KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => LIKE 200i => Topic started by: Stig / Major Tom on March 11, 2017, 05:21:30 PM
-
Replaced rear tire on my 2012 LIKE200i.
Tools & parts I had to obtain:
Michelin 130/70-12 Reinforced Power Pure tire & new valve stem
Axle bearing 6203 LU
SEAR's cordless impact wrench
Two prong puller
Problems encountered & solution :
stuck 24mm rear axle nut....$89 Sear's impact wrench
stuck rear swing arm fork ......$5 two-prong puller
Took the wheel, new tire, fork and new fork bearing to a friendly Vespa dealer 1/2 hour distant. Job was ready same day, with old bearing pressed out and new pressed in, tire & valve stem mounted for $35. He had the proper equipment for both jobs.
Years ago I bought a box of clean hardware stripped from a new, wrecked, LIKE200i.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fbsm46R0/wheel1.jpg)
I unclipped the O2 sensor from the wiring harness ,to prevent damage to wire.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJ0NqbCn/Wheel.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DmVmrXWb/wheel9.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/N0DC98yL/wheel6.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JhXXQ3hk/LIKEfender.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GtP9jpv7/wheel7.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RVM0B47m/wheel4.jpg)
Washed all parts as they came off, bagged new hardware, painted exhaust with heat paint.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FzThTknK/wheel8.jpg)
Removed 3 fasteners to free the fender hugger. Left one is buried under air-filter box -
(https://i.postimg.cc/4y2T6km7/wheel2.jpg)
Right one...
(https://i.postimg.cc/c4HNhH7v/wheel16.jpg)
Loosen the 24mm axle nut. Hold rear brake....or use impact wrench.
Remove fastener supporting brake line; remove bottom shock bolt; remove 2 caliper bolts & lift off caliper.
(https://i.postimg.cc/CxxpvKjZ/wheel10.jpg)
Remove 2 small fork bolts and 24mm nut & remove fork from axle. Mine was stuck slightly. Came off easily with a 2 prong puller - be gentle!
(https://i.postimg.cc/3rG8pWBY/wheel11.jpg)
Push shock out of the way, remove dip-stick to clear the wheel, slide off wheel and clean everything you can reach under there! Pay attention to the order of the hardware.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SQ1sLw0f/wheel12.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NMzZP8kL/wheel14.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NFhvj79S/wheel15.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HkRvQW31/wheel19.jpg)
Stig
-
Problems encountered & solution :
stuck 24mm rear axle nut....$89 Sear's impact wrench
Interesting . . 150 ft-lb (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html) versus 200 ft-lb (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19.2-volt-cordless-1-2inch-wrench-kit/p-00931305000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1)
For others curious . . the Harbor Freight corded impacts (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=electric+impact) spec 230 ft-lb . . but those lack the potential benefit of a deficient combusting battery pack to provide a supplemental heating resource.
EXCELLENT post . . your effort is much appreciated!
-
Thanks a lot Tom! Excellent as ever. :)
That rear wheel nut loooks really raped...good that you had a new one ready to install.
Very good idea to respray the exhaust with heatresistant paint. Would also have done that.
Good to know that the rear right shock can stay in place and doesn´t have to be removed totally.
Your scooter always looks so so clean, like new.
And the new sexy Tire makes the scooter even more attractive. Have you planned to put Power Pures to the Front as well?
Or will you ride on two different tires from now on (M-CG/M-PP)?
Your picture of the cylinder outlet does show already the new gasket installed or the old one? Is the gasket somehow seated/pressed in there?
So when you want to change it, you will have to pull the old one out first from the flange? See attached pic.
Cyclepedia offers no pics for that part of the install/uninstall process. Thats why I am asking.
Can you pls post the Dimensions of the OEM gasket? Inner/Outer Diameter, Thickness, etc. in mm?
Old gasket looks different than the new ones.
-
Interesting . . 150 ft-lb (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html) versus 200 ft-lb (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19.2-volt-cordless-1-2inch-wrench-kit/p-00931305000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1)
For others curious . . the Harbor Freight corded impacts (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=electric+impact) spec 230 ft-lb . . but those lack the potential benefit of a deficient combusting battery pack to provide a supplemental heating resource.
EXCELLENT post . . your effort is much appreciated!
Interesting . . 150 ft-lb (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html) versus 200 ft-lb (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19.2-volt-cordless-1-2inch-wrench-kit/p-00931305000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1)
For others curious . . the Harbor Freight corded impacts (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=electric+impact) spec 230 ft-lb . . but those lack the potential benefit of a deficient combusting battery pack to provide a supplemental heating resource.
EXCELLENT post . . your effort is much appreciated!
Thanks Tortoise,
But the issue with the harbor freight wrench was not that it had insufficient power to remove the axle nut.....it is that it quit functioning in any manner. It just hummed a bit and ...if you shook it and held your mouth just right it would move every once in a while.
It removed 2 scooter nuts, well....two more after a lot of screwing about.....and then it was d e a d...except for a bit of stationary humming.
I hope to beejeepers I did not really spend more than $5 for this thing, but am afraid I might have. (purchased it a couple yrs ago)
I cut the cord off for later use....the rest of it went in last week's recycle bin.
4 scooter nuts wore it out. Was about $6 per nut....and about one hour of work for nuts #3 & #4.
Stig
-
Thanks a lot Tom! Excellent as ever. :)
That rear wheel nut loooks really raped...good that you had a new one ready to install.
Very good idea to respray the exhaust with heatresistant paint. Would also have done that.
Good to know that the rear right shock can stay in place and doesn´t have to be removed totally.
Your scooter always looks so so clean, like new.
And the new sexy Tire makes the scooter even more attractive. Have you planned to put Power Pures to the Front as well?
Or will you ride on two different tires from now on (M-CG/M-PP)?
Your picture of the cylinder outlet does show already the new gasket installed or the old one? Is the gasket somehow seated/pressed in there?
So when you want to change it, you will have to pull the old one out first from the flange? See attached pic.
Cyclepedia offers no pics for that part of the install/uninstall process. Thats why I am asking.
Can you pls post the Dimensions of the OEM gasket? Inner/Outer Diameter, Thickness, etc. in mm?
Old gasket looks different than the new ones.
Hello Robo,
My pic shows new gasket in head......finger pulls out old one.
Bought gaskets for common GY6 size scooter, measure @30mm O.S. from a scooter shop. Not expensive.....don't recall shop's name.
They fit well.
Stig
-
Stig,
When you replaced the bearing did you notice the condition of the originals? I'm keeping notes as to when I should replace items not part of the regular maintenance cycle. Thx.
-
Stig,
When you replaced the bearing did you notice the condition of the originals? I'm keeping notes as to when I should replace items not part of the regular maintenance cycle. Thx.
Trout,
The bearing was $7 on ebay.
I thought the orig. was good....until I removed the new bearing from its sealed package and compared the feel of the two. The orig. was pretty smooth...but actually felt a small roughness in comparison. So, glad I had a replacement and a scooter shop willing to pop it in.
(NAPA used to do these little jobs, but stopped 9 mos. ago. They recommended a local machine shop. He said he'd do it for $30. Autozone will lend the tools to do it.)
I do not have proper sized socket to knock it in.
Noted that there is a similar bearing on the inner side of the axle.
Stig
Stig
-
That tire looks sharp Stig. I am anxious to hear how you like it.
-
Trout,
The bearing was $7 on ebay.
I thought the orig. was good....until I removed the new bearing from its sealed package and compared the feel of the two. The orig. was pretty smooth...but actually felt a small roughness in comparison. So, glad I had a replacement and a scooter shop willing to pop it in.
(NAPA used to do these little jobs, but stopped 9 mos. ago. They recommended a local machine shop. He said he'd do it for $30. Autozone will lend the tools to do it.)
I do not have proper sized socket to knock it in.
Noted that there is a similar bearing on the inner side of the axle.
Stig
Stig
Thanks for the reply. :)
-
Yes I am also curious to read how he likes the new sport shoes. :)
@TroutBum and Mr. Paul and Tom
I don´t know yet, but maybe this bearing doesn´t sit so extremly tight because of the attached snapring on the inside of the fork, so that if you heat up the fork with a heat gun or hairdryer, it maybe will come off more or less by itself.
Similar thing with the reinstall. New bearing a few hours into the deep freezer and heating up the fork again short before installing the deep frozen new bearing. With a little bit of grease and luck it might fall in place by itself again. Attach snapring back into place and the job is done without any extra costs. Maybe also the old removed bearing could be used (deep frozen) to knock the new one easily in if a proper socket is not available.
I will report, when I am going to do the tire- and bearingchange on my scooter. Parts, tools and tires already arrived here, just waiting for warmer weather in my personal comfortzone. :)
-
The freeze/heat method works at least in videos I've seen. I did read somewhere that the heat needs to cool down naturally and not forced. Please do keep us posted vespbretta. More tips in our toolbox so to speak makes us DIYers life easier. And hopefully give us more time to ride. 8)
-
The freeze/heat method works at least in videos I've seen. I did read somewhere that the heat needs to cool down naturally and not forced. Please do keep us posted vespbretta. More tips in our toolbox so to speak makes us DIYers life easier. And hopefully give us more time to ride. 8)
Cyclepedia mentions this cold/heat bearing thing in the instructions for the front wheel. And that was a tough little snap ring.
My concern was the thick casting of the fork which would need to be heated - and also possible damage to the admittedly distant pivot bushing....plus the need to buy yet another tool for this tire swap.
When the Vespa tech. agreed that it would be a simple task for his press...I decided to 'Keep Calm & Carry On' ... let him do it.
I dropped off the wheel & fork early and was heading out for full day of Prom Dress shopping with my daughter....
7.5 hrs later we were both ecstatic. She with a pretty dress & me with my new scooter stuff and a happy female!
One must choose carefully your battles.
Stig
-
I have my wife deal with the daughter on such matters. I value my life too much to risk failure. ;)
-
Any chance to get these images showing again. Most are not visible here on my screen anyway?
Kindly Jesper
-
Any chance to get these images showing again. Most are not visible here on my screen anyway?
Kindly Jesper
Whew..! OK Jesper…
I think I was able to rebuild this rear wheel removal. (glad my wife saved my pix!)
LMK if it needs something...
Stig
-
Perfect. Thank you so much. It will be my project for this Fall.
I often have trouble finding the spare parts. How do you find the 7 dollar bearing for examble - Tried searching for "Kymco Like 200i rear bearing" on ebay, but no luck really. Or do you look up the part number somewhere?
Kindly Jesper
-
Oh, i guess, you allready answered that here :)
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=24085.0 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=24085.0)
Thanks!
-
Stig, put these thing in a book! I say again, you write a better service manual single-handed than even Clymer, Haynes or Sam's!
-
[/quote]Perfect. Thank you so much. It will be my project for this Fall.
I often have trouble finding the spare parts. How do you find the 7 dollar bearing for examble - Tried searching for "Kymco Like 200i rear bearing" on ebay, but no luck really. Or do you look up the part number somewhere?
Kindly Jesper
Yeah, I've found that some parts are available from all kinds of sources. Figured a Japanese made bearing from a good company was a better deal than buying through Kymco.
Some things are generic.
Special size nuts, washers, O-rings, bearings, etc. - once you know the size, you can find them from other sources - equal quality & often at a much better price.
Suzuki parts houses sold an O-ring for goofy $, found the same item from a company which makes nothing but O-rings for automotive and industrial use. Bought 5 of them for $7.
As I recall, the fussiest part of the tire change/wheel removal was re-fitting the heavy exhaust. Used twine to tie the far end up while mating it up to the engine studs- "floated" it there on string with slack to move it about as needed.
My photo host decamped with most of my photos of the procedure.
Stig
-
Stig, Thank You very much for your directions! Just followed them and got my new tire installed and the scooter up and running. I didn’t even have any left over parts. LOL. Was nervous before I started but it went very smooth thanks to you. Love this forum!
Jim
-
Stig, Thank You very much for your directions! Just followed them and got my new tire installed and the scooter up and running. I didn’t even have any left over parts. LOL. Was nervous before I started but it went very smooth thanks to you. Love this forum!
Jim
Well, GOOD for you!
Yeah, every time I start taking apart a perfectly good scooter I get nervous.
Years ago I took my LIKE back to my Kymco dealer - handed them 2 City Grips. An hour or so later they were finished, and did a perfect job of it. I still think their $130 charge was a very good price!
I use the heck out of my www.cyclepedia.com (http://www.cyclepedia.com) manual and, so far, so good!
Thanks for your reply!
Major Tom
-
Those were great pics.
I am experiencing rear squeaky wheel syndrome too. So before I take the wheel off, I am of course gonna check the brake pads first.
My question is: the manual says you have to disconnect the brake line to remove the caliper, is this true?
Can't I just move the whole unit intact, like on a car?
-
Those were great pics.
I am experiencing rear squeaky wheel syndrome too. So before I take the wheel off, I am of course gonna check the brake pads first.
My question is: the manual says you have to disconnect the brake line to remove the caliper, is this true?
Can't I just move the whole unit intact, like on a car?
Might try using one of those green scrubbies on the disc first?
Grab the disc with the scrubbie and spin the wheel.
Talking about one of those 3"x5" 1/8th" thick green kitchen scrubbies.
And, no you do not have to remove the brake line - just lift the caliper off after removing the fasteners.
Major Tom
-
Stig would you have by chance the index number of this wheelbearing?
I'm changing my rear tire, brake disc and calipers.
With this l would like to change the bearing too.
Is there any addition oil seal too?
Appreciate, Ruffus
-
Stig, not calipers l meant, brake disc and pads are to
be renewed.
Thx, Ruffus
-
Stig, not calipers l meant, brake disc and pads are to
be renewed.
Thx, Ruffus
Pads and disc need replacing??!
Surprises me - as my pads look 60% after 17,000 miles. Disc is perfect as well.
I think we discussed the bearing size in this topic discussion somewhere.
Bearing in the rear suspension fork is 6203LU, NTN brand. I used a good Japanese bearing, sealed both sides.
Parts diagrams will give a good look at all parts associated with that area of the scooter.
Stig
-
Stig, thank you so much for your response.
Mea culpa, l did not check up on the older part of this topic where Robo ows you already a box of donuts for the same research.
Well, since my Like has 46700 km on the odo, the rear disc is already pretty thin and grooved. So tire change brakes and bearing goes in one.
I already prepared the place.
-
Stig, thank you so much for your response.
Mea culpa, l did not check up on the older part of this topic where Robo ows you already a box of donuts for the same research.
Well, since my Like has 46700 km on the odo, the rear disc is already pretty thin and grooved. So tire change brakes and bearing goes in one.
I already prepared the place.
Wow!
You may have the most senior Like200i on this forum!
With that in mind - please share some thougjts with us.
How have the parts held up for you...any trouble with tjese ?: CVT, coil, injector, fuel pump, ECU !!, compression, fork and wheel bearings,etc.?
Any advice on areas we need to pay attention to in order to insure more years of reliability from our beloved Like's?
Thank you in advance....
Stig
-
Hi: I have a 2012 Like 200i, 25K miles. Recently had rear tire replaced and discovered two problems: 1) one of the exhaust studs had broken off. Therefore the muffler is now attached by only one stud at the engine. Is the stud threaded and can be removed and replaced, or is it pressed in and must be drilled? 2) The metal clip that bolts to the right front side of the fender hugger (mud guard) had broken. Thus the hugger was unstable, rubbed on the tire, and the hugger was destroyed. I found a new hugger online, but have not been able to find a part number for the clip. Local dealers are clueless. Any ideas? In the mean time I'm riding without the hugger. Thanks!
-
I think the clip is part number 11207 on the chart, but the price is outrageous...
-
Hi: I have a 2012 Like 200i, 25K miles. Recently had rear tire replaced and discovered two problems: 1) one of the exhaust studs had broken off. Therefore the muffler is now attached by only one stud at the engine. Is the stud threaded and can be removed and replaced, or is it pressed in and must be drilled? 2) The metal clip that bolts to the right front side of the fender hugger (mud guard) had broken. Thus the hugger was unstable, rubbed on the tire, and the hugger was destroyed. I found a new hugger online, but have not been able to find a part number for the clip. Local dealers are clueless. Any ideas? In the mean time I'm riding without the hugger. Thanks!
Hi Craig, welcome to the forum.
As for the exhaust studs - Yes, the two studs are threaded in.
Part # 90033BOLT STUD 8*32
90033-GFY6-C00
If not readily found - probably close , or the same, as used on other scoots (parts on ebay)
seen here....
https://solanocycle.dealerspikeparts.com/oemparts/a/kym/5b50e9a587a866110c2e0972/cylinder-head
Good luck.
Stig
-
@Craig,
maybe that helps..
-
Thanks Ruffus, Stig, and big Blue. The link to Solano Cycles really helped. Yep, the right side clip is 11207, and the left side stay is 11208. Looks like the intake studs are 90033 the exhaust side studs are 92900 if I interpret the drawings correctly. Now just have to find them! Thanks all.
-
Thanks Ruffus, Stig, and big Blue. The link to Solano Cycles really helped. Yep, the right side clip is 11207, and the left side stay is 11208. Looks like the intake studs are 90033 the exhaust side studs are 92900 if I interpret the drawings correctly. Now just have to find them! Thanks all.
Yep, you're right, I correctly identified the wrong studs.😊
The exhaust studs are the 2 below.
I swear that I've seen them sold on ebay for other Chinese scooters - often with those long cap nuts included., for a couple of bucks.
Stig
-
@Craig,
mentioned studs are
# 90033 exhaust side 6×60mm
# 92900 intake side 8×32 mm
drawing lies a little bit.
This studs are standard items and could be easily obtained from any car or motorcycle shop. Just go in some mechanic shop and ask one of the guys to check his/her toolbox. Most good mechanics have some spare stashed somewhere. Or can pretty fast made from a good quality 6 mm bolt (grade 10.8 or higher).
-
OK, I know this is an old thread, but it seems the best place to ask:
I'm stuck at the step where the rear fork is supposed to be removed. It appears the inner race is seized to the shaft. I've tried WD40/PB Blaster and heat along with a three-jaw puller. I'm afraid to put more force on the puller because I don't want to break the casting. I see in the notes that Stig needed a 2-jaw puller and I am wondering if that was for this purpose?
Recommendations welcome.
BTW, I did need to use PB Blaster, heat, and a 3/8 air impact wrench to free the axle bolt.
-Sean
-
OK, I know this is an old thread, but it seems the best place to ask:
I'm stuck at the step where the rear fork is supposed to be removed. It appears the inner race is seized to the shaft. I've tried WD40/PB Blaster and heat along with a three-jaw puller. I'm afraid to put more force on the puller because I don't want to break the casting. I see in the notes that Stig needed a 2-jaw puller and I am wondering if that was for this purpose?
Recommendations welcome.
BTW, I did need to use PB Blaster, heat, and a 3/8 air impact wrench to free the axle bolt.
-Sean
Hello Sean,
You are correct to work with care - but I think that fork casting is pretty stout!..(I've seen good used ones on ebay for about $40)
Of course your front bolts are removed....and your scoot is securely stable - then I'd try a little wiggle to free the fork, as well as maybe a hammer tap on a wood block of the axle end, and a tap with the wood fore and aft on the fork.
And more work with your puller.
I needed only a gentle pull with the tool to free the fork. I ran down to the hardware store and bought a cheap one. My fork popped right off.
Then again, my axle nut only needed a shot or two with an 1/2" impact gun.
This area of your scooter seems unusually stubborn!
I've no other trick for this to release from the axle. Some lubricant, and try every 24 hrs with your puller. Tap tap with the wood.
Hopefully - others will have a better idea for you. It can be discouraging for simple things like this to present such a problem. I would suspect your dealer would be using a puller as well...
Good luck and do let us know how this turns out for you. Your solution will help others in the future.
Stig
-
... but I think that fork casting is pretty stout! ...
This area of your scooter seems unusually stubborn!
...
I've no other trick for this to release from the axle. Some lubricant, and try every 24 hrs with your puller. Tap tap with the wood.
Thanks for your insight. I went ahead and put a lot more pressure on the puller -- to the point where I am galling the threads of the puller. No luck. Pictured is the current state of affairs. Yes, I know my shocks are rusty. The scooter lives on a boat. That's probably the reason the bearing is seized to the shaft.
-Sean
(https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPFV_AHSlImdVAiyShCqm5S6BFc2LVvSIgxywy_FvRVXnEZSnlBGxEpno6iJED9gA/photo/AF1QipPoKg67NhDZ4xN66ldo6kgH_1vYy2AqzDPMTppJ?key=anM2dGJDQWpPdG8wTlp6MTdOUVBwM3EyOG5vcWR3)
Hmm. I tried to include a photo but the img tag does not seem to be working.
-
(Sean - some of us use postimages.org to host and load photos here.)
Darn - "on a boat" ? Saltwater, or ?
Anyway - you've probably found what I'm finding - this is a common enough problem with scooters and motorcycles.
One comment from a mechanic dealing with a flood scooter....after 3 or 4 hours he gave up.
Common enough that Scooterwest actually makes and sells a special puller tool for stuck Vespa swingarms. Fits only Vespa bolt pattern.
Heat is obviously cooking the bearing - which - judging by your troubles is already shot. So would be replaced in any event.
Man - I see only two options....
(one) continuing to apply a penetrating lube with the periodic wiggle action to the arm, vibration?, and some puller action within reason.
(two) take it to the dealer to have a new rear tire fitted.
Did read of a fellow drilling out the bearing, dropped the balls out and then managed to pull the fork.
I'd keep going with the penetrant,. and some way to vibrate the fork to move along the oil.
Hopefully - others will chime in here with something to get you moving with your tire replacement!
Good luck!
New swing arms are @$115 - so not catastrophic.
But somebody is going to have to get that fork off!
Stig
-
(Sean - some of us use postimages.org to host and load photos here.)
Darn - "on a boat" ? Saltwater, or ?
...
Heat is obviously cooking the bearing - which - judging by your troubles is already shot. So would be replaced in any event.
Yes, the boat lives mostly in salt water. Which is why this is a used Kymco and not, say, a Vespa on the deck. We actually have two -- the other is a Buddy 125. They're stowed on the boat deck, which is around 10' or so above the water, so they don't see any salt spray, but get plenty of salt air. I'm on my third Kymco in a decade; the first two (People 150 and another Like 200i) were both stolen, so they don't seem to last long enough to rust away.
I've got a new bearing on the way, NSK 6203DDU (seals on both sides, rather than just one). So I'm going to try even more heat, and I guess if that does not work I can pull the cage out of the race, worry the balls out, and get the fork off that way. Then I can cut the inner race off the shaft.
Thanks for your help. Further suggestions from anyone are welcome.
-Sean
-
Yes, I've seen some pretty rough looking scooters when we vacation along St Pete Beach and go into St Petersburg!
Stopped and inspected a LIKE200i like mine parked under a Publix near Clearwater beach once. The chrome was pretty rough! Seat torn, muffler scraped, it'd been down a time or two, poor thing. But it was still running fine... on a pair of dry-rotted Kendas!
I daydream about owning nothing but a scooter in Florida - all a man needs is a rain poncho and a way to hold my DunkinDonuts coffee!
Good luck - would love to see a photo of where your scooters live!
Stig
-
...
Good luck - would love to see a photo of where your scooters live!
I probably should get a better shot from on deck, but it's raining ATM so you'll have to just zoom in on this one instead. In this shot the Buddy is in front of and partly obscuring the Like.
-
I probably should get a better shot from on deck, but it's raining ATM so you'll have to just zoom in on this one instead. In this shot the Buddy is in front of and partly obscuring the Like.
That ain't Topeka....where we at here Sean?
Florida, Bahamas , Da Nang?
Nice boat, BTW!
Thanks for the photo.
STIG
-
That ain't Topeka....where we at here Sean?
Florida, Bahamas , Da Nang?
Nice boat, BTW!
Anchored off the beach at Egg Island, near Spanish Wells in the Bahamas. Taken by another cruiser in the anchorage last month. The flat tire is from a fish hook I picked up riding around Great Harbour Cay. And, thank you. It is our only home.
-
Anchored off the beach at Egg Island, near Spanish Wells in the Bahamas. Taken by another cruiser in the anchorage last month. The flat tire is from a fish hook I picked up riding around Great Harbour Cay. And, thank you. It is our only home.
Nice boat!
If you need any deck hands - I just finished the Pirates of the Caribbean series - and Neil - he must be a sailor, living on an island as he does - has seen Master and Commander twice!
We'll just need to discuss paid leave and health insurance....
So, you are out of Bear, Delaware?
My daughter wanted to see the Atlantic - and Delaware was a straight shot over - so we went to Lewes, DE last summer. Took the pup. (we won't be going back to Florida until the dog expires....she doesn't now that - I hate putting her in the kennel - the dog, not the daughter)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vTx4pVYc/20230619-093909.jpg)
Being along the coast - we ate Italian. (or wherever a dog could join us)
(https://i.postimg.cc/x1MdGQ8V/20230617-152413.jpg)
a question: How do you get the 260lb scooter off of the boat?
Stig
-
Sean, I've started a service ticket with the folks who wrote the KymcoUSA service manual - explaining your situation, incl what you've tried.
If they offer any tips I'll let you know.
Stig
-
Nice boat!
If you need any deck hands - I just finished the Pirates of the Caribbean series - and Neil - he must be a sailor, living on an island as he does - has seen Master and Commander twice!
We'll just need to discuss paid leave and health insurance....
a question: How do you get the 260lb scooter off of the boat?
Stig
You do know I’m over 100 miles from the nearest sea Stig?! Open to offers mind 😉
I should imagine the answer to that question would be “very carefully” down the gang plank?
-
From Kymco tech support...
"Yeah, no more special tricks beyond what you have tried other than combining the methods along with rubber mallet tapping here and there. What will get it done is persistence, just keep trying and it will come loose. If possible you can lean the machine over to help the lubricant get in there, pay attention to the position of the rear fork and work it from multiple angles as it can get bound up."
Persistence.....sometimes the hardest tool to find...
Good luck,
Stig
-
Nice boat!
If you need any deck hands - I just finished the Pirates of the Caribbean series - and Neil - he must be a sailor, living on an island as he does - has seen Master and Commander twice!
We'll just need to discuss paid leave and health insurance....
So, you are out of Bear, Delaware?
Lol, we get lots of crew offers. It sounds great until you hear the hours and the actual work.
Bear was just a "port of convenience" when we named the boat (a hailing port is a legal requirement for naming a documented vessel). At that point in time we'd already been living several years in an RV and had no fixed home to speak of, and the last place we lived in a fixed dwelling for any length of time was the SF Bay Area. We could have chosen San Jose, CA as our hailing port, but since we bought the boat on the east coast, we figured that would lead to too many "so, did you bring it through the canal?" type questions. Neither of us was partial to any of the places either one of us had lived on the east coast, and so we ended up just picking one. We titled the dinghy out of Delaware for fiscal reasons, and so we just picked Delaware for the big boat, too. "Bear" was the shortest seaport name in the state.
My daughter wanted to see the Atlantic - and Delaware was a straight shot over - so we went to Lewes, DE last summer. Took the pup. (we won't be going back to Florida until the dog expires....she doesn't now that - I hate putting her in the kennel - the dog, not the daughter)
a question: How do you get the 260lb scooter off of the boat?
There is a davit crane on the boat deck, port side aft, that exists to lower and raise the dinghy. It's an 800-lb crane and we had, at one time, a ~600lb dinghy (we switched from a fiberglass model to an aluminum one, dropping that to ~400). So the scoots are nbd for the crane. We use Canyon Dancer bar restraints to strap them in their deck chocks, and the Canyon Dancer becomes part of the lifting tackle. I replaced the bolts for the rear grab bar with eye bolts for the other end of the harness. Obviously, we have to be at a dock. port-side-to, to offload.
-Sean
-
From Kymco tech support...
"Yeah, no more special tricks beyond what you have tried other than combining the methods along with rubber mallet tapping here and there. What will get it done is persistence, just keep trying and it will come loose. If possible you can lean the machine over to help the lubricant get in there, pay attention to the position of the rear fork and work it from multiple angles as it can get bound up."
Persistence.....sometimes the hardest tool to find...
Thank you so much for following up with this.
The whole shebang is still sitting up there on the boat deck untouched, albeit with the new tire supporting the muffler to keep it off the deck paint. After last I posted here, a whole bunch of other things supervened -- we've moved the boat three times since then, and been on a long shopping and mail-retrieval trip aided by serendipitous friends with a car. Normally, the Like would have done the mail-retrieval and shopping duty. Oh, and I had to transit to an Amazon locker to pick up the new bearings, NSK models. By the time I am done with the heat and the, umm, persistence, the one that's in there now will be toast.
-Sean