Rear wheel bearing play?

[hypophthalmus]

I noticed there was some play in the rear fork/bracket bearing. So I replaced it, but I think I accidentally hit the seal a little bit since I can see the imprint of some of the rollers underneath. There's a tiny gap at the seal too. Anyways that bearing has play in it too, I assumed because I damaged it.

So I just got a third bearing, and decided to check it on the shaft before doing anything... and sure enough there's a tiny bit of play in this one too. Definitely in the bearing, not the shaft. So.... I guess this type of bearing just has play in it by design and I've been worrying about nothing?

Should I bother paying someone to press in the new bearing?

Edit: Whoops, I meant to post this to the People 250 forum.

[MJR]

I'm not really sure which bearing you are referring to but what type of bearing is it? Tapered roller, parallel roller, ball bearing?

[Redk]

Swing arm bearings / motor assembly bushings are pretty important for the racer's edge when running at hi-speed through the chicanes.
Not so much for customary riding.

If you notice movement when riding, it's probably a good idea to refurbish...
redk

[hypophthalmus]

It's the bearing on the not-engine side of the rear wheel shaft. It appears to be a deep groove ball bearing.

There wasn't any play in the wheel when it was mounted.

[Redk]

It's the bearing on the not-engine side of the rear wheel shaft. It appears to be a deep groove ball bearing.

There wasn't any play in the wheel when it was mounted.

Hypo, you should always run the best you can. It's the best policy.
I'm just a dyed-in-the-wool cheapskate.

If it has been install and seems to be within specs for runout, it should be good.
Possibility is, it may wear out quickly.

When bearings exceed specs, everything on the shaft they support wears faster, or,
The bearing may decide to wobble out whatever it is mounted within.

This could mean replacement of Much more expensive parts !  and that same bearing, once again.

It's your call.  None of us can ever really see what's actually going on so we will tell you our tall tales and discuss philosophy.

...I RX'd a timken bearing today, with other parts, and the cage has been dented in transit because the components in the parcel were not protected from each other.  Just now I sent them an email telling them I Would give them a 5 star rating, but they owed me a rebate because I'll need to ride to the next town to purchase another bearing, now at a higher price. (It's for my rototiller, and has caused seasonal problems because it was out of service.)
I won't use the funky bearing because I don't want to take the messy ole TroyBilt apart ever again !

Best
redk

[blue]

If you know someone with a press to put it in is best. Or if you are realy good with a rubber hammer and dead on is about the only way. I have used a clamp befor but you need to be very carefull and go slow. Maybe best to take in and have it done its just one of those things that some of us cant do.

[hypophthalmus]

Here's what the ebay store I bought it from had to say:

"It is normal. The inner races are curved. We spin test them before we ship to make sure that they are ok."

Sounds reassuring. It seems like some other bearings that I have on hand might be doing the same thing, although it's harder to tell because they're smaller and there's no shaft to put them on.

I'm going to replace the one with the banged seal, and pay the $10 to get it properly replaced. Better than worrying about it.

[Redk]

Pls allow me to beat the dead horse...   :-)

Ten bucks for peace of mind is Great value !

There is NO ebay vendor of this sort that specs out bearings in this price range.
( Sure, some guy selling a couple used parts he found in a box will spin them on his fingers as he takes a pic of them for the posting.)

I have pressed bearings in, and out of sensitive transmission cases.
This can be a perilous undertaking and no sensible mechanic will guarantee the housing will not get cracked in the process.

I would advise you freeze the bearing for a few hours by placing in a plastic bag in your freezer.
Warm the housing it will go into by placing a bare 100w lightbulb close to it, or use a heat gun if available.
Install the bearing briskly using a suitable mandrel, which will usually end up being a large socket on a short extension and hammer.

If the bearing is loose in it's mounting, shimstock may be used, or a loctite bearing mount product, with mixed expectations.
If this method is employed on the shaft passing through the bearing expectations of success would be less.
I have peened these surfaces in the past, only when circumstances warranted. This is a destructive and temporary repair method.
redk