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Topics - chaz35

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Super 9 / regular gas
« on: November 24, 2017, 04:49:53 PM »
I got confused and filled up with regular gas last time.  I think we are supposed to run high test, which I have always run in the past.  I went ahead and rode it to see how it would run.  Seemed to run fine, no issues, plus may have been the way the wind was blowing, but turned 10,000 revs on a section, seems would usually never turn much over 9,000 before.

I used to run low test regular in 2 cycle 100cc engines I raced on kart, was the recommended fuel, at high rev's it burns faster and works better than high test.  Maybe, the same with these engines too?  Cheers

2
For Sale / 2005 Kymco People 50 2T OEM muffler
« on: May 09, 2017, 05:40:13 PM »
used 2005 Kymco People 50 2T OEM muffler, in very good condition, no dents, plastic heat guard a little scratched up, but not bad.  This is the good one without the extra tubes, free flowing, better performance than what came on later models.  I can send some pics, if you provide email address.  Asking $50 plus shipping OBO.  Thanks for looking :-)

3
Roadcraft / side wind, how much too much?
« on: February 18, 2017, 06:11:21 PM »
I rode recently on a very windy day, was fairly scary.

Riding on 2 lane country roads, speed limit 50 to 60 mph, not much traffic.  I usually like to move from side to side in my lane, will move away from the center with oncoming traffic or passing car, and move back close to center line.  I was getting blown around so much, was worried about getting pushed over the center line or off the road, if too close to either side.

I once got on the white line on the outside shoulder and kept weaving back and forth over it, a little out of control, maybe could have gone off the road.  I tried going faster, but didn't seem to help, so I lowered my speed.

After awhile, I got more confident, but cut my ride short, I was worn out from fighting the wind.

My question:  I guess the wind can push the tires out from under the scooter as you are leaning to the side to maintain a straight line, what point do you know it's dangerous.  Cheers

4
Kymco pn 37200-KGB5-M31 speed meter assembly, new.  Asking $100 plus shipping OBO.

I ordered for my 2003 Super 9 LC and received the wrong part, can't return it, so need to sell it.  The one I need is on ebay right now pn 37200-KGB5-M30 for $180 free shipping.  The difference is the mechanism the speedometer cable fits into.  I need the angled one, I got the straight one, that's what is for sale.  This speed meter assembly is for newer Super 9 LC with larger smoke fairing in front of the speed meter assembly.

Send PM if have questions or comments.  Thanks for looking.  Cheers





5
Super 9 / wheel valve stems what size?
« on: January 31, 2016, 06:48:28 PM »
I am putting on new tires and want to replace the 90 degree angled one on the front wheel.  I like the straight better, easier to check the air pressure.  Anyway, I know the wheels are made in Italy and the valve stems look smaller OD than what I am used to.

I did a little research and found there are generally 2 sizes 8.3mm and 11.3mm, I am thinking I need 8.3mm.  Just checking to see if anyone knows.  Cheers

6
Super 9 / anyone run snowmobile 2T oil?
« on: January 15, 2016, 12:44:02 AM »
I started out running Amsoil Terminator (full synthetic), a very good oil, but then got hard to find at a good price.  So I looked around and got some good deals on snowmobile oil (full synthetic), as I recall I bought 2 different gallons of the stuff.  I don't remember brands, but no problems, no smoke, worked great.

After that, I didn't see any more good deals on snowmobile oil, so I decided to try some semi-synthetic.  I figured, just street riding, I was wasting my $'s on expensive full synthetic.  I looked around and decided on Lucas Semi-Synthetic, had good reviews, and very good price.  I bought a gallon and started using it.  Weather was warmer and was working OK for me, so I bought another gallon. 

I think it's a pretty good oil in hot weather, but cooler weather it was giving me trouble.  1st it smokes, not just a little, but a lot.  Next, with the LC engine, I think it takes awhile to warm up, and 1st couple of red lights after idling awhile, it became a mosquito fogger, and ran bad until it cleared out after the light turned green.  I even think it was messing up my carb tuning, plus was fouling plugs fast.

So, I started looking for another full synthetic and after a lot of research I settled on Lucas Snowmobile Oil (full synthetic), another snowmobile oil.  The other choice was Bel-Ray Si-7 full synthetic, but Lucas Snowmobile was less $'s so I tried it.  I also looked hard at Royal Purple Full Synthetic, but was pre-mix only, not recommended for oil injection systems.  Funny thing, I read that Royal Purple makes the full synthetic snowmobile oil for Lucas.  You have to look at the Lucas website, but the Lucas Snowmobile oil is recommended
for premix and oil injection.

If the Lucas Snowmobile gives me trouble, I am going to Bel-Ray Si-7 next.  So far, it's like night and day, no more smoking, idles better, no more loading up at red lights.  When weather turns hot I will try to run the Lucas Semi-Synthetic again, but for cool weather I don't like it.

Cheers

7
I am thinking about getting this kit (Malossi 1611028) and doing some research before I buy it.  Looks like great kit, and appears to be lots of information on how to tune it.

However, I have seen very little information on how to install the throttle cable.  Actually, what I see is comments about messing up the Kymco throttle cable trying to get the carb top cap off.  Also, I know the Malossi carb is 19mm and the Kymco carb is 16mm so the Malossi carb has approx 1/8" longer throw to reach WOT, which has to mess up the oil injection linkage.  At 1st I thought the longer throw would need some adjustment at the hand control, but after I realized it was only approx 1/8" seems like that wouldn't be an issue.

I know many recommend disabling the oil injection pump anyway, but I would like to keep it.  I haven't seen anything on how to adjust the linkage for the oil injection pump to allow for the additional movement of the throttle cable.

Anyone know know how to to make a nice neat throttle cable install to the 19mm PHBG carb and keep the oil injection pump connected so it works properly?  Any comments welcomed.  Cheers


8
Super 9 / Malossi Torque Driver 618317 install
« on: January 06, 2016, 12:47:40 AM »
I got this part months ago and initially couldn't figure out how to install it.  If you do a thorough web search, you will find many machine down the lip that makes if different from the Kymco oem part, and the reason it doesn't install without modification.  There are a few posts out there of people like me that don't have access to a machine shop, didn't want to spend any extra $'s to intall a part that was advertised to be bolt on, but doesn't work without modification.

I had it for sale, but not any more, will probably buy another one now.  Recently, my CVT has been giving me fits.  I get it set-up the way I want it, it works right for awhile and then starts to go out of set-up.  A big part of the problem is the Kymco oem torque driver has 2 angles in the grooves that control how fast the torque driver opens/ closes.  It's a little like having overdrive, and shifts the CVT into overdrive before you want it, killing revs and acceleration.  The Malossi torque driver has straight cut grooves which eliminates the dog leg overdrive problem, and has 2 different angles you can try.  As I understand it, the steeper angle moves the pulley in and out faster, the less steep angle moves it slower or stays in position longer for more revs at lower speeds.

Since no one wanted it, and if I could get it installed it would probably help the CVT perform better, I kept brain storming different ways to install it.  I think the lip was left extra to strengthen the pulley, so I didn't want to remove it.  The collar seal is pretty beefy, so I started thinking about just trimming off the top of the collar seal and letting the bottom rest on the edge of the lip.  The o-ring seal at the bottom of the collar seal is larger than the top o-ring and appeared to make a good seal.  I read that machining down the lip makes it difficult to seal the grease in, so I was concerned about leaking grease.

I was also concerned about the bottom of the collar seal becoming fatigued and failing over time, so I thought it should be supported on the bottom like the Kymco oem.  The ID is approx 48mm, and there aren't many shims/ washers that size.  I finally realized the torque spring wire was about the right thichness and maybe one coil would work to support the bottom of the collar seal.  I cut a coil out of the extra white spring I got with my Malossi variator kit and it appeared to be about perfect, right thickness, a little too large ID, but very close.

I cut down the top edge of the collar seal with a little 5" table disk sander I have.  Didn't take long, only had to cut it down approx 5/16" or so.  I left a little so the o-ring at bottom would be compressed a little to make a good seal, and the spring coil keeps it from being compressed too much, just right.

I checked all the pieces, cleaned everything, greased it and assembled it.  Only issue, with the top o-ring installed, the collar seal was very tight to get installed.  I think the o-ring groove on the Malossi torque driver is a little small and lets the o-ring stick out a little too much?  Anyway, I eventually got it together without bending anything and looks great, I was very pleased.  It's going to be a bear to disassemble later.

For the test, I used everything Kymco oem, except for the Malossi torque driver, i.e. Kymco variator, rollers, fly springs, torque spring, no Malossi torsion controller.  I took it out for a ride, and was very impressed.  I miss the Malossi variator, maybe, and needs lighter rollers, but scooter really liked this set-up.  Starting out, would rev to 8000 revs to get going, then settle down to 7000 revs and just stay there until revs started climbing again once CVT was in highest gear.  Scooter was fairly fast, but will be faster when I get CVT to rev to approx 7500 and stay there.  It was so cool not to get bogged down at approx 40mph, like it does as the Kymco torque driver moved through the dog leg.

Next I start over tuning the CVT:  install lighter Dr Pulley sliders, reinstall the Malossi variator, install Green Malossi torque spring (least stift torque spring), probably leave out Malossi torsion controller because the spring is already compressed by the lip at the bottom of the torque driver.  I will monitor for any problems, but don't think there will be any.  Score one for Malossi, I think this torque driver will be great.  Cheers


9
People 50 / Malossi primary gear 6711055
« on: January 01, 2016, 11:17:36 PM »
Got Malossi primary gear kit 6711055 for People 50 2T.  Disassembled gearbox today, and kit doesn't fit.  The 2 gears that are changed out after assembly don't touch by approx 1/2".  Of course, since this is Malossi, no returns, sad for me.

10
Super 9 / Malossi final drive
« on: November 28, 2015, 03:45:46 PM »
Anybody install Malossi final drive 6711802 kit?  I saw one comment where it hurt acceleration, wasn't really happy with it.  I know probably shouldn't do it without BBK.  Just wondering if anyone installed it and is happy with it?  How much trouble to install?  Any comments welcomed.  Cheers

11
Super 9 / deleted
« on: November 28, 2015, 03:45:30 PM »
deleted

12
like new Malossi Torque Driver 618317 $50 plus shipping OBO.

I purchased this part new from ScooterPartsCo.com for $94.97 plus $7.99 shipping. Includes all packaging and parts, never installed.

See link for full description:  http://scooterpartsco.com/kymco-parts/kymco-super-9-parts/malossi-torque-driver-kymco-genuine-honda-qmb139

If interested or have question, please send PM and I will respond ASAP!  Thanks for looking :-)

13
Super 9 / oil consumption
« on: November 14, 2015, 03:53:40 AM »
I adjusted my oil pump to increase oil consumption a little.  There are 3 index marks on the pump body and the swivel head tip has an aligning mark.  I set the aligning mark right at or a little past the 3rd index mark on the open side of the pump body.  Maintenance manual says:

"Reference tip alignment within 1mm of
index mark on open side is acceptable.
However, the aligning mark on the
control lever must never be on the
closed side of the index mark, otherwise
engine damage will occur because of
insufficient lubrication"

I think instructions mean aligning mark should be past the middle index mark by at least 1mm.  I think my oil pump is set to allow a little more oil flow and was wondering how much oil I was using.

I started keeping a record of how much gas and oil I was adding, and came up with some initial numbers:  gasoline consumption - approx 59 miles per gallon, and oil consumption - approx 2.9 oz per gallon of gasoline or 44 to 1.

I will keep records for awhile to verify consistent results.  Then maybe adjust oil pump to see how much it changes consumption.  I think almost 3 oz of oil per gallon of gasoline is probably about right with state of tune I am running, and almost 60 miles per gallon gasoline consumption is pretty good IMO.  Cheers


14
People 50 / how to replace throttle cable?
« on: October 23, 2015, 06:13:53 PM »
I noticed the throttle cable housing bent metal tube is attached to the top of the carb and doesn't want to disassemble.  Is there a trick?  I did a search and found where Art (master People 50 2T builder) couldn't get it off either.  My throttle cable is fine, but may need to replace it in the future, so just planning ahead.

I guess maybe have to buy new carb cap with new cable?  Any comments welcomed.  Cheers

15
People 50 / Malossi BBK for People 50 2T
« on: October 13, 2015, 03:02:21 AM »
I've had the kit for awhile (Malossi 319987 bought on sale), finally getting around to installing it.  I have been stalling because of concerns about several issues like getting the wrist pin circlip off the piston, chamfering the ports in the cylinder, and working on the engine while still in the scooter.  I now have another scooter running I can ride, so can take my time installing the kit, if I run into trouble.

Ideally, would remove the whole engine to work on, but appears a lot of work, so my plan is to just take off enough plastic to get to the engine.  Plastic came off easy.  This is 2nd time I have taken plastic off this scooter, so I am getting better at it.  I took off the seat and bucket, then the 2 side panels came off together.  Just 2 screws on the front, 2 nuts on the back, disconnect the wiring for the lights, and it all comes off.  Looks like enough room to access the engine OK now.  Then, I removed the pipe (already have Tecnigas Next-R pipe) and blower housing, all that came off easy.  Next, pull the head bolts, remove the head and cylinder.  The cylinder was stuck, so I used a rubber mallet to knock it loose, and slipped it off, exposing the piston/ rod.

Now the hard part, as I suspected the pesky little circlips are difficult to get off and you don't have the room to get at them easily.  I tried needle nose pliers 1st, but my pair wasn't up to the job.  So, then I popped it out with a small flat screwdriver.  I did everything wrong:  no safety glasses and didn't use anything to cover the open crankcase, so of course the circlip went flying.  I was lucky didn't hit my eye, and haven't found it yet.  I am hoping it's not in the crankcase, could be there, but probably not.  Just have to remove circlip on one side, then push out the wrist pin and remove the piston.  I worked on the scooter on the driveway, not smart, so I covered up the engine best I could and went inside to look at the new kit.

I will stop now for a break, will post more later.  Cheers


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