KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Agility 50 => Topic started by: flextrainer on October 27, 2009, 12:45:18 AM
-
I know this is probably a stupid question, but I just don't know (this is my first Kymco). I had a scooter that blew up that I had to hope to use as a parts scooter for my new Kymco. From what I've read the CDI is different than my other scoot though the plugs look the same. My question is can I use the high performance coil even though I probably can't use the high performance CDI? Or can I use the CDI too? Both are brand new,because I found out that the scoot was blew up after I ordered them.
-
What is the "other scooter", and which Kymco? Also to make it easier are they both 2 stroke, or 4stk? These scoots. are pretty generic by nature of cost effective design.
-
Sorry, the blew up was a baja and the new one is an agility 50. Both are 4 stroke. Also the plug on the Kymco has a 4 prong and a 2 prong. The 4 has a green a blue/yellow and a black yellow wire and the 2 prong has a black/blue wire if this helps. The CDIs look different, but the plugs are the same, but I have heard that some of the Kymcos are a DC Pulse system. I gotta get this thing up to speed because my car is out of commission now and I drive it to work. I have already derestricted the boss drive, the carb has an 86 main, and I derestricted the CDI, but I am still only getting to about 37. The CDI and coil I want to use are high performance and the CDI has a modified ignition curve with no rev limit. Thanks for your help, you've been very helpful with all of my questions.
-
If you want to go much past 37 mph you had better go to a larger than 50cc scooter . Good luck .
-
To my knowledge about all of the ignition coils are the same. I don't know what type of advantage it will give you over the stock one though. As for the CDI, I say plug it in and see if she goes! I doubt it would really do any damage if they were different. It will either work, or it won't. Good luck!
-
If you want to go much past 37 mph you had better go to a larger than 50cc scooter . Good luck .
..I run 37 uphill...
-
Sorry, the blew up was a baja and the new one is an agility 50. Both are 4 stroke. Also the plug on the Kymco has a 4 prong and a 2 prong. The 4 has a green a blue/yellow and a black yellow wire and the 2 prong has a black/blue wire if this helps. The CDIs look different, but the plugs are the same, but I have heard that some of the Kymcos are a DC Pulse system. I gotta get this thing up to speed because my car is out of commission now and I drive it to work. I have already derestricted the boss drive, the carb has an 86 main, and I derestricted the CDI, but I am still only getting to about 37. The CDI and coil I want to use are high performance and the CDI has a modified ignition curve with no rev limit. Thanks for your help, you've been very helpful with all of my questions.
..your next step to get you up to speed might be a variator replacement...
..I would suggest the Malossi Multivar, as it's what I have, with 5.5 gram rollers and the white main clutch spring..
..my A50 will run 50+ mph downhill, GPS verified..
..also, you want to make sure your valve clearance is correct..should be .04mm ..gotta keep those adjusted on these 50 4ts...
..verify that your tire pressures are good, as that will also make a difference..
peace
-
With de-restricted cdi you already have installed, and the drive boss done I believe you should be doing better than 37. As slinger suggested, Check your valve adjustment, and before you do that do a compression test. The Modified ign. curve on the other cdi may NOT match your scoots. requirements, so I would be careful about using it. I have a SUTAI programed cdi on a 2t. that gave me another 2-3 mph, but it was programed for the scoot. Check your belt width, your roller weight, and your compression/ valve specs., and I would bet you will find another 5-7 mph hiding in there. Good luck, and post back!
-
A vacuum gauge will give you a lot of info. Test with the engine warmed up to normal operating temps:
# gauge reading steady 17-22 in Hg indicates normal engine in good condition.
# gauge reading low (15-20 in Hg) but steady indicates late ignition or valve timing, low compression, stuck throttle valve, leaking carburetor or manifold gasket.
# gauge reading steady but dropping regularly indicates burnt valve or improper valve clearance.
# gauge reading dropping gradually at idle indicates choked muffler or obstruction in exhaust.
# gauge reading slowly dropping to zero as engine speeds up indicates choked muffler.
# gauge reading fluctuating between 15 and 20 in Hg at idle indicates stuck valve or ignition miss.
# gauge reading drifting indicates improper carburetor adjustment or minor intake leak at carburetor or manifold.
# gauge reading fluctuating as engine speed increases indicates weak valve springs, worn valve stem guides.
# gauge reading vibrating excessively at idle but steady as engine speeds up indicates worn valve guides.
# gauge reading vibrating excessively at all speeds indicates leaky cylinder head gasket.
-
I always had a dash mounted vacuum gauge in my old school hot rods. '70 440 'cuda- '67 400 firebird-'78 ws/6 trans am. It didn't occur to me to carry the idea to a smaller engine. That is an excellent trouble shooting guide!!!
-
I always had a dash mounted vacuum gauge in my old school hot rods. '70 440 'cuda- '67 400 firebird-'78 ws/6 trans am. It didn't occur to me to carry the idea to a smaller engine. That is an excellent trouble shooting guide!!!
..got it copied, printed and inserted into my service manual...
THANX OLDGUY!!
-
Always a pleasure. :) One more hint (Though not particularly useful in the context of scooters.) You can narrow a problem down to a particular cylinder by disconnecting one plug wire at a time.
-
I would call that a "balance check" on a multi cyl. engine. When I tried it on my scoot it just died, and I saw little birdies flying all around it...
-
Where does the vacuum gauge connect to? Or rather, where does it read from?
-
Thanks for all the input it was very helpful. the scooter is new,but I checked everything valve clearance, vacuum leaks, I put a Naraku high speed variator with 6.3gr rollers 1,000 RPM clutch spring, 86 main jet, and the exhaust is opened up. It has 716 miles on it ( so it should be broken in) with fresh oil and the carb is adjusted. All of the restrictors stayed on until a little over 500 miles. All of this gets me 40 MPH with poor take off and throttle response, aslo just about stopping on hills. One thing I have noticed is that the carb likes to be adjusted with the air/fuel screw all the way in where most take about 2-2-1/2 turns out. Is this all I should expect? If anyone has any other ideas let me know. I have a 72cc bbk, but I'm gonna wait until I get 1,000 miles on her before I put it on. I'll get a vacuum guage and check all of that out too, I think that will be very helpful, as my last 50 did way better with all of this ( only about 7MPH faster, but way better throttle response, acceleration, and hill climbing). Thanks guys this forum rocks!!!
-
Something really doesn't right! I would think you should be getting better that 40mph! Also, the air mix screw should not be adjusted all the way in! You would typically be very lean! I know any carb I have every adjusted, the motor wouldn't even run like that! I have heard that further in than 3/4 than out and you run the risk of engine damage. I would do some plug chops! I suspect something with the carb is the culprit.
-
I was just posting for wordslinger on the same subject. If you replace the clutch pad springs w/ a stiffer set , it will allow the engine to turn higher into the "power band, and give you a better take off. I believe the post is under "white spring" from franx93. As far as the carb goes; There are 2 types of systems.. The MOST common is a fuel adjustment. This will have an adjustment screw that is tapered from threads to end. The idea is you are adjusting the amount of fuel being drawn from the float bowl w/ the air being constant. If this is the type you have the Idle jet is too big. The second is an air adjusted system. The needle will have a long shaft w/ a tiny taper on the tip. approx 1/4". If this is your set up, the idle jet is too small. Compensating w/ the screw is NOT a good idea because of the de-accel. factor. When you close the throttle the engine is still turning high rpm;s. You need the proper balance of fuel/air to keep the piston cool. An "open" exhaust will cause this. Rather than buying boxes full of jets, I use pin drills, or welding tourch tip cleaners to open mine. Find the one that fits, an go to the next step up.
-
I would call that a "balance check" on a multi cyl. engine. When I tried it on my scoot it just died, and I saw little birdies flying all around it...
lmfao...ur crazy...
-
Thanks guys very useful info. Do you happen to have some pics. of the screws you are talking about zombie? I think it is a fuel adjustment, but am not sure. The carb is brand new, but I think you are probably right about the main jet possibly being too big. The pilot jet is a 30. I had a 35, but it got lost and the only other one I have is a 38 which I'm sure is too big. I only went from an 84 to an 86 main, but it wanted to be set all the way in from the factory. I too have never had one like this and tried to just set it at 1-3/4 turns out of fear, but it runs like crap and dies when I stop adjusted anywhere but all the way in or 1/2 turn at the most, which puzzles me.
-
Here is a link that will get to the Basic workings. This is for a Delorto, but the principals carry across the board. You will see the different styles to determine which type you have, and w/ that info deceide which way to go w/ your jet. I am running an air adjust system that also requires me to turn my metering screw about 3/4 out. I am running the jet rich on purpose to keep the piston cool on de-accell. I have to feather the throttle to avoid fouling, but I get a pretty good brake out of the engine. Hope the link helps take the mystery out of the carb. http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/dellorto_guide/dellorto.html (http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/dellorto_guide/dellorto.html)