1
For Sale / Yager GT 200i fs in Colorado.
« on: August 13, 2019, 04:08:02 PM »
Msg me for details.
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2
Downtown 300 / DT 300i vs Forza 300
« on: April 03, 2017, 08:03:56 PM »
Considering both of these for my wife's bigger scoot.
She has a Yager 200i now for around town, but need something that she can stay with my 650 Vstrom when we multi-day tour.
Also considering a BV350 for the upright motorcycle ergos, but like the wind protection on these bikes.
How do they compare for long tours reliability wise?
The Forza is made in Thailand and the DT Taiwan.
Worried the DT seat is too low/uncomfortable for all day touring.
What are the know DT issues that must be addressed?
The early Forzas had waterpump and fuel pump issues.
She has a Yager 200i now for around town, but need something that she can stay with my 650 Vstrom when we multi-day tour.
Also considering a BV350 for the upright motorcycle ergos, but like the wind protection on these bikes.
How do they compare for long tours reliability wise?
The Forza is made in Thailand and the DT Taiwan.
Worried the DT seat is too low/uncomfortable for all day touring.
What are the know DT issues that must be addressed?
The early Forzas had waterpump and fuel pump issues.
3
Yager GT 200i / Is it normal to have continuity (ground) thru the starter body up to the relay?
« on: October 27, 2016, 09:46:57 PM »
If i touch the starter side of my relay solenoid and frame ground i get continuity.
Is this normal thru the starter body then windings then on to the cable that leads to the relay solenoid.
I know the starter body does have ground but was suprised to find ground thru to the wire up at the realy.
Is this normal thru the starter body then windings then on to the cable that leads to the relay solenoid.
I know the starter body does have ground but was suprised to find ground thru to the wire up at the realy.
4
Technical | How To / Can I use a regulator/rectifier from a different model on my Yager 200i?
« on: October 27, 2016, 06:12:02 AM »
These models have this updated cooling fins.
I run in hot enviros.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYMCO-Downtown-125-200-300-People-GT-200-300-Genuine-Regulator-Rectifier-/181930970411?hash=item2a5bee4d2b:g:0OQAAOSwkZhWRU34&vxp=mtr
The R/R electrics is just the black box and the rest of the part is just a cooling sink.
My R/R (D406/31600-LDG7-900) looks exactly like the old one in the pic.
Obviously the cooling sink design was updated. These models are newer than my Yager.
Is there really any variation differences with these 3 pole R/R designs???
Are there really any differences or does Kymco just like to use unique part # per model.
I was told the last part (900) is just the supplier.
The first part 31600 is used for all their R/R from what I see.
It's the middle (LDG7 vs KED9) that is different.
Does Kymco use a part # naming gaming OR are there truly differences?
Thanks!
I run in hot enviros.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYMCO-Downtown-125-200-300-People-GT-200-300-Genuine-Regulator-Rectifier-/181930970411?hash=item2a5bee4d2b:g:0OQAAOSwkZhWRU34&vxp=mtr
The R/R electrics is just the black box and the rest of the part is just a cooling sink.
My R/R (D406/31600-LDG7-900) looks exactly like the old one in the pic.
Obviously the cooling sink design was updated. These models are newer than my Yager.
Is there really any variation differences with these 3 pole R/R designs???
Are there really any differences or does Kymco just like to use unique part # per model.
I was told the last part (900) is just the supplier.
The first part 31600 is used for all their R/R from what I see.
It's the middle (LDG7 vs KED9) that is different.
Does Kymco use a part # naming gaming OR are there truly differences?
Thanks!
5
Technical | How To / Starting issues with a Yager 200i
« on: August 24, 2016, 05:50:17 PM »
posted in the Yager section but thought I open this up to all Kymco gurus.
Backstory:
Bought a 2010 Yager 200i with 900 miles on a few weeks ago. Clean and no rust.
Shop stated previous owner traded it because it was having battery problems. Added a Battery Tender lead to charge every night or would not start in the am.
When I picked up shop installed a new traditional Interstate battery.
This battery lasted about 6 days then would not start so I started using my Battery Tender Jr.
Replaced it with a Scorpion YT12a-bs (175cca)
After a week same starting problem again so back to using Tender.
I cleaned (wire brush) & di-electric greased frame ground plus connections at the starting relay/solenoid assy. All connection were tight from factory.
When the motor runs it’s strong with no issues or misses. Have run several tanks of gas in it. Changed oil, new spark plug, clean air filter.
With a fresh charged battery it starts fast and idles well. Starts every time however with my Lithium battery jumper box.
Findings:
-battery holds 12.5v when sitting for days (disconnected)
-scooter charges at 13.9-14v consistently at idle & speed
-on a 10amp scale, the negative wire & negative battery post draws 0.01 key off
-on a 10amp scale, the negative wire & negative battery post draws 5.4 amps key on. Normal?
-continuity is 0 on the negative battery side to all frame points and engine
-continuity is 0 from positive battery to starter relay battery side
-no continuity across the starter relay when off
-continuity is 0 from the starter side of the relay to where the positive attaches to the starter
PLUS is 0 to all ground points on frame/engine. No voltage just continuity. Is this normal to have continuity across the positive to the negative thru the starter?
Observation:
ok here are things i tested in this order.
battery fully charged overnight.
cold engine
key off - .01 amp draw between neg battery & ground. no parasitic drain.
key on - 5.40 amp draw. normal range?
key off - 12.8v
key on - holds steady at 11.9v for well over a minute (no drop)
engine starts like a champ & runs well.
13.9v while running
turn engine off for 1 minute
key off - 12.5v
key on - voltage drops quickly to bellow 11 in less than 30 sec
will not start now.
recharged battery fully to test voltage drop when starting at 2 points
pos & neg battery terminal: +/- 10.6v
pos & neg at starter terminal: +/- 8.6v
so i'm seeing a approx 2v difference down at the starter
Conclusion:
so I get 1 good start, then something happens?
heading now to parts store to test load ability of this battery.
normally I would say this is a bad battery, but it's the 3rd in a row so something is causing batteries to fail?
Where should I go here to determine what is causing this battery/heavy drain issue?
Buying yet another battery does not should like the solution.
I love this scooter and don’t want to trade it in on something else, but it’s far from no surprises right now.
thanks
Bill
Backstory:
Bought a 2010 Yager 200i with 900 miles on a few weeks ago. Clean and no rust.
Shop stated previous owner traded it because it was having battery problems. Added a Battery Tender lead to charge every night or would not start in the am.
When I picked up shop installed a new traditional Interstate battery.
This battery lasted about 6 days then would not start so I started using my Battery Tender Jr.
Replaced it with a Scorpion YT12a-bs (175cca)
After a week same starting problem again so back to using Tender.
I cleaned (wire brush) & di-electric greased frame ground plus connections at the starting relay/solenoid assy. All connection were tight from factory.
When the motor runs it’s strong with no issues or misses. Have run several tanks of gas in it. Changed oil, new spark plug, clean air filter.
With a fresh charged battery it starts fast and idles well. Starts every time however with my Lithium battery jumper box.
Findings:
-battery holds 12.5v when sitting for days (disconnected)
-scooter charges at 13.9-14v consistently at idle & speed
-on a 10amp scale, the negative wire & negative battery post draws 0.01 key off
-on a 10amp scale, the negative wire & negative battery post draws 5.4 amps key on. Normal?
-continuity is 0 on the negative battery side to all frame points and engine
-continuity is 0 from positive battery to starter relay battery side
-no continuity across the starter relay when off
-continuity is 0 from the starter side of the relay to where the positive attaches to the starter
PLUS is 0 to all ground points on frame/engine. No voltage just continuity. Is this normal to have continuity across the positive to the negative thru the starter?
Observation:
ok here are things i tested in this order.
battery fully charged overnight.
cold engine
key off - .01 amp draw between neg battery & ground. no parasitic drain.
key on - 5.40 amp draw. normal range?
key off - 12.8v
key on - holds steady at 11.9v for well over a minute (no drop)
engine starts like a champ & runs well.
13.9v while running
turn engine off for 1 minute
key off - 12.5v
key on - voltage drops quickly to bellow 11 in less than 30 sec
will not start now.
recharged battery fully to test voltage drop when starting at 2 points
pos & neg battery terminal: +/- 10.6v
pos & neg at starter terminal: +/- 8.6v
so i'm seeing a approx 2v difference down at the starter
Conclusion:
so I get 1 good start, then something happens?
heading now to parts store to test load ability of this battery.
normally I would say this is a bad battery, but it's the 3rd in a row so something is causing batteries to fail?
Where should I go here to determine what is causing this battery/heavy drain issue?
Buying yet another battery does not should like the solution.
I love this scooter and don’t want to trade it in on something else, but it’s far from no surprises right now.
thanks
Bill
6
Yager GT 200i / Has anyone tried drilling the exhaust, next to the outlet pipe, for better flow?
« on: April 19, 2016, 03:57:12 AM »
Anyone? I've searched on on the Yager & the Dink and came up blank world wide???
There is room there in the open space inside the opening on the plastic end cap.
On some machines they are slightly louder but run better.
If it does not work, you can use self taping screws and just plug the holes back up or weld it shut.
There is room there in the open space inside the opening on the plastic end cap.
On some machines they are slightly louder but run better.
If it does not work, you can use self taping screws and just plug the holes back up or weld it shut.
7
Yager GT 200i / Proper spark plug gap & Iridium?
« on: April 13, 2016, 08:49:22 PM »
New 2010 Yager owner here w/ only 800 miles. 
Loving it so far.
The manual I have says .9mm, but the sticker on the battery access panel says .6-7mm.
What is correct? The oem NGK in there was gapped to .8mm (it has only 800 miles on it)
The -9 is suppose to be .9mm and that agrees with the manual, but conflicts with the sticker.
I also tried a Autolite XS4164 Iridium (suppose to be a DRP6ea-9 cross) but the engine runs worse with it.
Idles rougher, but does rev out just fine.
Wondering if adjusting the Autolite to spec will help or are those not good in this motor?
I run Iridium (NGK or Denso) in every other motor I own and I so am a true fan.
There is no DPR6EIX-9 but there is a 7 (colder plug). Denso has nothing in the 6 range.
Local parts guy said NGK use to sell a 6 Iridium in this size but stopped for some reason.
Anyone use a DPR7EIX-9 successfully or do I just stick with the oem copper NGK?
Yager200i says use a Pulstar HE1HT9 spark plug. How about those? They are new to me.
Thanks, Bill
Loving it so far. The manual I have says .9mm, but the sticker on the battery access panel says .6-7mm.
What is correct? The oem NGK in there was gapped to .8mm (it has only 800 miles on it)
The -9 is suppose to be .9mm and that agrees with the manual, but conflicts with the sticker.
I also tried a Autolite XS4164 Iridium (suppose to be a DRP6ea-9 cross) but the engine runs worse with it.
Idles rougher, but does rev out just fine.
Wondering if adjusting the Autolite to spec will help or are those not good in this motor?
I run Iridium (NGK or Denso) in every other motor I own and I so am a true fan.
There is no DPR6EIX-9 but there is a 7 (colder plug). Denso has nothing in the 6 range.
Local parts guy said NGK use to sell a 6 Iridium in this size but stopped for some reason.
Anyone use a DPR7EIX-9 successfully or do I just stick with the oem copper NGK?
Yager200i says use a Pulstar HE1HT9 spark plug. How about those? They are new to me.
Thanks, Bill
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