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Topics - hypophthalmus

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16
Technical | How To / Burping coolant with the radiator not full?
« on: August 01, 2017, 05:03:05 PM »
A problem I've had with burping the coolant system is carefully avoiding having the level rise above the neck and spilling coolant everywhere.

I came across a suggestion that seems obvious in retrospect, which is to burp the system with the radiator 1/2 full.

There wouldn't be any problems with that, right?

17
General Discussion / High coolant temperature alarm?
« on: August 01, 2017, 04:02:11 PM »
If the coolant temperature spikes, it can be very easy to miss.

I've been thinking about how one might retrofit an alarm to draw to an engine heat well before you risk damage.

An obvious thing would be to wire a parallel connection to the temperature sensor and read it with a microcontroller. But I've read that having a second connection maybe could alter the temperature readings? But maybe you could drill/tap a hole for a second sensor?

Another idea I had also involves a microcontroller, that is somehow triggered by the gauge itself. But I don't actually have any ideas of how to do that.

18
People 250 / Finding new engine?
« on: July 26, 2017, 01:43:04 PM »
Does anybody have any advice for finding a replacement engine for the People 250?

So far the only ones I've seen are in Italy on Ebay.

Would the S 250 engines fit if I come across one? Or a 300i engine? They look quite similar. The mounting holes for the fork seem like they *might* be in the same position and it looks like you could probably even attach People 250 carburetor.

19
For Sale / Yuasa YUAM3RH2S YTX12-BS Battery - sold
« on: July 17, 2017, 06:41:52 PM »
Selling a Yuasa YUAM3RH2S YTX12-BS Battery for $50. The electrolyte hasn't been added yet, still in the sealed tubes. Shipping within the United States is included in the price.

Edit: lowered the price.

Edit: sold

20
General Discussion / Stay with Kymco?
« on: July 13, 2017, 04:38:58 PM »
As discussed in another thread, my People 250's engine self-destructed at just over 19,000km (12,000ish miles). The timing got off somehow, and the piston collided with the valves, leaving the crankcase full of tiny metal fragments.

It's bothering me that I don't understand what happened. I maintained it religiously, and it seemed to be working great just prior.

It's making me not trust Kymco engines in general, to the point that if I do find a replacement engine, I might decide to sell it. Maybe they're all at the edge of mysterious and catastrophic failure?

On the other hand they're held in generally high regard and the forum isn't full of people with this problem.

21
People 250 / Serious engine troubles
« on: July 06, 2017, 12:26:22 AM »
So I was embarking on a 250ish mile trip. About 100 miles in, I loose power. I look down at the dashboard, and the engine was all the way hot (it was normal the entire trip). The radiator didn't feel very hot.

I let it cool down a bit, and start it again. The needle quickly goes back to the middle. I drive a few more miles, and lose power again. (Don't remember what the needle said this time).

Now it won't start. The starter motor turns, but it doesn't sound like it's cranking normally.

My best guess for what might have happened is I had a coolant hose loose (has a screwed clamp) for a few seconds by accident after I checked my valve clearances. Maybe it sucked in some air?

Thankfully the engine failed 3 miles away from a uhaul (expensive bringing it home though). It could as easily have been 20+ miles to the nearest town.

The engine oil looks pretty normal, but then this happened *very* suddenly, so I don't think it would have gotten much time to mix with coolant.

How should I proceed? Start disassembling and see what the head looks like?

22
General Discussion / Battery or starter solenoid?
« on: July 02, 2017, 07:22:58 PM »
My starter has sometimes sounded weird/weak, and not turning the engine on the first try. Today it mostly stopped turning the engine at all.

After charging the battery for about 5 hours, it did start the engine, but it wouldn't repeat the performance. Once it started, it did seem to be charging (13v with very light throttle).

Before charging it, the voltage read about 12.0v, 10v with the key turned to on. Now it's reading 12.3v, 10v with the key on still. I hear the click from the solenoid.

I thought for sure it was a battery problem, until I tried jumping the starter solenoid. At the moment, it's just clicking if I use the start button, but if I jump the solenoid the starter comes on strong.

Now I'm not sure what to think. I guess it could be that both are failing?

23
General Discussion / Animals in the forest
« on: June 11, 2017, 10:53:34 PM »
I've used my scooter to go camping twice.

Both times, a wild animals tried to burrow into my seat. The first time a bear cub, the second a raccoon.

The racoon was especially problematic, as it had no fear of people. I eventually got it to stop after I charged at it. Even then, it just climbed a couple feet up the nearest tree where I could have just reached out and touched it.

In addition to the damage to the seat (not that bad, but still some holes) I'm thinking this is probably a dangerous practice. Next it could be an adult black bear with no fear of humans.

Any ideas of how to not attract animals?

24
People 250 / Brake rotor issues
« on: June 09, 2017, 05:12:36 PM »
Noticing the front pads were worn, I replaced them.

I noticed a sort of grinding noise, but I figured they might just need to be worn in. I did keep an eye out for grooves in the rotor.

Eventually I noticed a small groove and decided to take it apart again and make sure there weren't any small rocks and such. There didn't seem to be (but I wiped it down anyways), but I did notice two light grooves in one of the brake pads, one in the same location as the groove on the rotor, and one not.

Inspecting the rotor again, I noticed two corresponding points of raised slivers of metal. Using a combination of prying with a screwdriver and *very* light and careful sanding, I got one of them gone (I think), and the other one mostly gone.

I'm wondering what could have caused this, and if I should still be concerned about this.

25
General Discussion / Rear wheel bearing play?
« on: May 27, 2017, 03:19:58 PM »
I noticed there was some play in the rear fork/bracket bearing. So I replaced it, but I think I accidentally hit the seal a little bit since I can see the imprint of some of the rollers underneath. There's a tiny gap at the seal too. Anyways that bearing has play in it too, I assumed because I damaged it.

So I just got a third bearing, and decided to check it on the shaft before doing anything... and sure enough there's a tiny bit of play in this one too. Definitely in the bearing, not the shaft. So.... I guess this type of bearing just has play in it by design and I've been worrying about nothing?

Should I bother paying someone to press in the new bearing?

Edit: Whoops, I meant to post this to the People 250 forum.

26
Technical | How To / Using tow straps to mount tires
« on: May 26, 2017, 07:55:12 PM »
When I was changing my front tire, I found it helpful to use tow straps to hold the tire in the center well once you run out of slack. 2-3 tow straps on 1/3 of the tire seems to do it.

I went straight for this method with my rear tire and it was so much easier.

27
General Discussion / Transmission cleaning / rusty spring question
« on: May 24, 2017, 11:51:07 PM »
There's belt dust everywhere in my transmission. I was thinking of loosing it with a bottle brush, blowing it out, and wiping down all the surfaces with acetone. Inside of the transmission case, pulley surfaces (even those these are pretty clean), variator ramps, clutch bell, etc. Good idea?

 Also, I noticed that the clutch spring is rusty. Is this something I should worry about?

28
General Discussion / Assessing drive belt
« on: May 24, 2017, 09:35:54 PM »
I bought a spare drive belt at 8km, because that's when the manual said to inspect it and I'd rather have one on hand. I don't really remember what it looked like, but I decided it seemed fine.

It's now at 18km, second time I've had the transmission open. It doesn't look obviously bad to me, but I'm not really sure what a worn drive belt looks like. A caliper measures the width to be 22.5mm, and the service limit is limit is 22mm. It has some cracks on the side, and the valleys look a bit frayed, maybe. It doesn't mention anything for thickness.

Here's some pictures:
http://earthwoodjoinery.com/random/photo/scooter/beltat18k/inside.jpg
http://earthwoodjoinery.com/random/photo/scooter/beltat18k/side.jpg
http://earthwoodjoinery.com/random/photo/scooter/beltat18k/outsideside.jpg

It also occurred to me that I'm not sure if belts will dry rot the way that tires do, in which case I ought to just replace it.

Thoughts?

29
People 250 / Rethreading rear axle, replacing nut
« on: May 22, 2017, 10:13:19 PM »
My rear fork is stuck to the rear axle shaft. I tried lightly hammering the shaft to loosen it, but I think I just bent the end of the threads. And messed up the threads of the axle nut while I was at it.

Does anybody know what size die I'd need to fix the threads on the axle? And if I can use a non-oem nut?

And possibly how to loosen the fork, which is still stuck.

30
General Discussion / Changing tires without enough new weights
« on: May 16, 2017, 03:55:50 PM »
I need to go on a 400 mile round trip possibly tomorrow to look at an apartment. My front tire's tread is worn so I really want to replace it. I have a pair of different tires than I've been using (Michelin City Grip instead of Pirelli Diablo). But I forgot to order balancing weights. I should have enough to do the front, but not the back (which seems to require much more weight).

I could change out only the front and have mismatched tires. Or I could leave the weights on the back and balance it like that. Or I could try to find some way to reuse some of the weights.

Thoughts?

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