Warm-up your aircooled scooter?

[Stig / Major Tom]

I've made it a practice to take a few minutes to warm up my vehicles powered by air cooled engines. Started with my 4 VWs, and continue the practice with my LIKE200I. (as an old VW owner, the simplicity of LIKE's a/c engine was a big selling  point for me).
You folks warming them up, too?
My manual states that this should be a regular  practice.
Stig
PS: there is a famous old VW  DIY manual that tells you just how long this warm up period should last. Anyone remember his advice? °¿°

[Scooter Dan]

I've made it a practice to take a few minutes to warm up my vehicles powered by air cooled engines. Started with my 4 VWs

You too, 3 buses and 1 wagon for me. Would love to have one of those camper conversions. Warming up and frequent oil changes, best advice for air cooled and in my book, all engines. Did mine every 1k.

[big blue]

I always do a little warm-up. I start the scoot and then put on my helmet and gloves this takes about 4-5 mins. Then ride gently for the first mile or so. 2 bus campers and 2 beetles as well as a squareback for me and a Porsche/VW 914.

[vespbretta]

Here is what I do and never had an issue:
I start my aircooled scooter, let it idle for a few seconds only and then gently start riding not faster than maybe 30-40MpH for the first 1-1,5 Miles.
Try to keep the revs and rpm´s under 4000rpm.
I am not a big fan of letting the scooter sit and idle for a long time and I think it´s not nessecary and doesn´t make much sense technically and environmentally. Plus I am always using high quality engine oils. Oil changes about every 3000 miles or once a year.

I am not a winter rider, but if needed, I probably would only elongate the obove procedures a little bit near or below freezing temps.

Bye the way I do about the same with my car except the higher speedlimits and longer oil changing intervalls. I start driving pretty much immediately summer and winter. Why not.

[AMAC1680]

I tend to let my VW air kooled fleet warm up , although the Germans have never been a fan.
From the 1973 owners manual.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/73bug/73T1-32.jpg

That said 40 years ago that dirty leaded gas would cause carbon buildup fast if left to idle so their advice  may be dated. Stock motors not as much as some of my bigger , 2200cc up, can still carbon up of left idling too long.

AMAC

[Stig / Major Tom]

I might respectfully disagree about the VW's manual advice. That's a '73 manual you posted. Near the end of the Beetle's permitted life in N. America.
In 1971 & forward, the USA Beetles were saddled with a really crappy Eco-friendly attempt to get the admittedly dirty VW engines certified for sale. You needed to get these cars moving ASAP, and be ready to re-start them at the first light, when they died. They went to FI eventually to get less filthy and still run....seen in the cabrios which sold on for yrs.

Earlier VW engines were even filthier - but no one cared - and they ran nice. Those you idled a bit before setting off. (per John Muir - who wrote the VW bible - you idled your VW for the length of time it took to roll & light a nice joint. No longer, no less.
My LIKE stinks and would never pass an E-Check here in Ohio. Fortunately they discontinued them here. So seems to be a good candidate for warming - as instructed in the manual.

The book is fun to read - with great illustrations and chapter headings and useful advice!





Would be super if someone would do such a scooter repair book!!
Stig

[Redk]

I recall the 'Gas Crisis' and the 'Shell Answer Man'.

He declared something like a minute from a cold start before engaging a gear and driving gently for at least a few blocks before  hitting the onramp and freeway speed.

I would never let an engine sit there and idle for a full warmup.
Though I did when operating Cummins powered rigs. It was enough time to bump tires and check running lights and such.

It all depends on engineering, construction, mass, tolerances, and wear on the engine in question.
An old VW with 1500cc or smaller would really be difficult to hurt once it came off the choke.
Yah, I've had a flock of those, too.
redk

[Iahawk]

Just like big blue...after checking tire pressures and oil level, fire it up....put on jacket, helmet and gloves...in the couple minutes this takes the idle drops down from high idle to regular and then it's time to ride.

[Tromper]

I'm out of air-cooled for the nonce, but really treat my H2O stuff the same.  a few minutes while donning apparel etc.
With the 650 I note that my winter MPG was better on my 11 mile commute if I let it run until the exhaust started steaming (~2-3 min).

RE: the VW's.  It is of note that the advice offered by Muir predicated using a single weight oil.  Warming that is more of a thing than the multi's.  Really was kind of the point of the multi-visc stuff.

[Mr. Paul]

I'm out of air-cooled for the nonce, but really treat my H2O stuff the same.  a few minutes while donning apparel etc.
With the 650 I note that my winter MPG was better on my 11 mile commute if I let it run until the exhaust started steaming (~2-3 min).

RE: the VW's.  It is of note that the advice offered by Muir predicated using a single weight oil.  Warming that is more of a thing than the multi's.  Really was kind of the point of the multi-visc stuff.

Excellent point about the oil Tromper. I hadn't even considered that.

[Redk]

Yes, I'd certainly agree the newest multi-viscosity lubricants are far superior to what was offered years ago !
redk

[CROSSBOLT]

Always let my Pratt & Whitney's warm until the oil temp gauges started to move....

Karl

[Mr. Paul]

Always let my Pratt & Whitney's warm until the oil temp gauges started to move....

Karl

Radials Karl?

[CROSSBOLT]

985's in Beaver and Beech 18, PT-6 dint worry....

Karl

PS:Turbines are "round" motors, too!

[Mr. Paul]

Not to get off topic but dang Karl. I am a total aircraft noob but the Dehavilland Beaver has been one of my favorites for a long time.