3 Tests for LIKE200i fuel delivery problems

[Stig / Major Tom]

To check the fuel injector with multimeter --- EASY > unplug connector down at the injector. Touch two prongs with meter to read ohms. should read 11.7 +/- .06


To check power to the fuel pump: unplug white connector on black cable leading from the tank top. Touch the multi meter leads to the harness side of the fuel pump connector, with the positive lead touching the red/black wire terminal and the negative lead touching the green wire terminal.
Turn the ignition switch on. The battery voltage should show for a few seconds. Yes/No??

If the battery voltage is not present check the following:
● Fuse B (10 A)
● Fuel cut-off relay
● ECU

If voltage IS present....
Check the fuel pump with multimeter:
Touch the multi meter leads to the fuel pump side of the fuel pump connector, with the positive lead touching the red/black wire terminal and the negative lead touching the green wire terminal.
Fuel pump resistance (at 20°C/68°F)
red/black and green wires
1.9 ± 0.3 Ω

So, 3 fairly easy tests to get us started on inspecting the fuel delivery.

Stig

[kjems]

Thanks for this.

I get 3,1 ohm when I check resistanse in the plug to the fuel pump. (it's unplugged).

So that could indicate a fuel pump failure? (including problems with not taking gas - stumbling/or small fall outs - when starting and at low speeds?)

Jesper

[kjems]

Thanks for this.

I get 3,1 ohm when I check resistanse in the plug to the fuel pump. (it's unplugged).

So that could indicate a fuel pump failure? (including problems with not taking gas - stumbling/or small fall outs - when starting and at low speeds?)

Jesper

Ended up changing the fuel pump, and all problems are now gone!  (with this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/394052084353)

[Neil955i]

Good news!!

[GreenMachine]

Hello, hoping I can revive this thread here on fuel delivery issues.

Just bought a 2012 Like 200i, which had sat for about 10yrs in an airconditioned garage.
She's in real nice shape, 1 (female) owner, +- 2k miles.

Right off the batt we realized that the fuel pump was bad, and the fuel tube above the pump was cracked and collapsed (maybe what killed the pump). I Cleared out old gas and replaced with new. Replaced the pump, now the pump runs for the couple seconds when the ignition is engaged, as it should. Also confirmed fuel pressure to the injector (pre-crank). Thought I was rtg after all that, but no.

Now experiencing a Crank but No Start. Not even a fart. Unless, I use starter fluid and in that event she starts and idles for about 5sec then stumbles off. For a crank or two after that, she'll start and idle for the same 5sec then stumble off. Its very consistent.

Getting a good spark. Confirmed the fuel injector is pulsing its spray of fuel when cranking, so that seems to be good.

I'm pretty much convinced its a fuel problem, that the fuel pump is initiated with the key is first turned on, but does not re-engage when the bike is running (only runs for that 5sec on starter fluid). But why am I getting the fuel spurt with the injector out and cranking. What the heck I'm confused now.

Anyone got any 2 cents on what may be the issue?

If it were a bad fuel pump relay, it (the pump) would not engage when the ignition is engaged on.

What else up stream from the fuel pump would inhibit it from engaging?

I witnessed a celp blink or 2 or 3, but its sporadic, sometimes its just solid then goes out, sometimes it blinks. Just ordered a obdII 3prong adapter on amazon, not sure if that's gona work but.. it was cheap.

Any feedback would be appreciated guys, thx in advance.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Hello, hoping I can revive this thread here on fuel delivery issues.

Just bought a 2012 Like 200i, which had sat for about 10yrs in an airconditioned garage.
She's in real nice shape, 1 (female) owner, +- 2k miles.

Right off the batt we realized that the fuel pump was bad, and the fuel tube above the pump was cracked and collapsed (maybe what killed the pump). I Cleared out old gas and replaced with new. Replaced the pump, now the pump runs for the couple seconds when the ignition is engaged, as it should. Also confirmed fuel pressure to the injector (pre-crank). Thought I was rtg after all that, but no.

Now experiencing a Crank but No Start. Not even a fart. Unless, I use starter fluid and in that event she starts and idles for about 5sec then stumbles off. For a crank or two after that, she'll start and idle for the same 5sec then stumble off. Its very consistent.

Getting a good spark. Confirmed the fuel injector is pulsing its spray of fuel when cranking, so that seems to be good.

I'm pretty much convinced its a fuel problem, that the fuel pump is initiated with the key is first turned on, but does not re-engage when the bike is running (only runs for that 5sec on starter fluid). But why am I getting the fuel spurt with the injector out and cranking. What the heck I'm confused now.

Anyone got any 2 cents on what may be the issue?

If it were a bad fuel pump relay, it (the pump) would not engage when the ignition is engaged on.

What else up stream from the fuel pump would inhibit it from engaging?

I witnessed a celp blink or 2 or 3, but its sporadic, sometimes its just solid then goes out, sometimes it blinks. Just ordered a obdII 3prong adapter on amazon, not sure if that's gona work but.. it was cheap.

Any feedback would be appreciated guys, thx in advance.

Hello and welcome to the forum.
Lordy - another "ain't run since Eisenhower" scooter!

OK, no worries - we've got a good major league batting average on these LIKE's (.303)

I'm assuming that you tried to start it before discovering that the in-tank fuel line was rotted?
What made you decide the pump was dead? The rotted line wouldn't have killed it.
I'm assuming that the pump was working and pumped rotted line crud along to the injector. What do you think?
There are injector squirts which will not start this injected scooter. The pattern must be fine and fanned for the ignition to occur.
In short, evidence of a squirting injector is not proof of a clean injector - the pattern of spray is critical. A simple matter for a clean injector - for many miles and many years!

Let's assume the injector is fine.
The airfilter is fairly clean - no mice?
A/C'd and sitting with 2K miles - the valves should be fine, and so should the compression.
The ECU should be OK in this friendly environment, as should most every other electrical component......save for fuses and/or corroded switches and brake cables to frame ground?
Fuses checked?
The tail=light lights when you pull a brake lever with key on, yes?
KILL switch in the proper ON position.
There is no side-stand lock-out to worry about.

That's enough for now....Let us know the above.

batter up!

Stig

[GreenMachine]

Hello and welcome to the forum.
Lordy - another "ain't run since Eisenhower" scooter!

OK, no worries - we've got a good major league batting average on these LIKE's (.303)

I'm assuming that you tried to start it before discovering that the in-tank fuel line was rotted?
What made you decide the pump was dead? The rotted line wouldn't have killed it.
I'm assuming that the pump was working and pumped rotted line crud along to the injector. What do you think?
There are injector squirts which will not start this injected scooter. The pattern must be fine and fanned for the ignition to occur.
In short, evidence of a squirting injector is not proof of a clean injector - the pattern of spray is critical. A simple matter for a clean injector - for many miles and many years!

Let's assume the injector is fine.
The airfilter is fairly clean - no mice?
A/C'd and sitting with 2K miles - the valves should be fine, and so should the compression.
The ECU should be OK in this friendly environment, as should most every other electrical component......save for fuses and/or corroded switches and brake cables to frame ground?
Fuses checked?
The tail=light lights when you pull a brake lever with key on, yes?
KILL switch in the proper ON position.
There is no side-stand lock-out to worry about.

That's enough for now....Let us know the above.

batter up!

Stig

Decided the fuel pump was gone when it did not engage with key turned on. Yet, there was battery voltage to the leads of pump when key turned on. (New) pump now engages properly, also checked voltage when cranking and its present.

I'd say its an electrical issue but: 1. She starts up on starter fluid, runs (good) and can goose it, for +- 5sec. Then 2-3x again after the initial start, she idles for +- 5sec. Then runs dry on fuel, sputters off. 2. I've got a good spark when cranking (hard to check when running for that stunt on starter fluid) but obviously spark is there because it is running and the fact that it sputters off tells me it's not spark, kill switch, inertia switch.

Sprayed the injector off with carb cleaner yesterday, no visual signs of being mucked up nor plugged,  but good point about the proper mist. Could it maybe be the timing of the spray in correlation to the spark? But really how could that go incorrect from just sitting. And the injector is spraying fuel you'd think it would run (at least badly) with some fuel being squirted in. Or at least fart a couple times w/o the starter fluid.

Air filter clean (took it all apart). Looks more or less clean as new.

Again with the fuses and the ground, I'm getting a good spart @ crank, and for the +-5sec with starter fluid.

Spark & fuel & air, spark & fuel & air, what the heck! What else am I not getting for this girl not to run or at least start on its own w/o s fluid?