KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: agilebda on September 07, 2017, 11:27:01 PM
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Hello .
My scoot heated up on the 3rd temperature bar. Luckily I was 30 seconds away from home.
Diagnosed everything and my fan wouldn't kick in. Circulating pump is okay. I swapped the switch on the radiator, swapped relay and still no fan kick in.
I rigged two wired leading from the fan to the battery just to test it out and the fan is fine. Seems like an electrical communication breakdown somewhere.
What are your thoughts?
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Did you check all the wire connections from the fan to the fuse box?
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There may be an EMI (Electro Magnetic Interferance) filter in the line as well as the wiring that kneeslider refers.
Karl
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Did you check all the wire connections from the fan to the fuse box?
I will do just that. Will do a continuity check on the wires. Thanks. I checked wiring and looks fine by eye. Is there another fuse other than the main fuses by the battery?
Actually this is a GTI 300. I posted in here cause the DT forum seems to be more active.
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There may be an EMI (Electro Magnetic Interferance) filter in the line as well as the wiring that kneeslider refers.
Karl, thanks so much. Great to see you online. This is actually for my GTI 300. (Non ABS version)
Is this EMI located in the harness somewhere?
Karl
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I would not think the EMI filter would be present in a non-ABS bike. I am guessing it would be near the fan motor or at least up front.
Karl
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Hi karl. I don't see anything EMI filter on the schematic or on the bike.
Tell me something.......is that switch on the radiator activated by warm coolant which flows past that switch in turn tells the fan to kick in? Could it be my thermostat itself?
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That's the switch, the one in the radiator. Normally open until coolant gets to a certain temp then closes turning fan on.
Karl
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Thanks Karl. This it it. I will swap and let you know how I make out. I see that the fan is also plugged into a relay as well.
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Possibly low coolant, an air bubble or corrosion in the system.
While you have it apart descaling isn't a bad idea.
Of course it could be more prosaic like a corrected connection in the harness. Had that issue with my burgman. Annoying to find but not too tough to fix.
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Well Karl.....as suspected, here's my problem.
Head gasket leak. Bad leak too. Good thing I didn't run the bike too much longer.
https://youtu.be/hlrY4Qnd7bo
What parts do you recommend for me to purchase? Just a head gasket? Might as well make a huge order? Still have to find the fan situation. I will purchase a new fan switch in addition.
What website do you recommend for ordering?
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Well Karl.....as suspected, here's my problem.
Head gasket leak. Bad leak too. Good thing I didn't run the bike too much longer.
https://youtu.be/hlrY4Qnd7bo
What parts do you recommend for me to purchase? Just a head gasket? Might as well make a huge order? Still have to find the fan situation. I will purchase a new fan switch in addition.
What website do you recommend for ordering?
No help here - but that is a really well done video - well shot, with good lighting and good focus. Horrible sight to see, though!
How many miles on your 300?
Stig
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Hi stig.
Awesome HD video if I must say so myself. I have 39,000 on my odo.
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I agree with Stig on your video! Parts required? We know one each head gasket. Drain the green stuff, get the head off and look at everything. Try to have the cylinder stay put when the head is off then you won't have to buy a cylinder base gasket. Then decide what you need. As long as it was running fine when this heating thing started you SHOULD NOT need too much. Take pictures of stuff you are not sure of and post 'em. Then maybe we can make recommendations.
Karl
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Thanks guys. Yeah she was running fine. I ordered: cylinder and head gasket, impeller pump and gaskets, impeller shaft and seals, therm switch, thermostat, oil filters.
I'm being in the safe side. Thanks guys and I will post pics of my mechanical work.
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Check the head and cylinder top for flat and get them shaved if not. Especially the head.
Karl
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Hi agilebda. Seems that you are pretty meticulous in your effort to do the job right, so here's a couple of other things you might want to do. I would suggest you de-carbonize the head. Open the valves and clean the seats good, with a product such as C4 or other de-carbonizing agent. No scraping. If the engine has been run hot, even for a short time, you might want to check the head for warping. This can be done by finding a known 100% level surface, large enough to tack, tape or staple a sheet of 1000 grit water rub down on it. Lay your head down on it with chamber dome down and with light pressure, make a oblong circle three or four times. Then wipe the mating surface off good and inspect it thoroughly. I use a lamp with a magnifying lens attached. The swirl marks should cover the entire surface. If an area is found with no swirls, then you have a warped head. (very old school, but it works every time.) While you are doing this inspection, also look for hair line cracks or any etching. Anti-freeze and hot exhaust gasses both can destroy a head, especially aluminum. Chances are more than good that you will have none of these conditions, but it only cost a few minutes to make sure. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Check the head and cylinder top for flat and get them shaved if not. Especially the head.
Thanks Karl.
Karl
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Hi agilebda. Seems that you are pretty meticulous in your effort to do the job right, so here's a couple of other things you might want to do. I would suggest you de-carbonize the head. Open the valves and clean the seats good, with a product such as C4 or other de-carbonizing agent. No scraping. If the engine has been run hot, even for a short time, you might want to check the head for warping. This can be done by finding a known 100% level surface, large enough to tack, tape or staple a sheet of 1000 grit water rub down on it. Lay your head down on it with chamber dome down and with light pressure, make a oblong circle three or four times. Then wipe the mating surface off good and inspect it thoroughly. I use a lamp with a magnifying lens attached. The swirl marks should cover the entire surface. If an area is found with no swirls, then you have a warped head. (very old school, but it works every time.) While you are doing this inspection, also look for hair line cracks or any etching. Anti-freeze and hot exhaust gasses both can destroy a head, especially aluminum. Chances are more than good that you will have none of these conditions, but it only cost a few minutes to make sure. Good luck and keep us posted.
Ole Two Wheels.
Many thanks for this. Seems as if my job got bigger in order for the best fix.
I decided to take to a well know top mechanic locally.
Thanks and I will keep posted.
Regards
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Hey CROSSBOLT,
I wonder if I can purchase a DT 350 cylinder, head, and piston to put on my motor..........sounds interesting being that it's the same crank stroke.
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I would not think the EMI filter would be present in a non-ABS bike. I am guessing it would be near the fan motor or at least up front.
Karl
the parts supplyer lists the relay as a filter could it be in with the relay, just looked it up #39100lea7-e00 EMI FILTER FAN MOTOR RELAY
$ 32.23 FROM POWERSPORTSWAREHOUSE.COM
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Happy Holidays to everyone.
Finally found the problem. It was a slight crack in the coolant hose which was introducing air into the system. It was restricting the flow of coolant across the fan switch, which in turn not allowing the fan to kick in.
Thanks for everything guys.
Peace Love and happiness to all of you on this holiday.