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Messages - rijder

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Quannon / quannon headlight aim adjustment
« on: August 12, 2017, 10:27:16 AM »
My Quannon 125 headlight was aimed too high. Neither the user manual nor the workshop manual have anything to say about adjusting headlight aim, but it turned out to be fairly easy. Each light (dipped beam on the left, main beam on the right) has an adjustment screw, circled in red in this picture:

(can't get the image insertion feature to work, picture at https://ibb.co/f3GFma)
This picture is taken from the top, the camera was just over the handlebars. Screw in to lower the beam, screw out to raise the beam. It's impossible to reach the adjustment screws from the top, but it's fairly easy with a 10mm wrench from the bottom, especially if you remove the black panel below the lights, which is secured by only two screws.




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Technical | How To / Re: replace engine mount bushings
« on: September 15, 2014, 05:04:11 PM »
Thanks! I'll give it a try within the next couple of weeks, and will report back. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear.

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Technical | How To / replace engine mount bushings
« on: September 15, 2014, 01:29:45 PM »
The engine mounts (bushings, silent blocks) on my People S250 have some free play - I can move the rear wheel sideways about half a centimeter. These are the bushings that are pressed into the top of the left and right engine casing. The bottom part of the engine hanger is connected to these bushings with a long bolt.

The bushings are not expensive, but how difficult is it to replace them? Is it going to take heat and a press to remove them from the engine casing, or can I just tap them out with a hammer? Which way do they come out, to the inside or to the outside?

If they come out easily I won't have to completely remove the engine - I can just lift the frame up a couple of centimeters and leave the carb and all the cables in place.

Any help will be highly appreciated.


4
People 250 / Re: Just bought People 250 S
« on: September 14, 2014, 06:34:51 PM »
I just bought an S250 myself. The odomotor shows 37000 kilometers but in reality, it's probably around 50000.

The engine runs and sounds great (no weird noises). I checked the valves and the inlet valve was spot on at 0.1mm, the exhaust valve had zero play though. The engine has been running like this for the last four years (I know the previous owner), apparently Kymcos are designed to run for ages with tight valves.

There's almost no rust, nothing on the brake disks, rear springs, or any of the fasteners. There's some minimal surface rust on some of the frame welds and on the engine hanger. The age of the scooter is most clearly visible from the plastics, i.e. lots of scratches, some cracks, and lots of the OEM black parkers are missing or have been replaced with other types of screws.

It needs a few hundred euros worth of parts (belt, brake pads, air filter, etc. etc.). Axy, what is your experience with the 19gram rollers? I was thinking of ordering 19 gram Dr.Pulley weights. The OEM weights are 21 or 20 grams, not sure. Does anybody have any experience with various roller weights? What's optimal?
Thanks!

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