45,000km Downtown - maintenence report

[kneeslider]

Hi, to vent tje gas cap I simple just open and close it right?
But how do I fix a sticky vacumn valve & where is it located?

Kneeslider, vent the gas cap! The vacuum valve is sticking.

Karl

[CROSSBOLT]

Pulling the cap will vent it temporarily. I'm talking drill a hole in the cap. I have a post on here that shows how and where (last of the pictures I have been able to post). The vent valve, vacuum actuated, is in an impossible place to access. It IS accessible but will take hours and hours of removing stuff to get to it. It is just more practical to drill a hole. The DT300i cap looks like it was made for that hole to be where I put it. Find the pics and it will make sense. I have had ZERO start, idle, run problems since the cap was vented. Used to do the TPS/ISC RESET procedure to solve the problem but don't have to do that anymore. Do not know why reset would work anyway but it did. Dealers did not know how to solve the problem or what the cause. All that was solved here.

Karl

[kneeslider]

Didn't someone mention before that the gas tank is a pressurized unit which if it's not, the bike won't run properly?

[CROSSBOLT]

When it is pressurized with either positive or negative pressure is when the engine runs badly or not at all. The tank should be vented to atmosphere anytime the engine is running.

Karl

[tvniklas]

One tip when replacing belts - ALWAYS greases the splines where the axle contacts the variator. They will rust and seize together if you don't.

I do not understand exactly where to put grease. What kind of grease i should use, I suspect it needs to resist heat.
I can see a little bit of rust has started there, but i dont want it on the belt

[mousejunks]

I do not understand exactly where to put grease. What kind of grease i should use, I suspect it needs to resist heat.
I can see a little bit of rust has started there, but i dont want it on the belt

When you remove the variator from the drive shaft, there are splines on the shaft that hold the variator in place. You can apply a thin layer of hi-temp grease so they slide on/off easily at the next time of disassembly. I used Inox MX6, but you can also use wheel bearing grease as well, e.g. Valvoline Valplex.

[kneeslider]

Guys,

I have done 49,000kms on my DT 200.

I have never replaced my rollers, variator nor the clutch. How can I tell if they need replacement?

Thanks.

[mousejunks]

Guys,

I have done 49,000kms on my DT 200.

I have never replaced my rollers, variator nor the clutch. How can I tell if they need replacement?

Thanks.

Variator - check the inside drive faces for ridges or pits. If so, replace both variator plates.

Rollers - remove them and measure them. They should be 20x12 mm. However if you do little start stop traffic they wear is unlikely.

Clutch - remove the bell and measure the friction pads. There should be more than 2mm.

[tvniklas]

When you remove the variator from the drive shaft, there are splines on the shaft that hold the variator in place. You can apply a thin layer of hi-temp grease so they slide on/off easily at the next time of disassembly. I used Inox MX6, but you can also use wheel bearing grease as well, e.g. Valvoline Valplex.

Thanks a lot mousejunks 🖒😊

[Nireen]

NICE!  I am a baby at only 11000 km's This is a good list here and I will go over my bike with the oil leaking part now to be sure all is good.  Also the airbox. 

My DT300i passed the 45,000km mark a few weeks ago and I have made up a list of things which failed but were fixed.

- The plastic cover over the magnetic part of the key was peeling off. I ripped it off and covered the

gap with epoxy glue to prevent it from further damage.
- Seat won't close - adjusted the two seat cables to increase the tension, also making it easier to open with the key.
- Oil leak from right crankcase cover - there is a small circular cover on the right side of the engine. This can simply be tightened with a coin or sealed up with gasket maker. There was also an oil leak from where the wires insert into the stator, also sealed up with gasket maker.
- Indicators won't cancel - the left handlebar controls were disassembled and a blob of solder was put onto the pin that actuated the sliding switch.
- Yellow cracked windshield - replaced
- Holes in air filter - the air filter box has an intake tube that came loose. This caused it to move around and damaged the paper element of the air filter. The tube was glued back into place and the air filter replaced.
- Exhaust muffler paint fade - repainted with high-heat black paint (Dupli-Color brand).
- Exhaust muffler cover wobbling - the rubber around bolts breaks down due to heat from the muffler, as well as dropping the bike. I simply removed the cover.

Despite these issues, they did not affect the mechanical reliability of the bike. It starts everytime and runs smoothly and I expect it to last for many more years. I also bought it second-hand without any servicing history, so it was mistreated before I owned it - the cracked headlight housing and black grime in the transmission were clues.

[mrbios]

I'm almost at 50,000km ...

One tip when replacing belts - ALWAYS greases the splines where the axle contacts the variator. They will rust and seize together if you don't.

Great tip.  My rear variator on my 2005 Grandvista would stick and stay engaged partially at around 18K miles.  I dissembled and cleaned everything and replaced both of the large o-rings with ones from Grainger catalog and used mobile 1 synthetic grease and it not only works great but better than ever - no more squeak / squeal when pulling away on a steep hill.

[kneeslider]

Same thing when changing tires, grease the drive shaft as the bearing on the right side 'swing arm' will rust and sieze on that shaft.

[shalbern]

Hi Crossbow,

What is the link to your pics on venting the gas cap?

Thanks

[CROSSBOLT]

Oh, Shalbern, that' an oldie! I will hunt it down and get back.....

Karl

[CROSSBOLT]

Search for:Re: Pressurized fuel tank-DT300. Use "crossbolt" as author and go to page 2. Pictures are there.

Karl