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Topics - MN_Scoot

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1
Agility 50 / Has anyone bought or found this cool headlight assembly upgrade for sale?
« on: May 13, 2015, 10:02:27 PM »
I have seen this on a couple wholesale Chinese sites where you have to buy like 300 of them.

Has anyone found a place to buy ONE? Anyone purchased? They look awesome, but would like to know if it is a quality piece. I would be curious to know if this fits all American market Kymco Agilities (I've seen a photo online of this on an Agility where the bodywork looked slightly different and had an air intake below the light).

I've also read on these forums that some higher intensity bulbs burn the headlight assembly housing. Hopefully, this wouldn't happen with this one.

Any info would be appreciated!

http://www.remastersys.com/sale/pz6e826d2-z58ccd5e-scooter-kymco-agility-50-125-headlight-assy-front-headlight-bulb-12v-25w.html

2
Technical | How To / Are special clamps for carburetor connections neccessary?
« on: May 05, 2015, 06:01:39 PM »
The intake manifold to carburetor connection and carburetor to air box connection both have clamps like this one from the factory:
http://www.partsforscooters.com/164-297-GY6-Intake-Manifold-Clamp

I have been having trouble finding clamps for a 50cc (plenty are available for the 150cc and I've confirmed those won't fit by trying out.

Can I just use the standard hose clamp like this: http://www.zoro.com/ideal-hose-clamp-12-to-1-14in-sae-12-ss-pk10-5712/i/G1492276/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CKK6m6iXq8UCFQwzaQodTI4A0Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

…or is there a reason top have the specific type of clamp they use from the factory?

Thanks.

3
Technical | How To / Please help - detailed instructions on removing/bypassing a50 emissions system
« on: May 04, 2015, 05:22:40 PM »
I have done multiple searches here and elsewhere about removing the emissions system…seems to be the last thing I can try to do to solve my WOT stalling out problem.

The instructions I have seen have slightly different emissions systems, so wanted to make sure I do this correctly with the Agility by posting photos. Can Anyone tell me exactly what I need to do to remove or bypass this system?

There are three hoses coming from the canister under the floorboard. I've labeled each in the photos below:

Has doing this solved anyone else's stalling out problems? Appreciate any help! I've cleaned or replaced almost every other system trying to get the a50 to stop stalling out.

4
Agility 50 / Detailed instruction on cleaning gas tank vent on Agility?
« on: April 14, 2015, 03:18:29 PM »
I've been looking all over these forums and see plenty of posts instructing to check for vapor lock and then clean or clear the vent, but I'm not seeing instructions on how to do this on the Agility. Youtube doesn't seem to have a video specific to our type of bikes as well.

Am I missing a tutorial somewhere for the Agility? Is the venting system in the cap, or from one of the tubes at the top? Please point me to instructions on how to clean/check as I can't seem to find it.

Thank you in advance for the help!

5
Technical | How To / Are one of these carburetors the answer to my problem?
« on: April 13, 2015, 04:57:22 AM »
I have been having recurring problems with my Agility 50 dyeing after about 45min of riding and often at WOT. I have recently cleaned with carb cleaner and saw light through the jet's pin holes. One of the last times it killed on me while riding, I coasted to the streetside and pulled the plug. As you can see, I have a lean condition.

I adjusted the air/fuel mix with a digital tach and it was optimized at almost 4 turns out which is quite a bit above the 2.5 recommended in the service manual. The mix screw turned that far out while still running lean means I need a larger main jet, right?

After all the hassle, I'm thinking of taking the easy way out and ordering one of the below-linked carbs. I've read so many horror stories on this forum of people ordering jets that don't fit the threads/jets that take forever to come/bad customer service.

That said, does anyone think one of the two following links are the easy answer to my problem? I've read here that 20mm carbs are plug and play, but even for GY6, there seem to be many variations.

Or do you recommend some other quick solution or link to a carb you recommend? I really need to use the scooter right away. Thanks in advance for any help!

This one says it's for big bore scooters, but maybe it would work for a stock scoot as well?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/True-20mm-Performance-Carburetor-139QMB-GY6-Scooter-Carb-KEIHIN-CVK-50cc-100cc-/171734637047?hash=item27fc2e99f7&vxp=mtr

The description for this one specifically states it's for a Kymco Agility, but doesn't list jet sizes:
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/kymco-agility-50-19-mm-carburetor-with-electric-choke.html

6
Agility 50 / Does anyone know what the hell this part is?
« on: August 11, 2014, 04:29:33 AM »
Ever since I got the Agility new from the dealer, it had this random metal piece in the under seat storage. I've hung on to it, but can't seem to see where it would go. I had the dealer derestrict the scoot, but nothing else was done by them.

Any ideas?



7
Technical | How To / Mods and MPG
« on: August 07, 2014, 02:05:33 PM »
Hey all,

Curious to hear how some of the mods have affected MPG.

Specifically, I'm curious what I can expect jumping from stock to the 1000 contra spring and 7 gram Dr. Pulleys, but would be curious on various mods.

I'm excited to not have to practically walk my scoot up some hills, but hopefully won't lose much of my 107mpg.

8
Technical | How To / How-to check all vacuum lines
« on: June 25, 2014, 06:39:55 PM »
I've looked through this forum for info on vacuum issues. I see plenty of mentions to "check your vacuum, but can't seem to find info onhow.

The most I've seen is to disconnect the vacuum line from your intake manifold and suck on it. Not being able to suck apparently means you're good. Aren't there more lines to be tested than this one? If I'm missing a forum post, could someone please link to that one where it explains how to test the entire vacuum system on our bikes?

9
Technical | How To / SOLVED - Yet another stalling mystery
« on: June 12, 2014, 12:09:25 AM »
I solved my last stalling problem when I realized the carb had loosened from the intake. Tightened it up again and it ran great for about a week.

Now, I have the same symptoms, even though the clamp is now tight. Everything runs great for about the first 3-4 miles. Then, I can feel it start to lose power and if I approach a stop light, it dies as I'm slowing down. I can always get it started again by holding the throttle open all the way like you would for a flooded engine. Could the engine be flooding itself as I drive?

It often seems to happen on straight-aways with full throttle (after the first 3-4 miles). Not sure if this is a red herring, but it also doesn't seem to happen at night when it's slightly cooler.

I somewhat suspect the choke needs to be replaced since the problem is somewhat sporadic. -it also won't start in the morning without me holding the throttle open a bit for the first 2 minutes before it will idle on its own.

This problem developed after the following maintenance completed a month ago:
cleaned carb/jets (added new gasket and o rings)
adjusted valves
new fuel filter
new air filter
new spark plug
adjusted idle to rpm spec in manual

Appreciate the help!


10
Agility 50 / Best spring and slider weights for stock Agility 50
« on: June 10, 2014, 06:27:30 PM »
I keep reading forum posts about slider weights and can't seem to find consensus on what might be best for a stock Agility 50. 5.5g keeps coming up as a great weight for rollers, but I read that sliders are not a direct conversion.

So…I'm wondering what the best combo is for a stock Agility 50 to keep the top end about the same, but accelerate better and go up hills faster than my current 15mph.  :-\

The best guess I have after pouring through a lot of different views is a 1500 spring and 7 gram Dr. Pulley sliders.

-I am about 190lbs if that matters, but I'd like it to be a good combo for various riders/passengers.

On a separate note, I keep seeing complete kits for transmission upgrades like this:  http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/super-transmission-kit-50cc-gy6-qmb139-engines-ncy.html
-would this be overkill? Seems like a lot of people get the performance they want after only a spring and sliders.

Thanks.

11
Technical | How To / Is there asbestos in kymco clutch and brake pads?
« on: June 08, 2014, 06:54:40 AM »
I've read that asbestos is largely eliminated in modern vehicles, but I've also read there is concern with asbestos still being used in parts coming from China. Anyone know if the stock clutch and brake pads on Kymcos are asbestos free?

Got curious about this when reading here about people sanding their clutch pads.

12
Technical | How To / Newly cleaned and tuned carb bogging
« on: May 23, 2014, 05:52:54 AM »
Last riding season, I had some slight bogging when starting from stop signs. I would have to feather the throttle before it finally "caught" then, it'd accelerate fine.

Trying to solve this annoying problem, I recently took apart and cleaned my carb -used carb cleaner throughout and replaced the gasket, and o-rings. When done, I adjusted the air/fuel mixture after a 10 minute warmup and taking plenty of catchup time between 1/8 adjustments. I even used a digital tach to set the idle to Kymco spec 1900.

I also replaced the fuel filter, air filter, spark plug and cracked ignition coil.

The bog was still there, but it otherwise ran pretty well the first couple rides.

Now tonight, it not only bogged so bad it never caught and would die at intersections, it also would sometimes die as soon as I let off the throttle approaching stop lights (especially after full throttle). It didnt want to start after these, and i would have to hold the throttle all the way open before it would begin starting again. At some intersections, it would be just fine.

Could it possible have anything to do with the autochoke becoming faulty? Seems like that might explain the intermittent nature of this problem.

Appreciate any help. Banging my head against a wall here.

13
Eye Candy | Videos and Pics / 2007 Agility restoration
« on: May 06, 2014, 05:45:07 AM »
Pretty excited to have just finished my winter project in time for Spring. Thought I'd share:



started with this


pulled apart a few bits, painted them up, rebuilt the carb, adjusted the valves, changed all the fluids, filters, etc.


made some custom graphics


and now she's ready for Spring.

14
Technical | How To / How many pulses per revolutions for 4 stroke agility?
« on: April 22, 2014, 04:38:34 AM »
I just bought a cheap tach to adjust my idle speed. It says to first calibrate the tach for your motorcycle (how many pulses per revolution). In the directions, it says "most offroad motorcycles use 1pulse per 1 revolution and that motos with lighting systems typically have ignitions that send 2 pulses per revolution.

Wouldn't a 4 stroke Agility send 1 pulse per 2 revolutions (i.e. 1 spark during combustion stroke)?

Thanks in advance.

15
Technical | How To / Dielectric grease between battery connection?
« on: March 14, 2014, 03:00:52 PM »
I have poured through forums here and elsewhere about dielectric grease and I have never seen so much conflicting information on a topic.

My problem is that I consistently lose my battery connection while riding (even after contact cleaner and steel brushing each part of the connection). Often, I can stomp the floor above the battery compartment and get my connection temporarily back while I'm riding.

Anyway, to improve this situation permanently, some people swear by smearing dielectric grease on the terminal and connector and that tightening will squeeze out the non-conductive grease and keep out moisture and corrosion. Others swear that doing this compromises the connection even further.

Does anyone have authoritative advice on how, if at all, I should use dielectric grease for my battery? Any other advice for this connection problem?

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