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I recall having a Ford instrument cluster rebuilt around 2006 because of a sticky temp guage. Cost about 200 USD. Replacement from Ford was 1500, salvage yard was 700....
The xciting clusters are known for being glitchy. Corrosion on the contacts is common as stated above as is component failure. As Stig suggests, a dodgy earth is also common.
Mine is on its way out with a fading LCD and an intermittent dash light fault. I suspect there is a dry joint on the PCB somewhere in your case (I reckon this is what is causing my dodgy light connection).
Unless you’re a whiz with a multimeter or you know someone who may be able to track the issue down, I suspect your pcb is toast. There are firms online who allegedly can repair pcbs but it’s probably going to be just as cheap to keep a weather eye on eBay/gumtree/Craigslist etc to see if one comes up. They’re not cheap to replace with a new part at £227 a pop but I may end up going down this route myself simply as my scoot was originally a 500i and I’ve upspecced it to R trim. The instrument panel is still the old i-spec so it could do with replacing anyway.
Using second hand parts off eBay is always a gamble so unless you can find one properly cheap, you might be better off biting the bullet and buying a new one with warranty. Before you do though, make sure you are getting power to the plug block by using a multimeter. If you’re not getting a decent feed, your problem lies elsewhere.
HTH
Fav
I have some Kymco scooters that I want to part out. None of them are complete bikes since I used parts off them to fix other Kymcos that I own and ride.
2013 Downtown 300i, Good motor, seat, mirrors, gauges, switches, electronics more. crashed hard in front.
2006 People 250,
2006 Bet and Win
2009 People S200
2009 Xciting 500 Good motor, mostly complete
2006 Xciting 500 motor knocks, complete otherwise.
2006 Grand Vista Runs but carb is bad.
I'm not able to ship larger items because I'm freshly out of back surgery and can't lift more than 5 pounds. So you would need to pick up near Palm Desert CA. in So Cal. As time goes by I will recover (I hope) and may be able to do more.
I vote for connector corrosion.
Saw this once before on different vehicle.
Turned out to be a loose battery ground wire - making partial contact. Thing would run , but dash was all crazy.
Stig
I looked at the schematic and it seems that all power to the display module comes from the ignition switch. Unless you have a shorted wire somewhere, the ignition switch is likely the problem. It should disconnect the power when turned Off. A contact inside the switch mechanism is making a connection that it shouldn't be. I would get some electrical contact cleaner (comes in a spray can with a thin straw-like nozzle), and spray it liberally down deep into the keyhole. The cleaner won't hurt anything -- it evaporates and leaves a protective film on electrical contacts and a very fine lubricant on mechanical parts. If you have the fairing off, you might be able to get the spray into the ignition switch contacts, which are likely down toward the bottom of the unit. Look for any open slots or holes to spray into. Then, with the battery disconnected, exercise the keyswitch back and forth through its range a couple of dozen times. Reconnect the battery and find out if this helped. Alternatively, or if that doesn't do any good, you can use an ohmmeter in conjunction with the schematic and test the ignition switch, if you know how to read a schematic. Last ditch effort would be to replace the ignition switch -- but I would test the switch first. Last thought: while unlikely, look for pinched or exposed wires in the ignition switch and dash area.
