Author Topic: Peak final charge heavy duty coolant?  (Read 1982 times)

hypophthalmus

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Peak final charge heavy duty coolant?
« on: June 15, 2016, 06:23:26 PM »
Is the suitable for use it scooters?

http://www.peakhd.com/product-lines/final-charge/faq/

They say it's silicate and phosphate free. And I think I read somewhere that it's also 2-eh free. Is there any reason I shouldn't use it, aside from the truck picture on the bottle?

TLRam1

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Re: Peak final charge heavy duty coolant?
« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2016, 05:19:37 AM »
As long as it is silicate free and okay for aluminum, you will be fine.
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hypophthalmus

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Re: Peak final charge heavy duty coolant?
« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2016, 04:03:39 AM »
I guess there's no real reason to anyways. I thought it might be easier to find and cheaper than the peak global lifetime that I was using before, but it's not.

If I was willing to drive a bit, it seems that NAPA has a good price on the peak global lifetime. I decided to go with the Zerex Asian though, which is a bit expensive but not too terrible at Walmart. It's 2-EH and silicate free. For some reason, I thought the phosphate was bad but apparently that's only if you mix it with tap water, something that I would never do anyways. Perhaps that's why they only sell it premixed. It also has the advantage of not being clear, so I can casually check the level in the reservoir.

It sounds like possibly the low-silicate conventional and HOAT coolants would even be fine, but I'd prefer to be on the safer side.

Redk

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Re: Peak final charge heavy duty coolant?
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2017, 06:31:12 AM »
tapwater?

Tapwater !

TAPWATER !!!



Here, we would only use the tapwater if there were small leaks that needed to be plugged up.

Yah, pre-mixed is kind of a rip-off.
Distilled water is the only thing that should be used in a mix.
redk


mrbios

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Re: Peak final charge heavy duty coolant?
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2017, 02:13:25 AM »
The real problem which can ruin your motor is overheating.  Don't drain the coolant all the way.  Doing so creates air pockets that can only be expelled with time consuming effort of rocking the scooter side to side for 20min + with the motor running.  I leaned this when I emptied my GV250 ran it for 5 min with the radiator cap off to expel air.  I was perfect until I got on the highway and noticed all 5 bars lit and blinking!  Made it home and used the rock back and forth method multiple times.  I nearly burned the motor up.  So I don't recommend changing the coolant at all.  But if you do only let about 1/2 out and repeat in a month or so.  You gain little and risk you motor or head gasket. Bad design on the Kymco - passages leading to the motor are too small. 

My local dealer confirmed all of this and other scooters also can have the same issue if the hoses are too small. 

Also, for once... if you decide to empty the system buy the OEM coolant because it is dark green so it is visible in the coolant tank.  Normal antifreez is light green and you can barely see the level so it is worth the extra money for "motorcycle" ("dark green") coolant.
PaulC

hypophthalmus

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Re: Peak final charge heavy duty coolant?
« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2017, 10:33:20 PM »
My understanding is that the coolant needs to be changed because the corrosion inhibitors become depleted/deteriorated. I don't think anyone knows what's in the original coolant, so it's difficult to speculate how soon that might be. Mixing coolant types supposedly reduces the service interval to two years (I think), which is why I've stuck to that.

So far I've had no issues with overheated after coolant changes.

As it turns out, the Zerex Asian coolant I went with is still quite hard to see. But better than what I was using before.

The premixed is more expensive, but considering a $12 bottle should be good for 2 changes with some to spare, it's not so bad. I'd even consider buying it for the convenience.

Mr. Paul

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Re: Peak final charge heavy duty coolant?
« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2017, 10:46:23 PM »
My understanding is that the coolant needs to be changed because the corrosion inhibitors become depleted/deteriorated. I don't think anyone knows what's in the original coolant, so it's difficult to speculate how soon that might be. Mixing coolant types supposedly reduces the service interval to two years (I think), which is why I've stuck to that.

So far I've had no issues with overheated after coolant changes.

As it turns out, the Zerex Asian coolant I went with is still quite hard to see. But better than what I was using before.

The premixed is more expensive, but considering a $12 bottle should be good for 2 changes with some to spare, it's not so bad. I'd even consider buying it for the convenience.




I use the Zerex also. I cannot see how it could harm anything.
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