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Couldn't find much about them online, but I have had a few sets of Metzelers on my motorcycle, and they were good tires, so I ordered a set last September.

Before I had 2 sets of Michelin City Grips.

Each set of Michelin's lasted 20000km, and they were OK, but honestly I wasn't very satisfied with them after a while.
Both front tires got a terrible wobble, and riding on wet was just plain bad.
So far I have around 5500km on these Metzelers and they are very, very good. No front tire wobble and I can actually lean in corners when its wet.
They were the most expensive set of tires for my scooter (Agility City 125), but don't regret paying extra for them.


https://www.metzeler.com/en-ww/catalogue/product/roadtec-scooter

These pictures were taken today

On the way to work after a few rainy and windy days.

Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk

This has been going on for some time now.

Last week I changed the bearing in the swingarm thinking it was the problem, but it wasn't.
When the wheel is on the drive shaft and pushed all the way it wobbles, it's not firmly on the splines of the shaft.

When I put everything back, and torque the nut to the value in the manual the wobble is still there as you can see in the video

I think (hope) the problem is the rear wheel, but the only way to know that is to buy a used wheel.
Any thoughts? 



(the pictures are not from my scoot, forgot to take pictures yesterday)

I've been following this and a few other forums on my phone using the Tapatalk app.
From recently, for some reason, I don't have this forum on it and can't find it with the search option.
Anyone else who has been using Tapatalk has this problem?

I don't remember the last time I rode 2 up on my scoot.
So yesterday I picked up a friend that left his scoot at the shop for meintainence.
We took off and about 1/2 km later the engine started stumbling and shut off.
We coasted a bit and got off the road, and it didn't want to start. Checked the spark plugs cap, but it wasn't loose, nothing was leaking, the starter was spinning the engine. After a few minutes of head scratching it stated again.
We continued but it soon started stumbling again.
It was still working, but very badly.
I told my friend to get off, and everything was ok again!
I left him, went home, got into my car and picked him up.
Today rode alone for 40km, no issues.
Is my scooter jealous and wants me to ride alone on it, or just laisy and doesn't want an extra 90kg on it? [emoji54][emoji3]

Ok, it's seems like a fueling problem, but the only thing that comes to mind is that my friend is kinda heavy and the seat pressed on the fuel cap when sitting. Is that even possible? The fuel tank was almost full at the time.

Any ideas before I dig in?

2008 model, bought it second hand end of 2009 with less than 3000km. I've come to appreciate the simplicity of the machine, so far have done all mechanical work on it (including tire change) by myself.

Got it with a Givi E340N top box and xenon head-bulb.
Removed the head-bulb after about a year because sometimes it didn't work, put in a standard HS1 bulb.

Something feel of inside the muffler at at aound 6000km, sounded awful.
The local muffler shop opened it up, and fixed it. It lasted until about a year and a half ago, and then the awful sound came back.
This time ordered a Tehnigas 4-Scoot exhaust. At that time the odo was at 38400km.
Really like it, looks nice, sounds better then stock, but not too loud, and the scoot breathes easier with it.

Changed 2 r/r, one just today at 50078km.
Lost a few bolts and screws along the way, one of the brackets holding the rear fender broke, so I made a new one.
Also broke a few plastic clips (hate them!!!) that hold various plastic parts together.

Clutch changed at 35150km. Was shaking really bad, and no matter how many times I sanded the clutch pads it would start shaking pretty soon. Got a RMS clutch.

Got the seat cover changed at around the same time. A local guy made it, came out really nice!

Dr. Pulley sliders, clutch springs and contra clutch spring at around 40000km.

New carburetor membrane at 44000km.

Got the headlight polished a month ago, looks much better now.

Rear disc brake is very good, use it more than the front, but must have had some very abrasive pads at some time, because the disc will need to be changed soon.


I did the first valve adjustment when the scoot started to die when coming to a stop 
Don't remember the mileage when it happened, but now do it once a year.


Average fuel consumption is 3.3l/100km (71.2mpg)

All in all it's a OK scoot, come to like it a lot, mostly for it's simplicity and practical value. It's unbelievable how much stuff you can haul on it from the supermarket. I ride it almost all year round, but much less in the wintertime. Been using it as a commuter to work (40km round trip).

Since it has passed the "magical" 50000km line If I wanted to sell it I  would get peanuts for it, so I'm keeping it until it will have me 

Just in case some of you have a rusty fuel tank and want to repair it.


There are similar product like Kreem, Red Kote, but I read a lot of good reviews about POR 15 so decided to use it.

Had a rusty tank on my Kawasaki KLV1000 which is completely the same as a Suzuki V-Strom 1000. It was sold only in Europe for 2 years in 2004 and 2005.

The rust clogged my high pressure filter and the bike started running rough above 5000 rpm, so took the tank off and it looked pretty bad.






POR 15 is a 3 step kit.




1.
 we use Marine Clean that dissolves fuel residue and some rust. It has to be mixed with 1 liter of very warm water. Close all opening on the tank and shake for at lest 20 minutes. Not as easy as it sounds, belive me! After that we pour it out and rinse with water.

2.
Pour in the bottle of Metal ready. It's a phosphorus acid that cleans the rust and prepares the tank for the last step. The tank has to be put in various positions so that covers the whole tank. It shouldn't stay in the tank for more than 2 hours.

Looked much better after step 2.







3.Before putting in the Tank Sealer the tank has to be 100% dry because sealer will start to harden immediately when in contact with water. Dried the tank with a hair drier for more than 1 hour.







Taped up the visible part of the tank.





The Sealer must be stirred, not shaken (James Bond wouldn't approve     ) until the color is uniform, after that we pour it in the tank. It's extremely viscous liquid that forms a thin, but very tough coat. The tank must be rolled in every direction until everything is coated. All excess liquid must be taken out, and a lot of did come out! I used a syringe with a plastic tube to do that.


While it was still coating





It must dry for at least 96 hours.

The result








I did this in 2011.




In 2013 I removed the fuel pump to take a look. The discoloration is from fuel.




In 2015 I took another look. There is some fuel left inside




This is a really good product, and I can recommend it to anybody with a rusty tank. The procedure must be followed exactly! It does take time. It took me about 4.5 hours for start to finish.

Hi everybody!  Often lurk here, but usually post if a have problem (Mea Culpa  )



I have a 08' Agility City 125 with a Tehnigas 4Scoot exhaust. The scoot has a bit over 45000km.

A few weeks ago the scoot couldn't pull over 50-60kmh.

The problem ended up being a ripped vacuum membrane (about 1cm) that I changed.

I also took out the carb and cleaned it in a ultrasound tub, came out really clean and shiny!
Put everything back in,and just in case changed the fuel filter, spark plug and vacuum tubes because they were little cracks on the connecting points.
It idles fine, and everything above 1/4 throttle it runs great.

The problem is the first 1/4 throttle opening, it surges and you can feel it's struggling until you open the throttle more and then no problem.
There was a bit of backfiring at deceleration, most notable when going downhill. I played a bit with the idle jet and it's better now, but not the way it used to be. The idle jet was dirty when I took it out for cleaning.
The spark plug is not oily, so i presume it's not running rich.
No cracks in the intake, I removed the filter and put a rag on the intake tube and the motor died.
Did a valve adjustment just in case.

The only thing that comes to mind now is that I didn't put the TPS back 100% in the position it used to be (didn't know it even had a TPS before removing it!).
I fiddled with it today, and think it's back at the original position, but it still surges somewhat.

The other thing is because of the aftermarket exhaust it's maybe it's getting enough fuel at low RPM, and maybe I need a bigger slow/pilot jet, but the exhaust has been on for more then a year and the problem only started now. 

Open for any ideas, at this point really don't know what the problem is