First Kymco - 2009 People 150 - Recommended maintenance

[Pagan_Ranger]

Hi Everyone,

I just joined this forum!

I just purchased a 2009 Kymco People 150 with 832 miles for $200.  Per the previous (and original owner) it was diagnosed by a mobile mechanic as needing a new carburetor.  It has basically sat since 2015.

I own a couple of motorcycles and not a newb to wrenching the basics and sometimes more extensive if I have the time and patience. 

I am getting a new battery; previous one has a bulge and got hot when charging (AGM).  I used the battery off my one of my other bikes to try to start, it will try to turn over (although about a 1 second delay between pushing start button and trying to turn over).  Has spark.
I was able to get started using starting fluid, so I am sure the Carb is gummed up.  (started, will rev, then just bogs out)

Here is the list of items that I am planning on replacing in short order:

* Battery (ordered)
* Carburetor (ordered; rollingwrench; basic one jetted for sea level, as I am in San Diego)
* Spark Plug (may as well; bought)
* Air Filter (ordered)
* Drain the old gas
* Oil Change
* Transmission oil change
* tires - look good, but old rubber

Would anyone have any recommended other recommended maintenance items I should either replace/repair right away or anything to be on the lookout for due to age/sitting? 

Pretty much looking to keep this stock, unless there is a direct replacement part that helps performance/reliability. 

Thanks you in advance for sharing any knowledge/experience!

[Ruffus]

@PR, welcome here in this KYMCO hive.
All you said already, plus I would do a CVT check,
means cover off, belt off, clutch off and rollers.
 -Even there is not that much to be expected at this milage, it's nice to be sure
 - Brake fluid change and brake pads inspected.
 - It cannot hurt to unplug/ replug all connectors and lathering with dielectric grease not to have any electric surprises due to corrosion.
 - Vacuum lines and ground points are sometimes an issue.
 - sidearm bearing (rear wheel off)
 - Muffler nuts (cylinderhead/pipe) coppergrease
 - Brake calipers, take those two/ four bolts which hold brakepads out, and put coppergrease/ ceramic paste on it, to preserve (6mm L-key), lock tight tenderly
 - Fuel filter change
 - Odometer drive new grease and cable checking.
 -Valve clearance .

[Pagan_Ranger]

@PR, welcome here in this KYMCO hive.
All you said already, plus I would do a CVT check,
means cover off, belt off, clutch off and rollers.
 -Even there is not that much to be expected at this milage, it's nice to be sure
 - Brake fluid change and brake pads inspected.
 - It cannot hurt to unplug/ replug all connectors and lathering with dielectric grease not to have any electric surprises due to corrosion.
 - Vacuum lines and ground points are sometimes an issue.
 - Odometer drive new grease and cable checking.

Thank you for the reply! 
* Pads good, checked that;  changing brake fluid is a good idea, plus I need to do that on another bike anyway.
* Vaccum lines looked good, but have to inspect again once I install the new Carb and get it running
* I may dive into the CVT, but if I do, knowing myself, I'll start messing around with belts, rollers upgrades, ha ha!  Will have to fight the urge!
* Finally I can use my stock of dielectric grease that I have laying around.

Hope to have this up and running in the next couple of weeks, depending on my bandwidth.  Wife about kicked me in the face when I brought it home.  She said I do not need another project!

[Ruffus]

@PR, good to hear you're focused😊.
But maybe you explain to your wife, it's better to hang out in your workshop than in a bar.
Keep us posted.

- This one second delay could be
 = a switch or
 = a corroded connection on
 = your starter relais or
 = a rotten plus cable to your starter or
 = a partially broken ground cable battery/ motor block (pls see link)

https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=31637.0

P.S. one more thing came in my mind reading of your bulged battery:
-check very thoroughly this connectors between generator and regulator/ rectifier. 'Coz I had recently such a case (pls see link)
I'm already up on a better solution for connectors. Will report upon.

https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=31878.0

[Pagan_Ranger]

@PR, good to hear you're focused😊.
But maybe you explain to your wife, it's better to hang out in your workshop than in a bar.
Keep us posted.

Thank you again!  I see you added valves to the list; Actually was adding that to my list today!   

That is an interesting issue.  Once I get the scoot more disassembled, I'll check everything in much more detail.  I have been resisting the urge to disassemble when I don't have all the parts yet.  Then I just end up with parts laying around until I do get the parts and by then I'm wondering how to put it back together (at least until I do it a few times).  Classic ADD.  I just want to tool around the block on the bastard, so it's killing me to wait.  Ha ha!

But maybe you explain to your wife, it's better to hang out in your workshop than in a bar.

That won't work.   However, we have an understanding that the garage is my domain; she gets the inside of the house.

[Iahawk]

welcome to the forum, Ranger! Sounds like you have an almost brand new, old scoot. Happy scootering.

[JJJoseph]

we have an understanding that the garage is my domain; she gets the inside of the house.

Haha! I used to think that was a good idea until I got divorced.  I got the garage, and she got the house!

BTW, if your scoot was stored indoors, you won't need to do much to get it going. The machines are durable, and very little goes off with time just sitting.  I'd suggest a new battery and clean the carb with toluene.  Everything else should be OK, even the oil.

[Ruffus]

@JJJ, respectfully I disagree.
-oil ages and builts up acids
-brake fluid is absorbing moisture through vent holes
-brake calipers get stuck/ piston-seals dry out
-connectors/ switches corrode even in a sand desert
-CVT components age, sitting that long
-oil seals harden out
-all fuel related parts degrade
-valves set, etc.
IMHO starting an unknown/ long time sat motor without flushing/ new liquids is a precurser for a capital motor wreck.Only turning by hand from fanside I would allow to do, to see if it stucks or not.

[Pagan_Ranger]

Haha! I used to think that was a good idea until I got divorced.  I got the garage, and she got the house!

BTW, if your scoot was stored indoors, you won't need to do much to get it going. The machines are durable, and very little goes off with time just sitting.  I'd suggest a new battery and clean the carb with toluene.  Everything else should be OK, even the oil.

Ha ha!  I will have to keep that in mind!

It was always stored indoors.  There are quite a few scratches from the owner having moved a few times and careless movers/storage.

I went through all the hoses and lines.  They all look in perfect shape, but I will check again once have it running.

Not having an ideathe last the oil was changed, it is a quick and cheap precaution.   

[Pagan_Ranger]

@JJJ, respectfully I disagree.
-oil ages and builts up acids
-brake fluid is absorbing moisture through vent holes
-brake calipers get stuck/ piston-seals dry out
-connectors/ switches corrode even in a sand desert
-CVT components age, sitting that long
-oil seals harden out
-all fuel related parts degrade
-valves set, etc.
IMHO starting an unknown/ long time sat motor without flushing/ new liquids is a precurser for a capital motor wreck.Only turning by hand from fanside I would allow to do, to see if it stucks or not.

Definitely things will wear out, but the rate at a component wears has so many variables.  I paid $200 for the scoot, so I can afford to take some risks with my investment.  Ha ha!  Basically, in order of importance:

1) Safety
2) Safety
3) Reliability
4) Longevity
5) Looks

I don't need this to last 30k miles.  I'll probably get bored and move on to something else, but during the time I do have it, I want it to be safe, I want it to start and run and I when I do pass it to someone else, I want it to be better than I found it.

Should get the new carb today!  But working so probably won't dive in until later in the week.

[Ruffus]

@PR, fully agree with you about inexpensive deal, etc.
But nasty thing is, if you out somewhere middle of nowhere and the scoot stalls for a nimble piece of somewhat and you have to push for a while, just because a  $40,- part, which you didn't change......😊

[Pagan_Ranger]

Well, I decided to dive in to this over the weekend.

* Changed Oil
* Changed Gear Oil
* Replaced Spark Plug
* Replaced Battery
* Replaced Carburetor
* Replaced Air Filter
* Drained the Old Gas
* Added some new gas

I had more to do, but figured I see if this would start.

It started, and idled for about 30 seconds. 

Then there was a loud noise and it stopped.  Then gas just flowed out of the air filter box.

Appears the engine seized (kickstart doesn't move).

UGGG!!!!!  This project just got more than I originally wanted.........

Have to shelve this for a couple of weeks.....   insert whatever explicative you want

Gotta Research.....

[Stig / Major Tom]

We did replace the oil after it was drained?......

Stig

[Pagan_Ranger]

We did replace the oil after it was drained?......

Stig

Not sure if we did, but I certainly did.   Ha ha!

[scooterfan]

Did you use starting fluid to start the engine again ? I don’t like using that stuff. When it explodes in a combustion chamber it can cause damage like braking piston rings or even cracks a cylinder head.
Maybe yoy can just remove the cooling fin cover and try to to turn the cooling fin pulley by hand - if you can’nt turn the pully you have definite problems.
Another possibility is that the valve clearances have not been set correctly. A gas leak at the exhaust valve can cause an engine backfire if some unburned gas ended up in the exhaust.
I think the gas  flow from the air filter box is probably an indication of incorrect valve clearance settings as well  - the inlet valve probably opens at the wrong time and gas could be forced backwards into the intake system.