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Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: mousejunks on November 01, 2016, 12:12:08 PM
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My DT300i passed the 45,000km mark a few weeks ago and I have made up a list of things which failed but were fixed.
- The plastic cover over the magnetic part of the key was peeling off. I ripped it off and covered the gap with epoxy glue to prevent it from further damage.
- Seat won't close - adjusted the two seat cables to increase the tension, also making it easier to open with the key.
- Oil leak from right crankcase cover - there is a small circular cover on the right side of the engine. This can simply be tightened with a coin or sealed up with gasket maker. There was also an oil leak from where the wires insert into the stator, also sealed up with gasket maker.
- Indicators won't cancel - the left handlebar controls were disassembled and a blob of solder was put onto the pin that actuated the sliding switch.
- Yellow cracked windshield - replaced
- Holes in air filter - the air filter box has an intake tube that came loose. This caused it to move around and damaged the paper element of the air filter. The tube was glued back into place and the air filter replaced.
- Exhaust muffler paint fade - repainted with high-heat black paint (Dupli-Color brand).
- Exhaust muffler cover wobbling - the rubber around bolts breaks down due to heat from the muffler, as well as dropping the bike. I simply removed the cover.
Despite these issues, they did not affect the mechanical reliability of the bike. It starts everytime and runs smoothly and I expect it to last for many more years. I also bought it second-hand without any servicing history, so it was mistreated before I owned it - the cracked headlight housing and black grime in the transmission were clues.
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28000 miles for us yanks is not bad! Kinda speaks for DT300i reliability plus you mech/tech skills!
Karl
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I think that's about equal to one trip around the equator. I'm still a baby. I just crossed over 9k miles, or 14,484.096 kilometers.
- Wolf
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Mine just reached 41000kms. Here is my list:
1) Had the small exhaust cover fall off.
Replaced it.
2) Engine wouldn't crank.
Had to clean out the contacts on the starter switch as it was gunked up with crap which prevented electrical contact.
3) Oil leak from that huge screw above the oil filler plug.
Tightened it up with a screwdriver.
4) Breather hose from rear hub to airbox came loose and leaked that oil all over the rear hub and wheel.
Placed back the hose.
5) Exhaust cover rattling.
Rubber grommets crumpled into pieces, left it as it is.
6) Micro cracks in windscreen, and it's yellowing due to the UV rays.
Left as is.
7) Steering head bearings were notched.
Replaced the top and lower steering cone bearings.
8.) Throttle cable snapped.
Replaced with new item.
9) Front wheel bearing failed.
Replaced with new bearings (1 pair).
10) Radiator fluid reservoir mounting screw fell off.
Used a zip tie to get it back in place.
11) Engine wouldn't crank.
Replaced spark plug, but I guess that's my fault for not changing it.
12) Bolt holding down the airbox and rear hugger fell off.
Replaced wit a new bolt.
13) Caddy Hook, some plastic part broke off, so now it doesn't spring back into place.
Left it as it is.
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Great info! My 2005 GV250 is aging and has 20K miles but still starts right up so I'm looking around. Also the rear fender broke off - with the help of a Mercedes which hit me while I was stopped at a stop sign!
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2011 downtown 85,000 Km.+ main thing wrong is wearing out tires, to fast , found a leak right side cover spot of oil after ride fixed it- bought a 2009 frost - yager , now only thing wrong is to much snow,
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Congrats, De Dee. Sounds like you’ll have plenty of fun come early Spring.
- Wolf
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There has been many posts about DT300 here but I have never seen any about DT125 ,is there anyone here having experience of owning or riding Downtown 125 cc ?Is it as reliable as DT300 ?
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My DT300i passed the 45,000km mark a few weeks ago and I have made up a list of things which failed but were fixed.
- The plastic cover over the magnetic part of the key was peeling off. I ripped it off and covered the gap with epoxy glue to prevent it from further damage.
- Seat won't close - adjusted the two seat cables to increase the tension, also making it easier to open with the key.
- Oil leak from right crankcase cover - there is a small circular cover on the right side of the engine. This can simply be tightened with a coin or sealed up with gasket maker. There was also an oil leak from where the wires insert into the stator, also sealed up with gasket maker.
- Indicators won't cancel - the left handlebar controls were disassembled and a blob of solder was put onto the pin that actuated the sliding switch.
- Yellow cracked windshield - replaced
- Holes in air filter - the air filter box has an intake tube that came loose. This caused it to move around and damaged the paper element of the air filter. The tube was glued back into place and the air filter replaced.
- Exhaust muffler paint fade - repainted with high-heat black paint (Dupli-Color brand).
- Exhaust muffler cover wobbling - the rubber around bolts breaks down due to heat from the muffler, as well as dropping the bike. I simply removed the cover.
Despite these issues, they did not affect the mechanical reliability of the bike. It starts everytime and runs smoothly and I expect it to last for many more years. I also bought it second-hand without any servicing history, so it was mistreated before I owned it - the cracked headlight housing and black grime in the transmission were clues.
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Good maintenance ! How often do you do the oil change for your downtown?
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2011 downtown 300i oil changes , 3200 Km. ( 2000 MILES) full syn. oil, oil changes done HOT,. since new!! gear oil and engine at same time,. switched from mobil 1 5W 50 to rotela T6 5 W 40 at 50,000 Km. both seem to work fine,. in the gears I use valvaline 75/145 full Syn. on changes it looks like new oil,
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2011 downtown 300i oil changes , 3200 Km. ( 2000 MILES) full syn. oil, oil changes done HOT,. since new!! gear oil and engine at same time,. switched from mobil 1 5W 50 to rotela T6 5 W 40 at 50,000 Km. both seem to work fine,. in the gears I use valvaline 75/145 full Syn. on changes it looks like new oil,
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Thanks de dee !
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Good maintenance ! How often do you do the oil change for your downtown?
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I change my engine oil every 4000-5000km and gear oil every 5000-10000km. The gear oil always comes out clear straw-coloured with no bits.
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I'm almost at 50,000km so I replaced the drive belt. The old one was a Kymco Mitsuboshi, the new one was just Kymco. My commutes are mostly highway so there was barely any wear or damage to the belt after 15,000km, just slight glazing on the sides.
One tip when replacing belts - ALWAYS greases the splines where the axle contacts the variator. They will rust and seize together if you don't.
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There has been many posts about DT300 here but I have never seen any about DT125 ,is there anyone here having experience of owning or riding Downtown 125 cc ?Is it as reliable as DT300 ?
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I got a Downtown 125i -13 model.
Only got around 12 000km on it.
Replaced the tires for Power Pure SC on the 10k mark. Can recommend these!
Changed engine and gear-oil every year and replaced filters.
Replaced variator rollers as they was starting to get flat spots (@11k).
Replaced the battery last season as it died during winter storage.
No noticeable wear beyond cosmetics. No oil sweating or suspect noises.
From time to time my clutch will be a bit "jumpy" on takeoff, but I think this has to do more with longer periods of non-use.
All in all very content with the scooter.
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put a charger on the battery, for cold weather, find a smart charger that cuts off,and on, to not over charge
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I got a Downtown 125i -13 model.
Only got around 12 000km on it.
Replaced the tires for Power Pure SC on the 10k mark. Can recommend these!
Changed engine and gear-oil every year and replaced filters.
Replaced variator rollers as they was starting to get flat spots (@11k).
Replaced the battery last season as it died during winter storage.
No noticeable wear beyond cosmetics. No oil sweating or suspect noises.
From time to time my clutch will be a bit "jumpy" on takeoff, but I think this has to do more with longer periods of non-use.
All in all very content with the scooter.
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Many thanks for your reply !
I am planning to trade my agility 150 with a new downtown 125/250 cc. I am in a doubt if 125 cc downtown will perform strong take offs in a city riding Or I will miss 250 cc engine in cases I have my wife with me to enjoy the ride( total weight of us two will be about 390 pounds).
Since you have had the experience of riding your 125 cc downtown for almost three years I will be grateful to know your idea ! I am not thinking about wide open throttle riding style,Torque power in the low and average rpm is more joyful for me...
Thanks !
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I got a Downtown 125i -13 model.
Only got around 12 000km on it.
Replaced the tires for Power Pure SC on the 10k mark. Can recommend these!
Changed engine and gear-oil every year and replaced filters.
Replaced variator rollers as they was starting to get flat spots (@11k).
Replaced the battery last season as it died during winter storage.
No noticeable wear beyond cosmetics. No oil sweating or suspect noises.
From time to time my clutch will be a bit "jumpy" on takeoff, but I think this has to do more with longer periods of non-use.
All in all very content with the scooter.
Many thanks for your reply !
I am planning to trade my agility 150 with a new downtown 125/250 cc. I am in a doubt if 125 cc downtown will perform strong take offs in a city riding Or I will miss 250 cc engine in cases I have my wife with me to enjoy the ride( total weight of us two will be about 390 pounds).
Since you have had the experience of riding your 125 cc downtown for almost three years I will be grateful to know your idea ! I am not thinking about wide open throttle riding style,Torque power in the low and average rpm is more joyful for me...
Thanks !
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I find that the DT 125i is very adequate for my use; that is mainly driving within city limits where speed limits is <80 km/h.
- When in start-stop traffic and up to around 50 km/h the DT 125 is plenty fast and usually more snappy than surrounding traffic. Within city limits I very rarely suffer from lack of power.
- From 60-80 Km/h the acceleration is adequate (As in not attracting aggression from other motorists), but I have to use all 15 horses to get up to speed.
- Cruise speed of 80-85 is possible for all but the heaviest of slopes. RPM @6500-7000
- Acceleration from 80 km/h to top speed of 110 km/h is anaemic and very, very slow.
- Overtaking in a DT 125i should not happen above 70 km/h as there is no power surplus.
Overall the DT125 feels and rides as a proper big scooter as long as the speed is kept low. It handles very well despite it's large size. As far as I know it shares the frame, brakes and suspension as the bigger bore variant, making it a better built 125cc scooter than most other competitors. In roundabouts I am as fast as anybody else, the bosch ABS brakes are wonderful and storage is great. My biggest gripe is the cramped footpositioning and the stock windshield that created serious buffeting. I solved the latter with a Dremel and about 10cm lower wind-shield.
Fuel consumption is about 3L/100km
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Thanks a lot Haarek !
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Fascinating report of a large frame scooter with smaller engine!
Something we will never experience in the States. Here, for the most part, in the Land of Horsepower, wheelbase follows engine size - which, for urban riding, is a shame.
Thanks for your report.
What country?
Stig
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I'm from Norway.
My licence let me ride all bikes from 50cc to 1200cc + but I have never felt the need for big bore motorcycles or scooters.
The only time I miss having more power is for the odd overtaking or for long ascents, crossing mountains etc. For everything else I love the lighter weight and efficiency of a small bore.
Because of how regulations are set up in this part of the world there isn't really any market for the "welterweights" like 200cc and 250cc bikes. Instead a standard bike in my country is either a 50cc scoot, a 125cc screamer (driven by a teen) or a 800cc + full-size motorcycle.
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I for one would ABSOLUTELY LOVE a T-Max 530.
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+1! :)
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As for brisk launches from traffic lights... I am under the impression that even small engined scooters are designed to out-jump the surrounding auto traffic almost every time.
Urban traffic situations seems to be where most scooters are designed to live their lives....with the occasional rural jaunt.
Big engined scooters probably make up a small % of scooters sold worldwide....but can haul the mail once underway!
There are darn few scooter congested intersections awaiting a green light in Ohio.°¿°Stig
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Hi all,
Any of you experience your DT having a hard time to start up after leaving it for a week?
Every time I go away on a trip, upon returning home my DT doesn't start up as usual. I'll have to keep cranking while opening the throttle until finally she fires up.
Of course I do not crank more than 10 seconds each time.
Plug is good, fuel pump is running. I sounds like the engine is flooded. Also once she starts, I will have to maintain a throttle or she'll die. After 10 secs of my manual choke, she'll then be alright.
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Its winter here now in Sweden and i start up the DT once a month to get it warm.
It always starts immidtly on the first try, and it sounds as it was used everyday.
So i guess you have some kind of trouble
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Kneeslider, vent the gas cap! The vacuum valve is sticking.
Karl
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Hi, to vent tje gas cap I simple just open and close it right?
But how do I fix a sticky vacumn valve & where is it located?
Kneeslider, vent the gas cap! The vacuum valve is sticking.
Karl
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Pulling the cap will vent it temporarily. I'm talking drill a hole in the cap. I have a post on here that shows how and where (last of the pictures I have been able to post). The vent valve, vacuum actuated, is in an impossible place to access. It IS accessible but will take hours and hours of removing stuff to get to it. It is just more practical to drill a hole. The DT300i cap looks like it was made for that hole to be where I put it. Find the pics and it will make sense. I have had ZERO start, idle, run problems since the cap was vented. Used to do the TPS/ISC RESET procedure to solve the problem but don't have to do that anymore. Do not know why reset would work anyway but it did. Dealers did not know how to solve the problem or what the cause. All that was solved here.
Karl
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Didn't someone mention before that the gas tank is a pressurized unit which if it's not, the bike won't run properly?
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When it is pressurized with either positive or negative pressure is when the engine runs badly or not at all. The tank should be vented to atmosphere anytime the engine is running.
Karl
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One tip when replacing belts - ALWAYS greases the splines where the axle contacts the variator. They will rust and seize together if you don't.
I do not understand exactly where to put grease. What kind of grease i should use, I suspect it needs to resist heat.
I can see a little bit of rust has started there, but i dont want it on the belt
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I do not understand exactly where to put grease. What kind of grease i should use, I suspect it needs to resist heat.
I can see a little bit of rust has started there, but i dont want it on the belt
When you remove the variator from the drive shaft, there are splines on the shaft that hold the variator in place. You can apply a thin layer of hi-temp grease so they slide on/off easily at the next time of disassembly. I used Inox MX6, but you can also use wheel bearing grease as well, e.g. Valvoline Valplex.
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Guys,
I have done 49,000kms on my DT 200.
I have never replaced my rollers, variator nor the clutch. How can I tell if they need replacement?
Thanks.
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Guys,
I have done 49,000kms on my DT 200.
I have never replaced my rollers, variator nor the clutch. How can I tell if they need replacement?
Thanks.
Variator - check the inside drive faces for ridges or pits. If so, replace both variator plates.
Rollers - remove them and measure them. They should be 20x12 mm. However if you do little start stop traffic they wear is unlikely.
Clutch - remove the bell and measure the friction pads. There should be more than 2mm.
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When you remove the variator from the drive shaft, there are splines on the shaft that hold the variator in place. You can apply a thin layer of hi-temp grease so they slide on/off easily at the next time of disassembly. I used Inox MX6, but you can also use wheel bearing grease as well, e.g. Valvoline Valplex.
Thanks a lot mousejunks 🖒😊
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NICE! I am a baby at only 11000 km's :) This is a good list here and I will go over my bike with the oil leaking part now to be sure all is good. Also the airbox.
My DT300i passed the 45,000km mark a few weeks ago and I have made up a list of things which failed but were fixed.
- The plastic cover over the magnetic part of the key was peeling off. I ripped it off and covered the
gap with epoxy glue to prevent it from further damage.
- Seat won't close - adjusted the two seat cables to increase the tension, also making it easier to open with the key.
- Oil leak from right crankcase cover - there is a small circular cover on the right side of the engine. This can simply be tightened with a coin or sealed up with gasket maker. There was also an oil leak from where the wires insert into the stator, also sealed up with gasket maker.
- Indicators won't cancel - the left handlebar controls were disassembled and a blob of solder was put onto the pin that actuated the sliding switch.
- Yellow cracked windshield - replaced
- Holes in air filter - the air filter box has an intake tube that came loose. This caused it to move around and damaged the paper element of the air filter. The tube was glued back into place and the air filter replaced.
- Exhaust muffler paint fade - repainted with high-heat black paint (Dupli-Color brand).
- Exhaust muffler cover wobbling - the rubber around bolts breaks down due to heat from the muffler, as well as dropping the bike. I simply removed the cover.
Despite these issues, they did not affect the mechanical reliability of the bike. It starts everytime and runs smoothly and I expect it to last for many more years. I also bought it second-hand without any servicing history, so it was mistreated before I owned it - the cracked headlight housing and black grime in the transmission were clues.
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I'm almost at 50,000km ...
One tip when replacing belts - ALWAYS greases the splines where the axle contacts the variator. They will rust and seize together if you don't.
Great tip. My rear variator on my 2005 Grandvista would stick and stay engaged partially at around 18K miles. I dissembled and cleaned everything and replaced both of the large o-rings with ones from Grainger catalog and used mobile 1 synthetic grease and it not only works great but better than ever - no more squeak / squeal when pulling away on a steep hill.
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Same thing when changing tires, grease the drive shaft as the bearing on the right side 'swing arm' will rust and sieze on that shaft.
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Hi Crossbow,
What is the link to your pics on venting the gas cap?
Thanks
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Oh, Shalbern, that' an oldie! I will hunt it down and get back.....
Karl
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Search for:Re: Pressurized fuel tank-DT300. Use "crossbolt" as author and go to page 2. Pictures are there.
Karl