variator and clutch tuning?

« on: April 19, 2011, 04:26:00 AM »

Ok, I gotta say, the Yager GT 200i is one hell of a bike. It was drizzling rain today, and for some reason, when it's wet outside, the engine just wants to roar, so I let it. I hit 77 mph on stretches where I usually can only get to about 71 or 72. It literally launched itself up to 50 mph so quickly that it was scary. Maybe I should look into fitting this beast with a water-mist system on the intake? Then I'd have that kind of performance all the time.

One thing I don't like is the variator setup. The engine seems to want to shift down to the lowest gear possible (and highest engine RPM possible) for any given speed. This isn't what I'm used to... my old scooter seemed to want to shift UP to the highest gear possible.

And, the clutch doesn't start engaging until just under 4000 RPM. My old scooter started engaging at just over 2500 RPM and was locked by 3000 RPM.

Has anyone tried fitting their variators with heavier roller weights yet? Or putting slightly weaker springs on their clutches so they engage earlier? If so, it'd be much appreciated if you shared your experiences.

Yager GT 200i / Recommended maintenance schedule

« on: April 13, 2011, 06:22:18 AM »

The following was taken from the Kymco Dink 200 service manual (page 3-2). The Dink 200 is the carbureted version of our Yager GT 200i.

I = Inspect, Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace as necessary
A = Adjust
C = Clean
R = Replace
T = Tighten

Recommended maintenance schedule:
(for new bikes)
300 km (186 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
R - gear oil

(over 12000 km start over here)
1000 km (621 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
R - gear oil
I - air filter
I - brake system
I - steering head bearing

2000 km (1242 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
A - valve clearance
I - brake system

3000 km (1864 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
I - brake system
C - spark plug (R - if necessary)

4000 km (2485 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
C - engine oil filter screen
A - valve clearance
I - brake system
I - suspension
I - tires

5000 km (3106 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
R - gear oil
R - air filter
I - brake system
I - brake levers
I - brake shoe wear
I - shock absorbers

6000 km (3728 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
C - spark plug (R - if necessary)
I - brake system
I - steering head bearing
I - radiator core
I - radiator cap

7000 km (4349 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
I - brake system

8000 km (4970 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
C - engine oil filter screen
A - valve clearance
I - brake system
I - drive belt
I - suspension
T - nuts/bolts/fasteners
I - tires
I - steering head bearing

9000 km (5592 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
I - brake system
C - spark plug (R - if necessary)

10000 km (6213 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
R - fuel filter
R - gear oil
R - air cleaner
R - radiator coolant
I - brake system
I - brake levers
I - brake shoe wear
I - shock absorbers

11000 km (6835 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
I - brake system

12000 km (7456 miles):
R - engine oil & filter
A - valve clearance
C - spark plug (R - if necessary)
I - brake system
I - suspension
I - tires
I - steering head bearing
I - radiator core
I - radiator cap

For higher odometer readings, repeat at the frequency interval established here.
Service more frequently when riding in dusty or rainy environs, or when riding mainly at full throttle.

This breaks down to the following schedule:
Engine oil & filter - first replace at 300 km (186 miles), then replace at 1000 km (621 miles), then replace at 1000 km (621 miles) intervals.

Engine oil filter screen - clean at 4000 km (2485 miles) intervals.

Fuel filter - replace at 10000 km (6213 miles) intervals.

Gear oil - first replace at 300 km (186 miles), then replace at 1000 km (621 miles), then replace at 5000 km (3106 miles), then replace at 5000 km (3106 miles) intervals.

Valve clearance - first adjust at 2000 km (1242 miles), then adjust at 4000 km (2485 miles), then adjust at 4000 km (2485 miles) intervals.

Air cleaner - first inspect at 1000 km (621 miles), then replace at 5000 km (3106 miles), then replace at 5000 km (3106 miles) intervals.

Spark plug - clean at 3000 km (1864 miles) intervals, replace as necessary.

Brake system - inspect at 1000 km (621 miles) intervals.

Drive belt - inspect at 8000 km (4970 miles) intervals, replace as necessary.

Suspension - inspect at 4000 km (2485 miles) intervals.

Nuts/bolts/fasteners - tighten at 8000 km (4970 miles) intervals.

Tires - inspect at 4000 km (2485 miles) intervals, replace as necessary.

Steering head bearing - first inspect at 1000 km (621 miles), then inspect at 6000 km (3728 miles), then inspect at 8000 km (4970 miles), then inspect at 4000 km (2485 miles) intervals.

Brake fluid - inspect during daily pre-ride inspection, replace at 12000 km (7456 miles) intervals.

Radiator coolant - replace annually or at 10000 km (6213 miles) intervals.

Radiator core - inspect at 6000 km (3728 miles) intervals.

Radiator cap - inspect at 6000 km (3728 miles) intervals.

Brake levers - inspect at 5000 km (3106 miles) intervals.

Brake shoes - inspect at 5000 km (3106 miles) intervals, replace as necessary.

Shock absorbers - inspect at 5000 km (3106 miles) intervals.

General Discussion / Click the link!

« on: March 10, 2011, 07:21:30 AM »

As someone who's run websites before, I can tell you that it can get pretty expensive. John Adamo foots the bill to run KymcoForum.com, and it's a great service he's providing to all of us. There's a wealth of knowledge here that's freely accessible to everyone.

As such, we want to be sure this site remains around for the long term.

So, if you'll notice the Google Ads in the upper-right-hand corner of each page, please feel free to click on those links if you see something interesting. Each time you do, John receives a bit of money to help keep KymcoForum.com going.

If you could each do that once a day (which shouldn't take more than a couple minutes out of your day), it'd provide enough income to keep the forum up indefinitely.

Thanks to John Adamo for providing this excellent site, and thanks to all the contributors for the vast knowledge you've shared.

Yager GT 200i / Scooter theft recovery

« on: March 08, 2011, 12:36:18 AM »

Just found a great little app for cell phones running Windows Mobile. It's called CatchMe.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=502214

You don't have to have an internet connection or data package with your cell phone provider, just text messaging. The phone also has to be GPS-enabled (i.e.: it can pick up the satellite GPS signals, but those are free).

Here's how I envision it:
You buy a Windows Mobile phone and get a pre-paid calling plan with text messaging. You mount the phone under the body of the scooter, and wire up a charging system to keep the phone battery charged.

If you find your scooter's been stolen, you send a text message to the scooter-phone. When the scooter-phone receives that text message, it sends a text message back to you with it's location.

This is much better than having to use a data-enabled phone, since text messages can get through where voice and data often can't (I know this, because in our shop at work, there's not enough signal to get even one bar, so I can't call my wife, but I can easily text message her).

By sending a text message to the scooter-phone every 10 or 15 minutes, you can determine if the scooter's still on the move, or if the thief has parked it somewhere.

What's really cool is that this software can act like a homing beacon. While you can request the scooter-phone's position from any text-messaging enabled phone, if you're running Windows Mobile on your phone, as well, it'll actually tell you how far away the scooter-phone is, and which direction to go to catch up to the scooter-phone.

Anyone want to test this? I'm still using an old Nokia E62 (Symbian) phone, so I have to wait until my wife lets me upgrade.

Yager GT 200i / Torque wrench?

« on: March 03, 2011, 02:47:11 AM »

I've been looking all over for a good quality torque wrench that won't cost me an arm and a leg (I've seen torque wrenches that are over $1000.00!).

I'd prefer a beam wrench or dial wrench over the click-stop type torque wrenches.

I can't seem to find very many that are within the torque range we require, but I did find one. You'd have to do conversions to get the torque units right, but that's just math:

Grainger, Item #4RYK9
0-800 inch-pounds
$35.65

The Dink 200 service manual states that the lowest-torque bolt is .4 kg-m (about 34.7 inch pounds), and the highest is 9.0 kg-m (about 781 inch pounds). So, this torque wrench should work pretty well.

Anyone know of a better alternative to the torque wrench above?

Yager GT 200i / Handheld engine diagnostic tool

« on: February 26, 2011, 01:32:29 PM »

I found what appears to be a couple of options for doing diagnostics on the engine and fuel injection system of the Yager GT 200i scooter.
http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.jorsindo.com%2Fviewthread.php%3Ftid%3D2121833&act=url

First is a small monochrome-screen handheld diagnostic tool:
Handheld Diagnostic Tool: Part number 3620A-LEB2-900, 2019-0801331
3620A-LEB2-E00 (English version) or 3620A-LEB2-900 (what I'm assuming to be the Chinese version).

The alternative to the above tool is an RS-232 Linker and Power Supply, for linking to a PDA device:
Kymco RS-232 Linker and power supply: 36200-KKE2-900 PDA RS232 SJ25AB Ref Model G3 125

There's also software for Windows Mobile or Windows CE, called Kymco DTool, that you have to download and install on your PDA from the Kymco website, but I've yet to find a link.

It appears these devices are manufactured in Taiwan by:
http://www.autoland.com.tw

I'm trying to get in contact with AutoLand Taiwan and Kymco Taiwan to see if I can buy one of the diagnostic tools.

Yager GT 200i / Oil

« on: February 25, 2011, 06:41:27 PM »

Below is a link to a page talking about the Kymco scooter manual stating that a SG-rated 15W-40 oil must be used. Turns out, the SG rating for oil is OLD (I think it's now up to SM rating), and the Kymco rep states that a regular 10W-40 automobile oil should be just fine.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1692715

Now that we've established that we CAN use either 10W-40 or 15W-40 oil in our scooter engines, which is the best one? Well, that's a tough thing to figure out.

As for me, because it's a high-revving engine, I want to be sure that there's no foaming, and little viscosity breakdown over the life of the oil.

So, after engine break-in (in which I'll be using a conventional 15W-40 oil and changing the oil and filter very frequently (ie.: after ~25 miles, then ~50, then ~100, then ~200, then ~400, then ~800, then ~1600), I'll be using a diesel-rated synthetic 10W-40. Oil and filter change interval after break-in will be every 1000 miles.

The diesel-rated synthetic oils not only have more detergent in them to keep the engine clean, but they've got anti-foaming agents, and stand up to extreme use better, so there's less viscosity breakdown.

Keep in mind that motorcycle oils don't have the friction modifiers that automotive and diesel oils have, because those friction modifiers can cause the motorcycle clutch to slip. So they're less 'slippery' than other oils. If you have metal-to-metal contact (piston scuffing, etc.), you won't have as much protection as with an automotive or diesel oil.

Yager GT 200i / Oil Filter

« on: February 23, 2011, 07:06:38 AM »

The OEM oil filter for the Kymco Yager GT 200i is apparently Part# 1541A-KKC3-900 Model# SH30DB $19.00

There is an alternative, from Britain I believe, that KymcoForum member CROSSBOLT found. It's called the HiFlo Filtro HF562. It's an exact replacement for the OEM filter, except it's got more pleats (and hence more surface area, and hence more flow).

Now, if you do a Google search on that filter, you'll get a whole heap of websites overseas that are selling it, and if you do an advanced search to filter those out, for some reason you won't get many results of American companies selling this filter.

But, I found one:
DennisKirk.com
Part #: 304961
$3.90

I just ordered 10 of them. Shipping was around $8.00 for the cheapest shipping option, but they've got plenty of other shipping options if you need the filters fast.

Yager GT 200i / Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - FEB 2011

« on: February 23, 2011, 05:33:53 AM »

I'll be recording my maintenance and other events on my Kymco Yager GT 200i here. This will give me the incentive to ensure that all maintenance is done in a timely manner, and will allow others to glean ideas for maintenance on their own bikes.

====================

-----
14 Feb 2011:
New 2010 Kymco Yager GT 200i delivered from Rock Ridge Scooters. $400 off listed price for last year's model. Mileage: 1
-----
16 Feb 2011:
Geico insurance switched from old Tank scooter to new Kymco scooter, $97.00 / year
-----
20 Feb 2011:
I'll be compiling a toolkit that'll stay with the scooter, and a toolkit that'll stay in the garage. I've already got a large collection of SAE and metric wrenches and sockets, so I need scooter-specific incidentals.

Got the following from O'Reilly (Kragen) Auto Parts:
Feeler gauge
Oil drain pan
Small funnels
Non-permanent, medium strength thread lock
Fuses (20A {x2}, 15A {x4}, 10A {x2})
Tire valve core remover
Oil 15W-40 SM Rated conventional
Antifreeze (O'Reilly Antifreeze and Coolant, Black Bottle)
RedLine Water-Wetter
Tire pressure gauge
Slime tire sealant (12 oz. bottle)
DOT 4 brake fluid
Extra Iridium spark plugs (ordered them, not in stock)
Foot-operated air pump

Got the following from Home Depot:
Snap-lock pliers
Large toolbox
Work light with clamp
Duct tape (small roll)
Multi-screwdriver (long)

Added 5 capfuls (1.25 ounces) of RedLine Water Wetter to coolant system.

First ride. Doing a hard break-in procedure as described here:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
-----
23 Feb 2011:
Ordered 10 oil filters. HighFlo HF562, part number 304961 ($3.90 each) at DennisKirk.com
-----
26 Feb 2011:
Got two NGK DPR7Eix-9 Iridium spark plugs from O'Reilly (Kragen) Auto Parts.
-----

Yager GT 200i / Spark Plug, conventional and Iridium

« on: February 23, 2011, 04:10:05 AM »

The Kymco Yager GT 200i manual states that the following spark plug is to be used:
NGK DPR6EA-9 (standard)

NGK makes an iridium plug that will work for our scooter, but it's one heat range cooler than our OEM plugs:
NGK DPR7Eix-9 (iridium)

You can get these plugs from Kragen/OReilly auto parts (although they're not usually in stock. I had to get two of them shipped to my nearest store from another store).

According to Denso (another spark plug manufacturer), a good cross-reference plug is:
X20EPR-U9 (standard)

Or, for an iridium plug from Denso, it is also one heat range cooler than our OEM plugs:
IX22B (iridium)

The heat range of a spark plug determines how well it will survive in the environment inside the cylinder. Too hot, and you get melting, blistering and breakage of the spark plug metal and ceramic.
Too cold, and you get fouling of the plug.

Personally, if I couldn't find the exact right heat range plug, I'd rather go with the next colder range than the next hotter range.

I believe the NGK iridium plug would be a good fit for our scooters, despite the fact that it's one heat range cooler. The iridium plugs are very resistant to fouling, and our fuel-injected Yagers simply don't foul plugs like a carbureted engine does, because the fuel metering is more precise (i.e.: when you crank open the throttle on a carbureted bike, the cylinder gets a dose of rich fuel/air mix from the accelerator pump or power jet (which is often poorly tuned on small carburetors and just dumps a lot of fuel into the intake during rapid throttle opening to prevent lean-out bogging) until the engine gets up to speed and the air intake velocity can draw fuel from the float bowl, which can lead to earlier plug fouling).

The thing that really causes the most plug fouling is running the engine at a low RPM for long periods of time. But because we're running a CVT, the engine speed is nearly always high (I was riding at 12 MPH today in a parking lot, and my RPM was 4000!), so that's another reason that a plug one heat range cooler than stock should be OK. If you need to clean the plug, it can usually be cleaned up pretty well by taking the scooter on a long, high-speed run to get the plug up to its self-cleaning temperature so that it can burn off the carbon deposits.

Again, having to ride fast for a while because you're using a plug that's one heat range cooler than stock is a lot better than finding chunks of melted spark plug metal or chunks of broken spark plug ceramic in your cylinder because you're running a spark plug that's too hot.

Another thing that tells me that running a spark plug that is one heat range cooler than the manual specifies is that the carbureted Dink 200 service manual specifies a NGK DP7EA9 spark plug, which is the same heat range of the Iridium plugs I've got.